Gardening for Health: 3. Time and Anticipation

Goldenstars (Bloomeria crocea) brighten the spring garden.

Gardening for health is more than just exercise doing garden chores.  It’s about designing gardens to help combat the stresses of daily modern life.  The digital era compounds our sense of urgency: there’s something new to worry about every few minutes.  This constant pressure is stressful – it wears us down.  One way that gardens promote health is by taking us out of this toxic environment - at least for a little while.   And there are tricks to make your garden experience even more healthful.

In the natural world, Mother Nature doles out her treats a little at a time.  If you live (or once lived) near a natural area, you know what we mean.  In S. California, the currants and gooseberries surprise with their blooms early in the year.  Lupines enchant with their rain-drenched colors in February and March; they also attract the early flying pollinators, like the bumblebees.  And so on through the seasons. Each month brings special treats to anticipate and keep us coming back. 

A natural place is never quite the same when we revisit it.  Some things stay the same (or nearly so).  But other elements change, month to month and year to year. Mother Nature gets the balance right: enough constancy and enough change.  Too little change is boring; too much can be overwhelming.  Because nature hits the sweet spot we keep returning, both to relax and to see what’s new. Nature is simply irresistible! 

 

 

We can adapt nature’s seasonal tricks in planning our gardens.  Most gardens include plants that stay pretty much the same throughout the year.  Evergreen trees and shrubs are good backbone plants because they provide sameness.  The constancy is calming, relaxing and reassuring.  It’s something your family can count on, year after year.     Such enduring views are even more important in an era of rapid change.

But we also need to plan for seasonal ‘treats’; things that give the garden a special allure at certain times of the year.  Among our favorite seasonal elements are the native geophytes (bulbs, corms and rhizomatous perennials).  They are easy to grow and that’s reason enough to use them.  They increase every year and naturalize in the garden – also good traits.

Wild hyacinth (Dichelostemma capitatum)

But native bulbs, corms and rhizomatous perennials also are some of the best ways to add seasonal interest to a garden.  In Mother Nature’s Backyard, we look forward to the emergence of new bulb leaves every winter/spring.  Then we monitor the progress of developing buds over the weeks.  Finally, the flowers emerge – each species according to its season – providing a moment of glorious color (and sometimes scent).   Native geophytes engage, delight and surprise us – every year, year after year.

Native geophytes provide something that’s often lost in contemporary gardens – a sense of time.  They give us a treat to look forward to.  We treasure their ephemeral flowers, knowing that their limited engagement makes them all the more special.  And we know they will return, at the proper time, year after year.  The geophytes provide something rare: that perfect blend of change and constancy that our contemporary world so desperately needs.

 

 

So spend a few months learning about the geophytes native to your area.  Think about places where they might succeed in your garden.  Many do well in containers, so even a small garden can utilize them.   Be sure to order your bulbs early (July or August is good – they won’t be shipped until fall).   Then plant a little bit of healthful magic in the form of bulbs and corms.    Trust us, you’ll feel happier – and healthier – for doing so.

 

For more on gardening with native bulbs see:

• http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html
• http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/03/plant-of-month-march-wild-hyacinth-blue.html
• http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/05/plant-of-month-may-california-brodiaea.html
• http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2018/04/plant-of-month-april-meadow-onion.html

 
For more posts in this series see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2018/01/gardening-for-health-1-go-hug-tree-for.html

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

Plant of the Month (April) : Meadow onion – Allium unifolium

Meadow onion (Allium unifolium): about to bloom
Mother Nature's Backyard

It’s April and California native bulbs are beginning to bloom in local gardens.  The Meadow onions in Mother Nature’s Backyard have flower buds – about ready to burst into bloom.  So we feature this lovely true bulb as our Plant of the Month.  The scientific name is pronounced: AL-ee-um  yu-nee-FOE-lee-um.

The Meadow onion is not native to Los Angeles County.  It grows along the Central and Northern coast of California, from San Luis Obispo County into Oregon.  It grows in moist, often grassy areas on coastal cliffs in the coastal pine and mixed evergreen forests.  It likes moist soils and is most comfortable in clay.  These two preferences make it a good choice for many gardens.
 

