Technically, the water management system is
included in the hardscape plan. Because the
‘New California Garden’ emphasizes water sustainability, we considered the management
of rainwater (February 2014) and irrigation water (March 2014) separately. You might want to review these posts before
continuing.
Introduction
‘Hardscape’ includes all the non-plant parts of the
garden design, from walls/fences, walkways and seating areas to water features
and garden art. Hardscape elements are often
added to a garden over time, without an over-arching plan guiding their
selection. Designing a new garden – or
remaking an old one – provides an opportunity to rethink the hardscape. And that can have important implications for
the overall appearance and functionality of the garden.
Next month (June 2014) we’ll consider garden
design; this month we focus on the functional aspects of hardscape. But it’s nearly impossible to divorce
functionality from aesthetics. As you
consider hardscape options, look at examples in your neighborhood, in books and
on the internet. Visit the local
building supply store and nursery to see what options are available. Take
pictures and notes about hardscape solutions you like. These will be invaluable when you finalize
the hardscape plans next month
You’ll notice that some materials and items appear formal
while others have an informal or casual appearance. Garden designs run the gamut from extremely
formal to very informal; choosing the right hardscape depends in part on knowing
where your garden falls along the continuum. Preference for formal or informal
style is highly personal. If you haven’t
determined your family’s preference yet, now would be a good time to do so: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/01/designing-your-new-california-garden-8.html
This month we’ll just develop a rough map of
hardscape features and their approximate locations in the garden. Next month we’ll develop a final map and
hardscape plan. Don’t be surprised if it
takes you several months to complete your hardscape plan. Hardscape encompasses a number of elements –
and there are functional and aesthetic considerations for each. Take as long as you need to develop a plan
that ‘feels right’. Remember, you are designing the framework for your garden
and that takes time.
This month’s exercise will involve a lot of thought
and research. So get out your Garden
Notebook, several clean copies of your site map and a pencil to sketch in possible
locations and make notations.
Fences, Walls, Screens and Gates
Homes in Western Los Angeles County tend to have
small yards. Close neighbors, pets and
less-than-optimal views mean that many local gardens use walls, fences, screens
and hedges to keep living things in/out – or block objectionable views. Your yard may already have a perimeter wall or
fence (located on/near the boundary between two properties). If so, you may need only to inspect and complete
necessary repairs.
If you don’t have a perimeter wall/fence – or if
you detest the current one – first determine whether you need one at all. Perhaps your front yard no longer needs to be
fenced for children or pets; or an aged hedge is past being functional or
attractive. If so, mark them for
removal. If a fence/wall is required, several
functional issues should be considered:
·
How strong/durable will it need to be?
·
How long will it need to last? Do you need a permanent fence, or just a
temporary screen until shrubbery/hedge has grown to size?
·
Does it need to be solid or could it allow for air
circulation (for example a hedge, lattice-work or other open-work
fence)?
·
What municipal or county codes regulate
height, setbacks and construction?
·
How much do you want to spend on the
project?
·
What type of materials work best with your house
design? Your neighborhood?
·
Do you want to install it yourself or have
it installed professionally?
·
How much maintenance will it require? Costs?
·
Do you want your fence/wall to be hardscape only, a planted hedge or some combination (shrubs
in front of a fence or vines on a lattice fence)
·
Do you want your fence/wall to stand out or blend
into the distance? We’ll
discuss how you can accomplish either goal, by using color, in next month’s
installment.
In addition to the garden perimeter, walls/fences
and hedges are useful as screens to block unsightly views. For example, a screen of shrubs might be placed
to hide views of a garden shed, trash barrels or the side of a neighbor’s
garage.
Hedges and screens can also be used to create
outdoor rooms or to guide one through the garden. As we’ll learn next month, breaking a yard up into smaller ‘rooms’ can
make even a small garden appear larger.
Look at your “Physical Features Map’ and ‘Use Areas Map’. Are there areas that would benefit from a
screen/hedge? If so, pencil them in.
Shown above are the final ‘Use Area/Bubble’ Map and
the ‘Physical Features’ Maps for 112 Willow Street. The
yard has a 5 ft. tall perimeter fence in the backyard – in good condition – and
2 ft. tall block walls on either side of the front yard. The homeowner is happy with these and chooses
to retain them.
Because the ‘Maintenance’ and ‘Quiet Meditation’
areas are located near the front yard, the homeowners consider adding short
fence/gates between the house/garage and the front walls for privacy and
access. They pencil them in, with a
note to think about them over the next month.
