Preparing for (El Niño?) Winter Rains

 

Sustainable gardening in Southern California means coping with highly variable precipitation. This month, we’re continuing to manage the effects of an epic four-year drought.  And now scientists are cautiously predicting an El Niño winter, with higher than average amounts of rainfall.  Yup, that’s gardening in our capricious mediterranean climate!

The U.S. Weather Service has official precipitation records for the L.A. Civic Center going back to the 1877-78 season (the water year runs from July 1-June 30) [1].  Since then, the average yearly rainfall is 14.93 inches [1, 2].  During the 138 year period, extreme precipitation years (both high and low) have become more common. 

 

 

The graph above shows the number of years below and above the average for two 25-year periods: 1890-1915 and 1990-2015.  One thing is clear: there are more ‘extreme precipitation’ years (both below and above average) in the current period.   The last 25 years had 10 years with a deficit of at least 5 inches.  This compares to 6 such years in the earlier period.  But there were also 6 years with 5 or more inches over the average (compared to two from 1890-1915).  So we need to prepare not only for more ‘drought’ years, but also for more ‘wet’ ones.

We gave you some tips for surviving the drought (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2015/07/surviving-drought.html) and summer planning last month: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2015/07/summer-time-for-garden-planning.html.   This month we suggest ways to prepare for this winter’s rains - El Niño or not. 

First, a word of caution. Mother Nature’s Backyard is situated in the flat lowlands of the Los Angeles Basin.  Our advice is most applicable to gardeners in similar areas. If you live in the foothills, and particularly if you live along a creek, in areas below recent burns, or those prone to landslides, you may need to take additional precautions.  Consult your local municipality for advice on preparing for an El Niño winter.  Recent ocean temperatures indicate that this may be a very wet winter.  Prepare now if you live in a flood-prone area!

The rest of us still have several months to make our gardens both more water-wise and more El Niño proof.   Some of the suggestions below may not be applicable.  But we hope you’ll adapt some for use in your garden – and get moving on making them happen.  The time is now to prepare for the winter rains.

1.   Consider decreasing the area covered with impervious materials. Traditional walkways, driveways, concrete or mortared patios all are impervious surfaces. Water runs off them and, very often, into the storm drains and out to the ocean.   That’s one reason why urban areas like the Los Angeles basin need such extensive storm drain systems.

El Niño years can be tricky.  Whether they bring deluges or persistent showers, excess water can become a challenge for local gardens.  Fortunately, you can take several steps to prevent/decrease the effects of running or standing water in your garden. 

One strategy is to increase the percentage of the yard that can infiltrate rain water.  This allows more water to infiltrate in place, rather than aggregate in ponds or rivulets.  We discuss several infiltration options below (see suggestions 2 & 3).  Another idea is to simply convert impermeable surfaces to permeable ones.  This helps control excess rain water and also increases the amount of irrigation water available to plants (by decreasing summer run-off).

Permeable walkways in Mother Nature's Backyard

 

There are many ways to make walkways, patios and driveways more permeable (see the links below).  Some, like replacing your driveway with permeable paving materials, require more time, skill and money.  Others, like converting an old concrete patio or walkway into something more pervious, can be done quite economically, if you’re able to do most of the work yourself.  For ideas on permeable surfaces see:

·         http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/06/harvesting-rain-permeable-paths-patios.html.

·        http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/permeable-surfaces

 

2.   Use the rainwater that falls on your roof.  Your roof is a large rain collector. Does the water from your roof end up in the storm drains?  Does it make a muddy mess around your house, threatening the health of your foundation? If so, now is the time to install gutters and harvest rain from your roof.  

A rain chain is another way to direct water from a gutter

The advantage of gutters is that they let you direct the water collected by your roof. You can then store the water (see #4, below) or direct it to places where it can be infiltrated into the ground (#3, below).   For more information on rain gutters see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/02/harvesting-rain-gutters-downspouts-and.html.  

3.   Infiltrate more water into the ground using a rain garden, dry well or dry swale. Water from impermeable surfaces must go somewhere. In the past, most of it has ended up in the ocean.  But each year, more California gardeners are installing simple infiltration ‘devices’ in their gardens. 