Meadow onion (Allium unifolium): bulb

Allium unifolium is an onion (genus Allium), a cousin to our culinary onions and garlic.  The onions were formerly included in a large bulb-forming family, the Lilliaceae.  Some taxonomists now recommend placing the onions in their own family, the Alliaceae. Others place the onions in the Amaryllis Family (Amaryllidaceae), along with such garden genera as Agapanthus, Amaryllis, Clivia, Narcissis and Zephyranthes.   Only time will tell where the Alliums will end up.

California has over 45 different species of native onions.  The vast majority grow in Northern California or the Sierra Nevada Range.   Only 11 are native to Los Angeles County, and only four (Allium dichlamydium, A. haematochiton, A. peninsulare and A. praecox) are to western Los Angeles County or the Southern Channel Islands.  Fortunately for S. California gardeners, even the northern species can often succeed in local gardens – if only you can find a source for the bulbs!

 

Meadow onion (Allium unifolium): foliage

 

Like most Alliums, Meadow onion is a fairly simple perennial.  Its leaves emerge from the bulb with the winter rains.  We often see them start to emerge in February in our garden.  The leaves are the simple, strap-like leaves of the onions.  The genus name unifolium mean ‘single-leaf’; in fact, another name for this plant is the One-leaf onion.  As seen above, plants are indeed sparsely leaved (one to four leaves is typical).

Meadow onion (Allium unifolium): flower bud

 

The leaves often start to wither from the tips (and sometimes wither altogether) before the flowers emerge.  Meadow onion blooms in spring or early summer: usually April or May locally, but a bit later in colder climates.   The flowers grow in dense clusters (umbels) on 1-2 foot (30-45 cm) flowering stalks. If you live in a dry place like S. California, the flowering stalks may be a little shorter.  The buds are tightly packed in a membranous sheath (see above) at the tip of the growing flower stalk.   The stalks grow very quickly to their full height.

 

Meadow onion (Allium unifolium): flowers

 

Meadow onion has the star- or bell-shaped flowers typical of the onions.  The six veined ‘petals’ are actually tepals (petals and sepals look alike).  The flowers are individually small (about ½ an inch across), but with 15 or more flowers per umbel, this onion is a showy bloomer.  The flower color is most often a pale lavender or pale pink, though white-flowering forms are known. 

Meadow onion (Allium unifolium): flower, lebelled

 

The flowers contain both male and female parts (‘perfect’ flowers).  The pollen in this species is either gray or yellow.  The plants produce seeds in our garden, so they do attract some insect pollinators with their mildly sweet aroma.  While the literature specifies bees as pollinators, we more often see the flower flies (below).

Meadow onion (Allium unifolium): pollinator
(Syrphid (Flower) fly.

 

Allium unifolium is easy to grow.  It can be grown in just about any soil, although it prefers the moisture-retaining clays.  It needs a neutral to alkali soil (pH 7.0-9.0). While it grows in full sun up north, Southern California gardeners should plant this species in part shade (afternoon shade to fairly shady).  This plant does need good winter/early spring rains.  We had to supplement ours this dry winter.  Unlike some native bulbs, this species can take occasional summer water.

We let our plants go to seed, then let them self-seed naturally (or spread them where we want to start a new patch).   Patches increase both by seed and by offsets (new little bulbs).  A modest investment in bulbs will increase to a nice grouping within 4-5 years.  We like to start out by planting 8-10 bulbs within a 2 square foot area.   Don’t worry about critters digging up the bulbs – they tend to leave onions alone.

Meadow onion (Allium unifolium)

 

We love the flowers of this onion.  The color contrasts nicely with native grasses and wildflowers.  It’s great for brightening shady areas of the garden, for example, under trees.  The plants naturalize nicely, and can help ‘tie together’ parts of the garden with their pastel leaves and flowers. 

Bulbs are a perfect choice for bordering pathways, as an accent plant in a rock garden or along a garden wall. Meadow onion’s flowers have a light, sweet fragrance, making them a good choice for containers near seating areas and as cut flowers.  This bulb would do well around the drier edges of a vegetable garden or in an herb garden.  There is some debate about whether this species is edible.  Native Californians did not eat it; however, at least one blogger uses the stems as a flavoring agent [ref. 1, below].

Meadow onion (Allium unifolium): in garden

 

So why include Meadow onion in your garden?  First, it’s easy to grow and available from bulb dealers.  Second, it’s a little charmer that’s adaptable to garden challenges like clay soil and a bit of shade.  Thirdly, it provides an economical solution to providing masses of spring color – or to naturalize. 