Sheds, Storage Buildings and Containers
Many gardens require outdoor storage. Here are some things you’ll want to consider
when choosing a shed/storage building:
- How
big will it need to be? If you
have the space, consider going a little bit larger than current needs
require
- How
tall? Will
it need to contain long-handled garden tools? Other tall equipment like
umbrellas, ladders, etc.)?
- What
materials should it be made of? Wood looks nice but will need painting;
metal is durable (in our climate); sturdy plastic sheds are inexpensive and
low maintenance.
- Location:
should be handy, but not where it’s an eyesore or impedes traffic flow
- Will
it be custom-built or pre-fabricated/ready-to-assemble?
- Will
you build/assemble it or will you hire a professional?
The gardeners at 112 Willow St. are scaling back,
replacing an old 8 x 10 ft metal shed with something smaller. They’ve cleaned out the old shed, but still need space for a reel mower (to cut the
new lawn) long-handled garden tools (rakes/shovels, etc.), potting supplies
(pots; soil), irrigation supplies, fertilizers, limited pesticides and the
patio seat cushions (during the rainy season).
Placement of the storage shed(s) is easy – it
belongs in the Maintenance Area. The
best place appears to be along the back of the garage. This area can accommodate a shed(s) up to 10
ft long (total), as wide as 3 ft and as tall as needed. The gardeners do need to consider where the
trash cans will go in the Maintenance Area.
There are three (garbage, recyclables and green waste – each 2.5 ft x 2.5
ft) and they may impact how much space is available for the shed(s).
After careful consideration, the homeowners realize
that the green waste and trash containers could be stored along the perimeter
wall near the garden; this would be handy for daily use and for trash day. The recycle container could fit next to the
new shed(s), leaving space for a 6-7 ft x 3 ft shed. The gardeners also realize that the patio
seat cushions might be stored on the patio – perhaps in a low storage container
that doubles as a table. They
pencil in the rough location of containers and shed(s).
The storage sheds won’t need to be particularly
attractive; for the most part they’re hidden from view. The homeowners will need to decide how much they want to spend, the size needed
and whether they want a pre-fab/ready-to-assemble or not. They explore the possibilities on-line and
at the local building supply stores.
Patios and Seating Areas
In S. California we’re fortunate to be able to
‘live outdoors’ much of the year. As the
climate becomes hotter, shady outdoor living areas will become more important. We’ll likely be doing even more outdoor living.
112 Willow Street is fortunate to have a screened
patio with a roof and concrete floor. It’s
shaded in summer and protected from rain in winter. The family uses it for sitting, playing,
parties and outdoor dining. They won’t
need to do anything to the patio.
If you don’t have a patio/seating area, you may
want to build or create one. In fact, it
may already appear on your ‘Functional Area/Bubble’ map. Here are some things to consider:
- What
activities do you want to do there? Placement, construction and furnishings
will be different for a routinely-used al
fresco dining area vs. an area used for occasional seating.
- What
is the most convenient placement? This is particularly important for
regularly used areas. An outdoor
dining/entertaining area should be near the kitchen and living room if
possible. A sauna/hot tub area
might be located off the master bedroom or bath.
- Will
you need outdoor cooking facilities? electricity? heaters for winter? access to drinking or irrigation water?
- How
will you provide shade? A roof, ramada, retractable awning or a
well-placed tree are all possibilities. More attractive shade options are
coming on the market all the time. You can see an number of these on the
internet. Remember, it’s going to
be hotter in the future – shade will be a must!
- How
flat and firm must the surface be? Dining areas and those with heavy foot
travel usually require a hard, flat surface; other areas are fine with
grass, crushed rock, decomposed granite or even mulch.
The new garden at 112 Willow St. has two informal
seating areas: one designated the ‘Shady Seating Area’ under the tree and other
in the ‘Quiet/Meditation’ area. Neither
of these are high foot travel areas; mulch, a low walk-on ground cover or
crushed rock could be used in these places.
Both areas are already shady – that was part of the logic in locating
them where they are. The homeowners will
think about the type of seating appropriate for each area and explore options
on-line and at local public gardens.
Planters, Raised Beds and Containers
Planters, raised beds and containers (pots; window boxes;
etc.) can make a garden more attractive and emphasize a garden’s theme. They can also improve functionality. For example, planters can be used to create a
level planting surface on gentle slopes or to provide better drainage. Raised beds make garden tasks easier for young
gardeners or those with physical limitations.
Most California gardeners are well acquainted with
planters; they are common in local gardens.
Traditional planters made of brick or concrete are found in many older gardens
and can still be a good idea. In more
natural gardens rocks, cut stone, ‘urbanite’ (chunks of concrete paving) or fabricated
‘stones’ make natural-looking planters and raised beds. Planters – or even slightly raised, edged beds
– can also provide a formal look if that is desired.
