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Showing posts with label gardening basics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardening basics. Show all posts

Thursday, March 15, 2018

Love 'Mother Nature's Backyard'? Here's your Chance to Participate.

Help maintain Mother Nature's Backyard through our Gardenista Program


Volunteer at Mother Nature’s Backyard & Gardens
Mother Nature’s Gardenistas
 
 

Overview:  Mother Nature’s Gardenistas are volunteers who help maintain Mother Nature’s Backyard gardens, blog and programs.  The gardens are located in the Gardena Willows Wetland Preserve (Gardena, CA).  For information on the gardens see: https://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/

 
Benefits of being a Mother Nature’s Gardenista

·         Learn about California native plants, their uses and management

·         Meet/network with others interested in water-wise,  life-friendly,  sustainable gardening, and in the local ecosystem

·         Experience regular doses of Nature in a preserve and gardens (good for your health)

·         Share your knowledge and experience with others

·         Give back to the local community, while exercising your mind and body

·         Use your skills and talents, including writing, photography, the arts, teaching, fund-raising and more.

 Requirements:

·         Interest in gardening with California native plants


·         Gardening experience (particularly with native plants) - useful, but not required

·         Commitment of at least one 3-hour block each month (weekday and weekend times available) for a period of at least 6 months

·         Willingness to learn and contribute as part of an active team

·         Curiosity about - and enthusiasm for - the natural world and for gardening

 

What you may do as a Gardenista: 

You will be working under the guidance of an experienced Head Gardener, who will coordinate the volunteer program.  Tasks will vary depending on the season and the skills and talents of the volunteer.  We’ll try our best to match your skills and interests with our needs.  You may be asked to: 

·         Assist with monthly gardening tasks, including: planting, watering, pruning, weeding, etc.

·         Help make decisions on future directions for the gardens & educational programs

·         Serve as a docent during times when the gardens are regularly open

·         Assist with special events like garden tours, workshops, classes

·         Teach classes and workshops in the gardens (depending on knowledge and skills)

·         Write columns for Mother Nature’s Backyard blog and/or serve as blog master

·         Help develop educational brochures and other garden teaching materials

·         Photograph the garden and garden events

·         Give outreach talks to local garden clubs and other groups

  

For more information: contact us at mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com
 
 
 

Sunday, June 25, 2017

Help! The Leaves on My Evergreen Toyon (Ceanothus, Coffeeberry, etc.) are Turning Yellow!

 
Yellowing leaves on California coffeeberry (Frangula californica)

It’s May, June or early July.  The days are warm and the garden’s transitioning from spring to summer.  Suddenly, you notice yellow leaves on your evergreen shrubs.  If the shrubs have been thriving all spring, the appearance of yellow leaves can be surprising and alarming.

Take a deep breath.  Then carefully examine your shrub.  Are the yellow leaves larger and older?  Lower on the branches (closer to the trunk)?  Are the yellow leaves scattered throughout the foliage (not concentrated on a single branch)?   Are healthy new leaves emerging?  If so, your shrub is likely exhibiting a normal seasonal process – summer leaf drop.
 
Note that the larger, older leaves are yellowing
 on this 'Ray Hartman' ceanothus
 
 Evergreen plants lose their leaves, just like deciduous plants.  But they lose them less frequently – and not all-at-once.  Shedding old leaves is but one way that woody plants conserve their resources.  Old leaves are often less productive. They are also more likely to be unhealthy.  In short, senescent leaves become a drain on the plant. They simply require more resources than they make, an unfavorable cost-benefit ratio.

And so, evergreen plants shed their old leaves, but not haphazardly.  They usually recycle mineral nutrients and plant chemicals before they jettison an old leaf.  The declining leaf then produces less green chlorophyll, becomes yellow (or orange) and ultimately separates from the branch at a special site called the abscission layer.  The process is relatively safe and painless for the plant; the abscission layer ‘walls off’ the leaf scar on the branch, preventing disease.   And the senescent leaf simply drops off – its work complete.

Older toyon leaf turning yellow & red.  Note disease.
 
Evergreen plants drop their old leaves at different times of the year. Some lose them, a little at a time, throughout the year.  But many large California native shrubs, particularly those from the chaparral, lose their leaves in late spring/early summer, before the dry season begins in earnest. This allows them to channel their energy into summer growth and drought avoidance.  So summer leaf drop is perfectly coordinated with our challenging mediterranean climate.

Coffeeberry leaves provide summer leaf color.
 
So what’s a gardener to do?  If you have a big garden event that requires an immaculate garden (a garden wedding?  a visit from the queen?) then gently remove the leaves just prior to the event.  This will improve the appearance and won’t harm the plant.  Otherwise, sit back and let nature take her course.

Enjoy a bit of ‘summer leaf color’.  Let the leaves fall naturally, creating a native leaf mulch to support your many soil creatures. Savor the yearly changes associated with our natural heritage.  Summer leaf drop is, after all, part of the cycle of seasons in a California native garden.
 

 

 

 
We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

Monday, May 16, 2016

The Spring-Summer Transition: Spring Garden Tasks


Mother Nature's Backyard at the Spring-Summer Transition

 
Gardens featuring California native plants have distinct seasons.  Spring is the time of new growth and wildflowers; we like to call it the ‘Growth Season’.  It’s a lovely time, one we look forward to each year.  But like all good things, the Growth Season is ephemeral.   To learn more about the seasons in California gardens see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/09/seasons-in-southern-california-garden.html.