And finally, Meadow onion has all the magic of a native perennial bulb.  It gives you something to look forward to, without much care, year after year.  It’s a seasonal treat, anticipated and enjoyed, that ties us to the land and its seasons.  We echo many previous garden mavens, in singing the praises of garden bulbs.

 

 

For more on gardening with native bulbs see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html  

 

For a gardening information sheet see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/allium-unifolium

For more pictures of this plant see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/allium-unifolium-web-show

For plant information sheets on other native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html

 

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1. http://lilliehouse.blogspot.com/2015/06/permaculture-plants-allium-unifolium.html

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

Plant of the Month (May) : California brodiaea – Brodiaea californica

California brodiaea (Brodiaea californica) : Mother Nature's Backyard 

The parade of native ‘bulbs’ continues to unfold in S. California gardens.  From the early-blooming Red-skinned onion and Blue dicks, to the late-blooming Tritelias and Brodiaeas, there’s usually something of interest from January through May.  Right now the star geophyte is the California brodiaea, Brodiaea californica [pronounced bro-DEE-uh  cal-ih-FOR-ni-cuh]. 

As its name suggests, California brodiaea is endemic to California, gracing the foothills and meadows of the North Coastal Ranges and northern Sierra Nevadas.  It grows in gravelly, clay soils or serpentine, in the grassland, open woodland and chaparral communities, up to about 3000 ft. (900 m.) elevation.  But it grows surprisingly well in a range of garden soils and climates, making it a staple perennial in local gardens.   It is variously placed in the Lilliacieae or the Themidaceae, along with the California native Bloomeria, Dichelostema, Muilla and Triteleia. 

California brodiaea (Brodiaea californica) : corms

 

Brodiaea californica is a corm-producing perennial.  It dies back to its underground storage organ (the corm) after producing seeds.  The corm is rounded and has coarse, brown fibers (see above).   The plants remain dormant until the winter rains, when the stems begin to grow again.  The plants first produce several leaves; then, with the warmer weather, they quickly send up flowering stalks and begin to flower.  In our S. California gardens, the first green appears around February and flowering commences in late April or early May.  Flowering can last up to three to four weeks.

California brodiaea (Brodiaea californica) : foliage

 

The leaves of Brodiaea californica are long and narrow – up to ½ inch wide and 24 inches long.  Like most in this genus, the leaves are fleshy and medium green.  In a dry spring, the leaves will begin to yellow and dry at their tips as flowering begins.

 

California brodiaea (Brodiaea californica) : flower and buds

 

Flowers are grouped in starburst-like umbels atop stout stems.  Each umbel contains 8-12 upright flowers, each flower about 1-1 ½ inches (2.4-3.8 cm) in length (see above).  The flowers may be white or pale pink, but those in Mother Nature’s Backyard are a lovely pale lavender. 

California brodiaea (Brodiaea californica) : close-up of flowers

 

The flowers themselves have a specialized form.  The perianth (fused petals and sepals; three of each) forms a long tube with a flared opening (see above).  The pollen-producing stamens are surrounded by an upright, white, tube-like structure formed by the staminodia (sterile stamens).    

Such specialized floral architecture often reflects adaptation to specific types of pollinators.  We recently observed a hummingbird carefully visiting every flower.  We were surprised to learn that little is known about the pollination of Brodiaea californica.  We will continue to observe and photograph any potential pollinators, with the goal of adding to our knowledge of this species. We’ll also be more observant regarding the production of viable seeds.   Here’s hoping!

California brodiaea (Brodiaea californica) : lovely late spring color

 

California brodiaea is an easy plant to grow.  Once planted in the ground or in a pot, it needs only adequate winter/spring moisture and relatively dry conditions through the summer/fall to succeed and multiply.  In fact, as it hails from N. California, these corms can even take occasional summer water – just don’t over-do.

California brodiaea does fine in full sun to part-shade; morning sun is probably optimal in our drier S. California gardens.  If you’re growing it in a container, provide a layer of fresh potting mix or ½ strength fertilizer in winter/early spring.