Raised beds make excellent sense in a vegetable
garden. They concentrate water and
nutrients, keep vegetables clean and help dissuade slugs and snails. They also make it easier to plant, weed,
provide plant support and harvest the crops.
Raised beds can be made to a convenient height – even allow the gardener
to work from a seat or wheelchair.
Raised beds are becoming popular in many parts of the country, including
California. You might want to consider them for vegetables
or flowers.
The garden at 112 Willow St. will have a vegetable
garden with raised beds. The area is 14 ft. by 24 ft. In March we considered several layouts for
the vegetable garden; the gardeners have settled on the one below.
The gardeners explore plans for raised beds on-line
and learn that 3 ft. is the best width to provide easy access. There
is room for four beds, each 3 ft. x 8 ft., with 2 ½ ft. walkways; there’s still
space for water storage container(s) at the north end of the garden as planned.
The gardeners have many choices of design and
materials, ranging from fairly inexpensive, home-made models to more expensive
purchased kits or custom-built raised beds. Some kits are available locally – others will
have to be ordered from gardener’s supply companies. To learn more, there are extensive resources
on-line. Good how-to books are available
at building supply stores and your local library.
Walkways, Paths and Driveways
Once the big hardscape elements (above) are located,
the next step is planning the walkways, paths and driveways. Most S. California homes already have a
driveway, so you’ll likely not be changing its location. However, you may want to consider making it
more permeable.
Walkways and paths are often updated when a garden
is re-designed. Whether you’re starting new
or re-modeling an established garden, consider motor and foot traffic
carefully. In most small yards, motor
vehicle traffic is confined to the driveway.
However families with boats or other parked vehicles – or jobs/hobbies needing
vehicular access – require careful planning.
Foot traffic also requires thoughtful
deliberation. Walkways in the wrong
place, areas that are inaccessible and paths poorly constructed are not just
annoying, they can be dangerous! Look
closely at your hardscape map. What
areas will receive the most foot traffic?
What is the easiest route? Will
you need to wheel garden equipment or trash cans from one place to another? Will you need occasional access into planted
areas for garden maintenance? Do you
want to direct foot traffic away from delicate plants or to a water feature or
statue?
We suggest getting out in the garden and walking
the possible pathways. You can even
locate major hardscape areas with string to make the exercise more real. Remember, if you’re converting lawn areas to
something planted, you’ll now need to provide access across those areas. We sometimes forget how often we walk across our
lawns!
Municipal or county codes usually cover the size
and construction of major walkways, such as the walkway to the front door. They may also specify requirements for other
walkways and paths. Neighborhood
covenants sometimes also limit the materials and colors permissible. Be sure that you – or your contractor – know
and follow the regulations.
The
garden at 112 Willow St. won’t need much in the way of new pathways. The vegetable garden, utility area and
driveway area will be covered in either mulch (vegetable garden) or crushed
rock. The crushed rock is a better
choice than gravel for the Utility Area and driveway. It can be compacted to provides a hard level
surface for walking and rolling trash bins across. The ‘New Lawn’ provides access to most of the
backyard and the ‘Butterfly Garden’ is a narrow bed that can be accessed
easily.
The
area leading to the ‘Quiet/meditation Area’ will be planted, so some sort of
pathway is needed. This is will not be a
highly traveled path, but the area may be damp in winter. The gardeners plan to use large (2 or 2 ½ ft)
pavers to create a semi-formal path. They
will visit their building or landscape supply store to see what options are
available.
Arbors, Arches and Pergolas
Arches, arbors and pergolas are sometimes employed
in S. California gardens. They are not
for every garden, but can be effective in certain situations. An arch can be used as an entrance to the
garden or to areas that are treated as separate garden ‘rooms’. Arbors and pergolas provide shade and are a
good place to grow grapes, native Honeysuckles and other fragrant vines. They often include seating areas.
There are dozens of designs, plans and pictures of
arbors, arches and pergolas on the internet.
If interested, we suggest you start there. These are strong design
elements. They may dominate the garden landscape
and are often used to make a large garden seem smaller. If you have a small yard – and still want to
include these elements - we suggest you keep them small, darker colored and in proper
scale for the size of your yard.
Trellises
Trellises are often used to provide support for
vines and trailers, although lattice and other trellises are being used alone
in contemporary gardens. They can be
used to create shade, cover a wall/fence or provide a visual screen. They are particularly useful in narrow
spaces or as stand-alone elements in the interior of the garden. Things to consider when choosing a trellis:
- Strength: is
it strong enough to provide support for a mature vine?