While getting rid of one problem (excess runoff), these devices also solve another: providing deep water resources for trees and shrubs.   They allow water to infiltrate into the ground, replenishing the ground water.  Trees, shrubs and other long-rooted plants can then access this ground water well into summer.

If you have an area where rain water puddles, you may want to consider a simple infiltration device like a dry well.  These take little space, are relatively easy to install, and often solve the puddling issue admirably.  They can be used in unplanted areas, making them a good option for patios and utility areas covered in gravel mulch.   See the links below for more information.

Rain garden - Mother Nature's Backyard garden

 

Rain gardens and infiltration swales are the perfect complement to rain gutters, infiltrating the water from a roof. While no two rain gardens or dry swales are the same, they all slow or store water briefly, allowing it to percolate into the ground.   They can be planted or not; they can be disguised as a natural-looking dry creek. Some are used as seating or play areas in the dry season.  And they allow you to use plants that like a little extra winter water, even if the rest of your garden is quite water-wise. 

Rain gardens, dry wells and dry (infiltration) swales are easy to incorporate when you are installing a new garden (or re-doing an old one).    Like all hardscape features, they’re easiest to install before a garden is planted.  If you’re removing your lawn, now is a good time to consider whether a dry well, rain garden or dry swale is right for your garden. Here are some good resources:

·        http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/03/harvesting-rain-rain-gardens-and.html.

·        http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/infiltration-gardens-2015

·        Plants for Rain Gardens and Vegetated Swales: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/rain-gardensswales

4.   Consider storing some water.  People in dry climates around the world store rainwater for use in dry periods.  The regulations on rain water collection/storage are changing, so check your local municipality to learn what is legal.  Nearly all S. California municipalities permit you to store water in rain barrels, to be used for watering your garden (not for drinking).

As rain water storage gains popularity, more options are available locally and on-line. Fifty gallon plastic rain barrels are sold at many hardware and do-it-yourself stores.   Some water companies give them away for free or at low cost.   And larger storage containers are also becoming more common. For more on rain water storage see:  http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/06/harvesting-rainwater-rain-barrels.html

As water becomes more scarce (and costly) it’s silly to not take full advantage of the rain that falls on your property. California law is now clear – you own that water!  Don’t let it slip away.   Act now to use your clean, free rain water this winter.

5.   Use the ‘high’ and ‘low’ spots in the garden to best advantage.  Sandy soils dry out quickly in summer; clay soils tend to hold water, creating wet spots in winter.    Most gardens have areas that are ‘high and dry’ and others that are low and moist.  If not, it’s relatively easy to create a bit of garden topography with low berms (artful mounds) and shallow swales. 

Whether your soil drains quickly, slowly, or somewhere in between, creating modest garden topography has several advantages.  First, a planted berm is often an excellent way screen short, unsightly views (for example to block views of parked vehicles).  Berms and swales can also be used to direct and infiltrate rain water.  And they add interest to a flat garden.

Another benefit of berms and swales is that they allow you to grow plants with water requirements slightly different from those available in the rest of your garden.  For example, plants that hate wet feet can be grown at the top of a berm (driest place). Plants that like a little extra water often do well at the bottom of a slope or swale.  For more on creating garden topography see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/12/getting-to-know-your-gardens-soil.html.

 

Fresh organic mulch: Garden of Dreams, CSU Dominguez Hills

6.   Consider replenishing mulch a little early this year. Newly laid mulch is  more vulnerable to washing away.  If you use mulch, consider doing your fall mulching in late summer or early fall.  That will allow the mulch to compact a bit before the winter rains.  For more on mulches see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/07/understanding-mulches_23.html

7.   Use the weather forecast to plan fall pruning.  Fall pruning is best done after the fall heat waves but before the winter rains.  Predicting the best time to prune can be a challenge.  Consult the long term weather forecast when scheduling fall pruning.  Don’t forget to consider the birds and other creatures that rely on your garden for food.  For more on the topic of fall pruning see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/11/maintaining-your-new-california-garden_15.html

Fall pruning - Mother Nature's Backyard garden

8.   Choose trees, shrubs and vines that can take both drought and excess rain. Global climate change makes planning for the future a bit more challenging.  We’re already seeing some effects: hotter temperatures overall; more temperature and precipitation extremes; changes in the timing of the seasons.  The recent drought is just a taste of things to come.