 If flowering starts to decrease – or pots seem over-crowded – thin the corms in the fall. You’ll probably only need to do this every third or fourth year.  For more on caring for native corms, see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html

 

California brodiaea (Brodiaea californica) : glorious massed

 

This is truly one of the prettiest California native ‘bulbs’.  The robust foliage and flowers compete well with other native wildflowers.  We love the look of it with California poppy, the Clarkias and Gilias.   Masses of Brodiaea californica provide pastel color when many spring-flowering annuals are already done for the season (in S. California).  We welcome anything that provides color in the ‘between seasons’ period of May and early June.

Its size makes Brodiaea californica a good candidate for the foreground in mixed beds.  It also makes a good filler around perennial grasses, shrubs and herbaceous perennials.  This is one of our all-time favorites for containers; it’s truly a conversation piece. Place a container of California brodiaea near an outdoor seating area for maximum enjoyment.    The corms were apparently eaten by native Californians, though we have yet to try them.   We’ll try to learn more about their preparation.

In summary, California brodiaea is one of our favorite native ‘bulbs’.  It’s pretty, adaptable, robust and easy to grow.  We hope you’ll consider adding a pot or two to your own garden.   Just remember to order bulbs in summer – they sell out fast!

 

California brodiaea (Brodiaea californica) : lovely container plant
Home garden, Redondo Beach, CA

 

 

For a gardening information sheet see: https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/gardening-sheet-brodiaea-californica

For more pictures of this plant see: https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/brodiaea-californica-web-show

For plant information sheets on other native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

Plant of the Month (March) : Wild hyacinth (Blue dicks) – Dichelostemma capitatum

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - Mother Nature's Backyard: Gardena, California

One of the true joys of spring is the unfolding of the spring ‘bulbs’.  We spoke of gardening with California native bulbs, corms and rhizomes last month: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html.  One of the earliest – and easiest – of the local species is the Wild hyacinth (Dichelostemma capitatum).   The scientific name is pronounced dick (dike)-el-AH-stem-uh (or dick-el-oh-STEM-uh) cap-ih-TAY-tum.

Dichelostemma capitatum is known by several common names including Wild hyacinth, Blue dicks, Bluedicks, Common Brodiaea, Purpleheads and School bells.  It is one of the more common corm-producing perennials in California, with a range that stretches from Oregon to Arizona and New Mexico, and south to Baja California and Sonora, Mexico.  Its elevation range is also quite unusual: from sea level to 7000 ft. (2,100 m.) in California.   In fact, it can be found growing in nearly all California counties. 

Currant taxonomy usually places the genus Dichelostemma in the family Themidaceae (the Brodiaea family), along with Bloomeria, Brodiaea, Muilla and Triteleia – all perennials from corms.  But some taxonomists still include this genus in the family Lilliaceae (the Lily family) (1).   The species has two accepted sub-species: the Sparse-flowered blue dicks (Dichelostemma capitatum ssp. pauciflorum) and the more common Dichelostemma capitatum ssp. capitatum.

The Sparse-flowered blue dicks grows in deserts and desert scrub of Central and Southern California, as well as in Utah, New Mexico and northern Mexico.  Dichelostemma capitatum ssp. capitatum, the widespread subspecies, is native to western Los Angeles County and the Channel Islands, as well as much of California. It grows in a wide variety of plant communities including coastal strand, coastal prairie, mixed evergreen forest, chaparral, valley grassland, coniferous forests, oak woodlands, redwood forests, montane scree and on the fringe of coastal salt marshes and vernal pools.  The plants are more common in sunny openings and after a disturbance (fire; landslide; etc.). 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - leaves

 

Wild hyacinth is a relatively small, herbaceous perennial with fleshy, strap-like leaves.  The foliage is low – perhaps 1 ft. tall or less – and leaves are usually sprawling and somewhat twisted.  The leaves of older corms may be nearly an inch (2-3 cm.) wide and a foot or more long.  Younger plants have leaves that are almost grass-like.  You can see leaves for a range of plant sizes in the photo above.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - plants

 

In warm-winter areas, the leaves begin to sprout in winter, after the rains begin in earnest.  We often see them first in December in our part of S. California. After rapidly growing, the leaves begin to yellow at their tips just before the plants begin to flower.  Flowering usually begins sometime in February (but may be as early as January or as late as March) in the lowlands of western S. California; it’s as late as May or even June in colder parts of the state.  Flowering often commences after a period of warm dry weather.

Unlike some native ‘bulbs’, everything about Dichelostemma capitatum is slightly twisted or wavy – from the leaves to the flower stalks.  In fact, that’s one characteristic that differentiates Dichelostemma from the Brodiaeas, which tend to have straight stalks.  The flower cluster is also tighter than that of most native Brodiaeas.