- Attachment:
where/how will you attach it? Will
the attachment be strong enough
- Design : trellises
can be a strong design element.
Choose design, materials and color to complement the garden design
- Materials
: there are many choices; consider appearance, cost and maintenance
As discussed in previous episodes, the side of the
neighbor’s garage is an eyesore in the 112 Willow garden. It presents a design challenge for the
Quiet/Meditation area, which is narrow and fairly shady. After considering several options, the
gardeners decide to grow a vine screen to block the view. They can either erect a free-standing trellis
or attach one to the existing wall.
Local building code specifies that fences/walls can be no taller than 6
ft. But an open lattice trellis could
be taller – perhaps 7-8 ft – and nicely block the view. They pencil in a trellis that will conceal
the neighbor’s garage.
For more inspiration on trellises, search the
internet and visit well-stocked local garden stores. Trellises can be beautiful and
functional. They have come back in style
for a reason – they are useful in contemporary gardens.
Mulch and Non-living Groundcovers
A mulch is simply a protective
layer of materials placed over the soil, primarily to modify the effects of the
local climate. Mulching is an integral
part of water-wise gardening; but mulches are used for a number of other
purposes including heat regulation and aesthetics.
Like all other types of hardscape, mulch should be suited
to the garden conditions. These
conditions certainly include the types of plants you plan to grow. But the conditions also include aesthetic and
even cultural considerations. For
example, many mulches are available in different colors and textures. You need to consider which is best for the
look of your garden. For example, if
your garden design has a Mediterranean/Italian influence, you may want to use
an appropriate crushed gravel mulch – at least in part of the garden. You may even want to use mulches in areas of
your garden that have no plants at all!
On the other hand, a ‘natural’ garden with Coastal Sage Scrub plants
will look best – and thrive with – a thin mulch of wood chippings.
The best advice when considering mulches is to look at
various materials on-line, then go to a local building supply source and see the
materials first hand. You may be able to
take small samples of the materials how to see how you like them in the garden.
Water Features
Water features are decorative hardscape elements
that feature the sight, sound and sometimes the feel of water. Included in the category are decorative ponds
and pools, waterfalls, constructed ‘streams’ with re-circulating water and
fountains of all sizes and types. Water features are treasured in hot climates because
they give the illusion of coolness. As our
climate heats up, you may want to consider a small, water-wise water feature.
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| Solar-powered bubbler fountain - Mother Nature's Backyard |
As with arches and pergolas, scale is important. A large, ornate fountain or massive waterfall
will look out of place in a small garden. But even the tiniest garden can include a
small fountain – even a miniature waterfall – to give as sense of cool. In Mother Nature’s Backyard, we constructed a
simple bubbler fountain from two large glazed pots. The scale is right, the pump is solar
powered, and the fountain is quite water-wise (requires re-filling with 1
gallon a week during the hottest weather). People are instinctively drawn to the
fountain. Birds love to drink and bath
in the splash; some even fly through the water in hot weather!
In S. California, large gardening/home improvement stores
carry a selection of ready-made fountains; most are ready to place, fill and plug in the pump. Most re-circulating fountains require an
electrical outlet; but solar-powered pumps and fountains are available
on-line. Local nurseries also stock
fountains and can suggest local businesses that will create custom fountains,
pools and other water features.
Garden Art
Garden art is very personal. Art is an important part of some gardens – in
fact some gardens are built to house a treasured sculpture, mosaic or other
piece of art. Other gardens have no art
at all. The best gardens follow the old
adage – less is more.
Included in ‘garden art’ are statues, other
sculpture, sundials, decorative birdbaths, mosaics and decorative tiles, pebble
mosaics, decorative signage or light fixtures and more. Garden art should reflect your taste; it may
also reflect your cultural or family heritage.
Garden art can provide just the right accent to make a garden appear
authentic, alive, unique.
Garden ‘art’ can include artful objects from
nature: an attractive boulder, interestingly shaped log or branch, shells or
pebbles, other found objects. Japanese
gardens are well known for their use of natural objects in gardens.
Garden art can be invaluable for difficult parts of
the garden, such as areas of deep shade where nothing will grow. A light-colored statue can be just the ticket
– lovely, water-wise and low maintenance.
You needn’t have a specific piece in mind when you
design the garden. In fact, sometimes it’s
best to wait and see what the garden itself requires. Leave room for a sundial or small statue if
you wish. You’ll ultimately come across the
perfect piece for the space.
We
value your comments (below). You can
also contact us directly at mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com.