Trees, vines and large shrubs are an excellent way to provide shade. In fact, all local gardeners should be planting now for future shade.  With planning and proper care, large shade plants can live for many years.  But choosing the best adapted plants is something we’re just beginning to grapple with. 

In Southern California, our best choices will need to withstand both the periodic droughts and periods of greater precipitation. Only certain plants are so adapted. California native trees and shrubs are better candidates than those from the tropics or other regions with plenty of precipitation.  But what native trees and shrubs will be able to take both the heat and the precipitation extremes?  We have some ideas and will discuss that topic next month (September, 2015).

 

Planting Mother Nature's Backyard garden

9.   Take advantage of winter rains for planting.  Winter is the easiest time to plant in lowland Southern California.  Soils are well-moistened and the temperatures cooler.  That’s why California native gardens are traditionally planted in late fall or winter.

Winter is not only the easiest time to plant, but it’s also the best for plant health.  California native plants are adapted to our seasonal weather patterns.  Many are dormant (or at least slow growing) by late summer or fall; they are primed to grow with the winter/spring rains.  Plant them in late fall/winter and they will establish themselves right on schedule. 

But plant California native plants in summer and they’ll be ‘seasonally confused’; the heat says ‘it’s time to go dormant’ while the irrigation water says ‘it’s time to grow’.  In fact, summer planting is difficult not only for the plants, but also for the gardener.   Planting with the rains is yet another example of working with Mother Nature.  Gardening elders have learned – often through painful experience - that working with Mother Nature is better than trying to work against her!

An El Niño year can be an excellent opportunity to start a new garden – or plant trees and large shrubs.  So do your summer planning now.  Figure out what plants you need.  Plan to buy required plants at the fall plant sales, and plant them with the winter rains.

Rainy day - Mother Nature's Backyard garden

10. Enjoy today’s weather, whatever it may be.  The news on climate change can be downright depressing.  The best antidote is to sit in your garden.  Enjoy the hot, dry days of late summer.  Watch the abundant life that enlivens California gardens this time of year.  Enjoy the balmy evenings – and vow to plant more silvery-colored shrubs to enhance your twilight garden.  

Look forward to the cool rains.  Sit out in your covered patio and smell the rain.  Listen to the sounds of a rainy day in your garden.  Watch the birds and other creatures – what are they doing on a rainy day?  Put your potted plants out to benefit from the good, pure water.

Those of us in California are blessed with a wonderful climate, with seasons that promise beauty and interest every month of the year (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/09/seasons-in-southern-california-garden.html).  But where ever you may garden, there’s something wonderful in your garden right now.  So, enjoy today’s weather – whatever it may be.

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1. http://www.laalmanac.com/weather/we13.htm
2. http://www.wunderground.com/blog/weatherhistorian/show.html

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your gardening questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

Maintaining Your New California Garden: Life-friendly Fall Pruning

 

Mother Nature's Backyard in November: illustrating life-friendly fall pruning.

Late fall and early winter are important pruning times in Southern California gardens.  Many California native plants, particularly those from drier low elevations, are dormant from late summer until the winter rains.  That’s why fall has traditionally been a major pruning season.  To get a better sense of the seasons in S. California gardens see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/09/seasons-in-southern-california-garden.html.

California is known for weather that varies dramatically from year-to-year.  Seasonal effects are only somewhat predictable; thus the timing of ‘fall pruning’ needs to be flexible and based on conditions at hand.  There is no ‘one size fits all years’ rule for when to do fall pruning. 

Several considerations should influence the timing of fall pruning.  First, the wise gardener   respects the plants’ health and welfare. Pruning – even necessary pruning – is stressful; temperatures should be cool enough that plants aren’t unduly traumatized.   Wait until the temperatures are ‘fall like’ – and don’t prune when hot Santa Ana winds are predicted.