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -
leaves and flower stalks are often twisted or 'wavy'

 

The leaves of Blue dicks are the ‘power plants’ that produce food to be stored underground in the dry season.  That’s why it’s important to let the leaves shrivel and dry of their own accord – after flowering is done and the weather turns warm and dry.  The energy for next year’s growth is stored in an underground corm – a thickened part of the stalk whose function is food storage. 

The corm of Dichelostemma capitatum looks something like a garlic bulb.  We’ve grown this plant for years – can’t believe we’ve never photographed the corms.  For a good photo, see reference 2, below.  When you dig up the corm, there often are offsets (cormels or cormlets), which are immature corms.  These may be attached to the parent corm or loose.   These will become mature, flowering plants in 3-4 years.

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)
 flower cluster

 

Wild hyacinth has small, old-fashioned-looking flowers. Each plant sends up a single flowering stalk, with flowers in a ball-like cluster at the tip.  Since not all the flowers open at once, a single plant is usually in bloom for several weeks.  And if you have corms in areas with different amounts of light, those in the sunnier areas will often bloom first.     

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -
 close-up of flower

 

The flowers are ½ an inch across (or perhaps a little more), with six petals that form an open, bell-shaped flower. The petals spread wider as the flower matures over a week or so.  The usual flower color for our area is violet-purple, though the species may have white, pink or lavender flowers on occasion.   One unusual feature is the ring of pale, petal-like appendages that surround the six fertile stamens (see above).

Western Tiger Swallowtail on Wild Hyacinth
 (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

 

Umber Skipper butterfly on Wild Hyacinth
 (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

 

While the flowers have little scent (at least to us), they do attract hummingbirds and butterflies.  The latter range in size from Tiger Swallowtails and Monarchs to the early-flying Skippers (for more on these butterflies see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2016/07/insect-postings-mother-natures-backyard.html).  There’s something utterly enchanting about a butterfly nectaring on the delicate flowers!

After flowering, Bluedicks flowers produce a number of small, black, irregularly-shaped seeds.  You’ll know when the seeds are ready; the seed capsule becomes dry and papery and the seeds start to fall out, of their own accord.  Bluedicks are easy to grow from seed.  If you want them to naturalize, simply scatter the seed  and rough up the soil a bit.  If you’re really pressed for time, just let Mother Nature do the work.  You can also collect seed, store in a cool dry place, then plant it with the winter rains.  For more on growing corms from seed see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html.

Wild hyacinth also reproduces vegetatively, producing corm offsets (called cormlets or cormels).  You won’t see these unless you dig them up.  But they will produce new plants the next year.  New plants have grass-like leaves and don’t flower until about their 3^rd year.  We’ll get some good pictures of seeds and cormels this spring – guess we’ve just been lazy about photographing this common species.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -
 easy to grow in pots

 

Bluedicks is one of the easiest native ‘bulbs’ to grow.  In fact, we heartily recommend it - even to those who’ve never gardened with bulbs in their life.  This species can be grown in just about any soil – in the ground or in containers.   It likes sun, but does fine under winter-deciduous trees and shrubs.  It can even be grown in dappled or bright shade – though the plants will be somewhat leggy.

The only real trick is the watering.  Like all native ‘bulbs’, Bluedicks needs adequate water in winter and early spring.  In a very dry winter, you may need to supply it.  Once plants begin to flower, or if leaves begin to yellow, it’s time to taper off the water.  This process happens naturally in a ‘usual’ S. California spring. 

But ‘usual’ is rapidly become unusual, and we’re often forced to begin supplemental irrigation in spring.  So just mimic the old days, and water your Bluedicks progressively less as weather warms up.  Once flowering ceases, really taper off; then stop altogether for summer and fall.  Bluedicks can take very occasional summer water, but need a summer/fall rest.  Corms that get regular summer water will rot.