On the other hand, pruning is best done before the yearly growth spurt.  Thus, pruning should be completed before winter rains commence in earnest – usually late November or December under current climatic conditions.    Dry season pruning also discourages fungal infections, which can spread through pruning cuts in damp weather. 

Another factor impacting fall pruning is the desire to ‘tidy up the garden’.  This is a noble aim – most of us enjoy a garden that’s at least somewhat neat and tidy.  By the end of summer, some plants are beginning to look a little raggedy.  Many native plants have completed their flowering (or will do so in early fall).  The temptation is to dead-head those spent flowers – or to commence pruning in earnest – all in the interest of garden aesthetics (or the neighbor’s good graces).

Garden of Dreams (CSU Dominguez Hills) - some plants are left un-pruned until winter
 to provide food for birds

Which brings us to a third consideration for fall pruning: preserving habitat.  Birds, insects and other creatures depend on fruits (including dried), seeds and insects found on fall plants.  Your fall garden is an important source of food; concern for habitat should also figure in the timing of fall pruning.

If you garden in S. California, you’ve no doubt noticed that different birds visit your garden in fall and winter.   California is an important stop for birds migrating along the Pacific Flyway – a giant bird ‘freeway’ in the sky.  Some birds just stop to refuel; others spend the winter in our delightful wild-lands and gardens.  Either way, these birds – along with resident birds and insects – require food in fall and winter.

The past two years have been particularly hard on California wildlife.  Even with decreased water use, our gardens are still wetter and more productive than the drought stressed wild-lands.  That’s why we’ve seen more wildlife than ever in our gardens this year.  

From native pollinators and butterflies to large animals like deer, creatures are desperate for food and water - and so they come to our gardens.  As wild-lands suffer from climatic extremes, our gardens play an increasingly important role in providing food, shelter and water.  In all years – but particularly in years when food is scarce – we need to manage our fall pruning responsibly. 

 

Buckwheats are left un-pruned until late fall to provide food for birds.

But how can we manage our gardens to meet all these considerations?  Here are a few suggestions for Southern California gardeners (and others with similar climates):

1. Wait a bit later to begin your fall pruning.   Instead of beginning in early October, wait until November if possible.  There are usually dry periods, even in December, when pruning can be completed.
2. Don’t prune all your plants at once.  Plants in the Sunflower family, the Buckwheats, Sages (Salvias), plants with fruits/berries and summer-flowering wildflowers like Evening primroses are important sources of fall food.  Wait until the seeds are mostly gone before pruning them.  If you must prune, at least put the seed heads on your bird feeder.

Here are some plants to consider pruning later:

·        Annual sunflower, California sagebrush (Artemisia) and other summer blooming asters/sunflowers

·        Fall-blooming shrubs with fluffy seeds like the golden bushes, Pluchea, Goldenrods (Solidago species) and Baccharis species

·        All of the native buckwheats

·        Milkweeds (if still green)

·        Any other summer-blooming or fruiting plant that still has food value

Watch your garden; if birds are visiting a plant, they may be eating insects.  Postpone pruning it as well.    Prune other plants to make your garden look neat – save the food plants for last.

3. Prune selectively.  Some plants – particularly those in public places – need to be pruned to keep the neighbors happy. No one likes a front yard that looks abandoned!  So prune the most visible plants first, leaving those that are less visible for later.  We sometimes prune the visible half of a Salvia (for example, that nearest a walkway) in late summer or fall, leaving the back half for later.  That achieves both aims: neatness and food.
4. Don’t prune all of a species at once.  If you have several golden bushes, prune some of them and leave others to prune later.
5. Educate and encourage your neighbors.  Post simple signs that explain why you’re retaining some plants, un-pruned for now, as food for birds and butterflies. Most will respect your decision to prune responsibly.  Some may even change their own practices, based on your gentle persuasion.

 



Lesser Goldfinch eating Annual sunflower seeds.

 

 

For more on pruning California native plants see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/11/pruning-common-native-plants.html

 

We value your comments (below).    You can also contact us directly at mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com.