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -
Madrona Marsh Nature Center, Torrance CA

 

So, how to achieve summer dry conditions?  Easiest, perhaps, is to grow Dichelostemma in containers that can be stored in a cool, dry place during the dormant season.  If you have a dry area of the garden – perhaps where you grow annual wildflowers and native grasses – Bluedicks would do well there.  Under water-wise trees that are winter-deciduous is another possibility.  But anyplace in the garden that you can allow to dry out between deep waterings can support this garden bulb.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -
Garden of Dreams Discovery Garden, CSU Dominguez Hills

 

If you’re worried about drainage, plant your bulbs along a warm wall, pathway or around rocks or boulders.  Mother Nature’s Backyard has an abundance of ‘urbanite’ (recycled paving concrete chunks; Mother Nature’s Backyard was a former dump site for construction debris and paving from the old Carrell speedway, once located near the site).  We try to use these materials creatively in the garden.  Not only are they useful for bulb-growing, this ‘rubble’ reminds us that native plants can grow in even the most challenging of soils.  Trust us – the soil in Mother Nature’s Backyard contains more debris than we’ve ever seen in an urban garden soil!  Sobering – but encouraging!!!

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)
 benefits from warm 'urbanite' - Mother Nature's Backyard

 

Like most native ‘bulbs’, wild hyacinth benefits from digging up the corms occasionally and thinning them (either by replanting or preparing a tasty delicacy – see below).  In the old days, wild animals and Native Californians dug up, scattered and replanted native ‘bulbs’ every few years. The digging also served to aerate the soil.  The disturbance helped the bulbs remain productive, and modern gardens benefit from similar practices (3).   Other than that, you don’t need to amend the soil – whatever you have will work just fine.   We add a layer of new potting mix atop our potted bulbs each fall.  Alternatively, give a dose of ½ strength fertilizer when the plants begin to grow.

Chicken wire protects native bulbs from hungry critters

 

If you have gophers, consider planting your bulbs inside a small ‘cage’ made of chicken wire.  This will keep the bulbs safe and won’t prevent them from growing normally.  If you grow bulbs in pots, we suggest making a chicken wire insert, cut to fit the pot, and laid atop the potting medium after planting.  You can cover the chicken wire with mulch if you like.  This will keep out squirrels, skunks and other pesky urban critters on the prowl for a tasty treat. 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)
with annual lupine: Madrona Marsh Native Plant Garden

 

Bluedicks is charming along walkways in spring, paired with annual lupines, California poppies and other native delights.  The purple flowers pair well with the yellows of Goldfields (Lasthena species) and Tidytips (Layia species).  Bulbs can be grown among the native bunchgrasses.  And they tuck in nicely around native shrubs.  We like to plant them close to pathways and seating areas – places where visitors can stop and admire them and their pollinators.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)
in spring garden: Madrona Marsh Native Plant Garden

 

The flowers are edible; use them raw as decoration in salads and on desserts.  But the most important edible portion is the corm.  Bluedicks corms were dug by the hundreds by native Californians.  In fact, bulb patches were managed as a food crop and revisited yearly; in some areas, particular patches were managed and harvested by individual families. These corms were an important source of starch in traditional diets.  Corms were usually harvested in the spring.

The corms can be eaten raw or cooked (4). They can be dried for storage or ground into flour to be used in baked goods or as a thicken agent.  They can be fried, boiled, roasted or baked.  Their flavor is mild and slightly sweet; the slower the cooking time, the sweeter the flavor. 

In summary, Dichelostemma capitatum is a great example of a California native geophyte (perennial plant with underground food storage organ).  It’s an easy choice for even the novice bulb gardener.  It comes back reliably, year after year; and it naturalizes, making it a good bargain as well.  The flowers are pretty and attract hummingbirds and butterflies. It’s a wonderful link to our natural heritage in many parts of California.  And the corms are an edible delicacy, worthy of the traditional and modern palette.  So, what are you waiting for?

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)
Mother Nature's Backyard

 

For a gardening information sheet see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/gardening-sheet-dichelostemma-capitatum

For more pictures of this plant see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/dichelostemma-capitatum-web-show

For plant information sheets on other native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html

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1. https://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=DICAC5
2. http://encinitasnatives.blogspot.com/2015_11_01_archive.html
3. MK Anderson, and DL Rowney, Edible Plant Dichelostemma capitatum: Its Vegetative Reproduction Response to Different Indigenous Harvesting Regimes in California: Restoration Ecology [Restor. Ecol.], vol. 7, no. 3, pp. 231-240
4. Charles W. Kane. Southern California Food Plants: Wild Edibles of the Valleys, Foothills, Coast, and Beyond. Lincoln Town Press,  2013.

 

 

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