 

 

 

 

 

Garden Crafts: Making a Grapevine Wreath

Simple wreath made from grapevines

There’s nothing like the satisfaction that comes from using garden products to make items that are useful and attractive.  In previous posts we’ve talked about pressing flowers, using plant trimmings for natural dyes and making garden potpourri (search ‘garden crafts’ on this blog).   Another easy craft is making a grapevine wreath.  Some of you may already have trimmed back your grapevines.  If not, you still have time to make a grapevine wreath this winter (at least in our mild S. California climate).

Making a grapevine wreath is easy once you get used to handing the vines.  You’ll need 20 to 30 or more lengths of grapevine.  Cut them as long as you can – about 4-8 ft. is easiest to work with.  Be sure to choose vines that are still flexible (green vines are fine).  Vines no thicker than your little finger at the broadest are best.   You can see the vines we trimmed from our native wild grape (Vitis girdiana) below.   You’ll need to use the vines on the day you cut them, before they dry out.

 

 

Choose 5 or 6 of the thickest vines to form the foundation of the wreath.  Lay the vines out straight, removing any leaves or side branches.    Gently bend the bundle of vines into a circle of the desired size.  We suggest about 12 inches across for a small wreath and 18 or 20 inches for a larger wreath.   Tie the circle with stout string to hold the shape (see picture below).   

Continue to bend the bundle into a circle, tying as needed to hold the vines in place.  You’ll remove the string once the vine dries, so don’t worry about how it looks.  Now you have the foundation for your wreath.  The foundation may not be perfectly round, but don’t worry about shape too much; the shape will improve as you add more vines.  And you can even tweak the final shape just prior to drying.

 

 

Take another vine and tuck the thicker end firmly into the foundation.  Then wrap the new vine around the foundation, making about 6-8 wraps around the circle (see photo above).   Wrap until you reach the end of the vine, then tuck the end in.   Continue wrapping with the additional vines, starting each new vine at a different place around the foundation.  Try to alternate the direction of the wraps – starting clockwise with one vine, then counter-clockwise with the next – to give an even shape.

 

 

 

When you’ve used all your vines – or when the wreath is pleasingly full – you are almost done.  Don’t worry about the odd ends that stick out.  Some will disappear in the drying process, and the rest can be clipped off when dry.   If your wreath is not completely round, you can tie it into round with a string (see above).  Hang your wreath to dry in a cool, dry place.  It will probably take about 2 weeks to dry. 

 

Once dry, you can clip loose ends if needed.  Remove the string – the wreath should hold its shape if fully dry.   You can spray your wreath with a thin coat of clear spray varnish or use it as is.  We’ll suggest some ways to use your wreath during the next year (2014).

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We welcome your comments, below.  If you have questions, please e- mail us at: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

Garden Crafts: Making Potpourri from Scented Garden Trimmings

Southern California is blessed with a climate that’s perfect for plants with scented foliage.  Our native sages (Salvias), mints, roses, California Sagebrush and other Artemisias make our gardens a treat for the nose as well as the eye.  Add scented plants from other mediterranean climates – rosemary, thyme, lavender and others – and you’ve got a nice smelling garden.   Consider a plant’s aroma when choosing new plants for your garden.  You’ll be glad you did!

Fall is the best time to prune many scented plants; and pruning can produce lots of trimmings, even in a small garden.  Consider using your scented trimmings for garden crafts that produce products unique to your garden.  One of the easiest – and fun - is making potpourri.  It’s a good activity to do with children (in small groups).  You might even want to host a ‘potpourri party’, where guests bring scented materials from their gardens to share.   Making potpourri brings out the creative side in all of us.

A potpourri is simply a mixture of scented plant materials.  Most people think of natural room fresheners when they hear the word potpourri.  But people in times past – and thrifty gardeners now – use potpourri for much more.  Fill a small cloth bag with potpourri to make a sachet to scent a closet or clothes drawer.  Use a pretty fabric, tie the sachet with a ribbon and you’ve got a unique, inexpensive gift.   A cloth bag filled with potpourri can also be used to scent a bath or shower (just hang the bag under the running water).  You can use a cloth re-useable tea bag to hold the potpourri.  Potpourri can even be used under your pillowcase to scent your pillow.  Use a soothing sage, lavender or mint for a restful sleep

Making potpourri is easy.  But like anything involving scent, it allows lots of room for creative expression.  No two people smell a scent exactly the same.  We all have memories associated with particular scents.  And some scents just make us feel relaxed or energized.  So have fun combining scents to get just the right combination.

Here’s how to make your own unique blend of garden potpourri:

1. Choose your plant materials.  A number of plant materials that can be used as a base for potpourri.  Choose any scented plant you like as long as it is not toxic.  Here are a few possibilities:
• Native plants (leaves/stems): Sages (Salvias) all have slightly different scents (we particularly like Black, Purple, Cleveland and ‘Winifred Gilman’ Sages) ; California Sagebrush (Artemisia californica) and Mugwort (Artemisia douglasii); plants in the Mint family (Wild Mint – Mentha arvensis; Hummingbird Sage - Salvia spathacea; Fragrant Pitchersage -Lepechinia fragrans)
• Other scented shrubs/herbs: Leaves/stems of Rosemary, Thyme, Lemon Verbena, Lavender, scented Geraniums, Mints, etc.; flowers like scented Rose petals, Carnations, Orange blossoms, etc.
• Citrus fruits or apples: use thinly sliced citrus peel, or cut entire fruit in very thin slices before drying
2. Dry the plant materials.  It’s very important that plant materials are completely dry, otherwise the potpourri may mildew.  Lay larger materials out to dry outdoors.  Turn them every few days until they are dry.  Or bundle the stems, tie and hang up to dry on a patio or porch.   Flowers, apple and citrus slices can be sun dried, dried on cookie sheets in a warm (less than 130°F) oven or dried in a food dehydrator.  Check flowers often – they can dry quickly.
3. Prepare the plant materials.   Wearing leather gloves, strip leaves off woody stems of Salvias and shrubby Mediterranean herbs. Place each type of material in a separate plastic bag, seal & label with plant name and date.  For California Sagebrush, it’s easiest to just cut the ends of stems into pieces. Other materials need no additional preparation after drying.  The leaves simply drop off some dried materials.  Dried flowers and fruits are ready to be bagged as is.   It’s important to bag your materials as soon as they are dry to retain their fragrance.
4. Choose a primary scent: Now the real fun begins.  Making a good potpourri is a bit like making a perfume.  You begin by choosing your primary scent.  This should be an aroma that you really enjoy.  It can be a strong/spicy scent (native California and Mediterranean herbs) or something more mild, but with a fairly strong scent: rose petals, mint, and other garden herbs.  This is going to be the primary scent for your potpourri, so take a good handful or two and place it in a plastic bag.   We suggest that you write down the names of your ingredients on a piece of paper.  You may even want to weigh/measure your ingredients so you can duplicate your ‘signature potpourri’ in the future.
5. Choose 1 to 2 secondary scents:   The secondary scents should complement your primary scent.   If your primary scent is mild, choose mild secondaries so you don’t overpower the primary scent.  Some good secondaries include any of the primaries (in smaller amounts), the dried fruits, dried flowers, mints and perennial garden herbs.  If you have scented oils or single-scent perfumes (lavender; rose; gardenia; etc.) you can also use these as secondary scents.  Just place a little bit on a cotton ball or cotton pad – a little goes a long way – and place it in your bag of potpourri. Remember to write the materials on your ‘ingredients list’.
6. Close the potpourri bag, shake it well, and let it sit for a half hour or more.  This will let the flavors mingle. 
7. Open the bag and smell your potpourri.   You may decide that your potpourri is just right.  If so, it’s ready to use – and you can create another blend.  If you decide that your potpourri still needs a little something, smell the secondary scents again; one or more of them may be just what you need.  You can also use a little bit of dried spices from your kitchen cupboard.   You can add up to 4 additional (tertiary) scents.
8. Once you’re happy with your blend, it’s ready to use.   

Don’t be afraid to experiment – sometimes unusual combinations are the most successful.  If you end up with a truly awful combination, just throw it in the compost bin and try again.  

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We welcome your comments, below.  If you have questions, please e- mail us at: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com