Sometime in May (the timing depends on the weather and where you live in S. California), the garden begins to transition from spring to summer. You can see it happening before your very eyes.  Spring wildflowers finish their blooming – or are completely done – and the cool season grasses turn golden brown.  The days are longer and warmer, with a hint of the summer to come.  This is the spring-summer transition.

The spring-summer transition is one of two busy times in the California native garden.  The other is late fall (we’ll talk about that in October). These are clean-up, tidy-up and preparation times.  The tasks are not unpleasant, and you can do them over a period of several weeks (from May to June).  Once complete, your garden will look lovely; you’ll be ready to enjoy the outdoor celebrations of summer.

The main tasks of the spring-summer transition include watering, weeding/pest management, seed and foliage harvesting, tidying (including pruning) and checking, fixing and replenishing mulch and other hardscape.  We discuss each of these separately below.
 

Trickle watering bucket makes selective watering easy.
 
Watering

If your garden is young (two years old or less), now is the time to seriously begin a summer watering program.  The longer days, higher temperatures and wind can dry out a garden in a hurry.  So check the soil – dig down 3-4 inches – and water if it’s dry.

When watering, choose a cool, overcast day.  Review the 14-day weather forecast; if a cool, cloudy period is projected, that’s the time to water.

Even established gardens often include a new plant or two.  These will need a little summer water, even if the rest of the garden is drought tolerant. The easiest way to water individual plants is with a trickle watering bucket (for instructions on how to make and use one see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2015/07/surviving-drought.html).   Alternatively you can water with a hose set to a trickle.  Either way, you can water deeply, but selectively.
 

Oleander aphids and their predators on Milkweed.
 
Weeding and Pest Management

If you have a young garden, you may be ready to give up at this point.  Moist soils and warm weather provide perfect conditions for a number of pesky weeds.  Take heart: pull weeds before they go to seed and prevent a bigger problem next spring.  Weeding does become less of an issue as trees and shrubs shade out some of the sun-lovers.  That and weeding really pay off in the future – so get out and weed in the pleasant days of May!

If weeds are popping up in the cracks, wait for a sunny day and spritz them with vinegar.  It may take several treatments, but this old-time remedy really does work.  Best of all, it’s cheap and safe.

In general, pests are less of a problem in water-wise native gardens.  There are several reasons for this: 1) natives are less susceptible to their usual pests; 2) drier garden conditions deter some pests (slugs, snails and others); 3) native plants attract natural pest-eaters like birds and carnivorous (otherwise known as beneficial) insects. 

That being said, the fresh new foliage may be attracting aphids, thrips and other chewing and sucking insects.  Get out in the garden and look for them.   Look also for the beneficial insects: the ladybugs, robber flies, lacewings and others of Mother Nature’s pest control squad.

Ladybug larvae look like monsters - but they eat a whole
 lot of aphids
 
Learn what the beneficials look like: the Ladybug larvae (which eat the aphids) look like little monsters (see above) but they are true garden heros.   If you see adult Ladybugs on a plant, look for the larvae.  The adults are laying eggs, and the larvae are likely present in sizes ranging from minute to larger-than-adult.   Be thankful that you’ve got these voracious eaters in your garden!

If pests are overtaking a plant, then take action.  As a first step, try blasting aphids and thips off with a stream of water.  If that doesn’t work, use a mild insecticide – Safer’s Insecticidal Soap or a few drops of mild dish washing detergent in a liter of water.  Native plant gardens rarely require anything stronger.


Removing plants of the annual Succulent lupine
 (Lupinus succulentis)
 

Seed and Foliage Harvesting

Late spring is important for seed collecting/spreading.  After the spring-blooming plants finish flowering, they produce seeds.  If you want your wildflowers to return year after year, you need to either let the plants reseed naturally or collect the dry seeds and store them.   Learn more about managing annual wildflowers at: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2015/04/sustainable-gardening-managing-annual.html.
 

Annual wildflower plants (spent) used as mulch.
 
You may need to tidy the garden before all of the seedpods have opened.  Here’s a trick we use: harvest entire annual wildflower plants (or trim seed pods from perennials), cut them up if needed, and use them as mulch.   You may need to tramp the mulch down a bit for a tidier appearance; and you only want to use this mulch in areas where you want new plants to grow.   This method works quite well for reseeding, and has the additional advantage of creating no-cost summer mulch.
 


Coyote mint (Monardella villosa) ready for harvest.

If you use flavorful leaves for tea or seasonings, this is also a good time to collect the leaves of native mints, Salvias (sages), California sagebrush, California goldenrod and others.   The Salvias produce two set of leaves; if you want to use the larger ‘wet season leaves’, collect them before they begin to dry up.  For tips on how to preserve the leaves and flavors for use all year see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2016/04/california-gourmet-making-flavored.html.   You can also use the dried leaves for potpourri and other crafts: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/11/garden-crafts-making-potpourri-from.html

 
Many native plants benefit from a little tidying this
 time of year.
 
Tidying up (including a little pruning)

The spring-summer transition is one of two times a year (the other is late fall) when the garden can look a bit unkempt.   A bit of tidying can make your garden safer and healthier, in addition to looking better.  So get out your gloves and pruners to do a little plant maintenance.

We’ve discussed collecting seed from spring annuals above.  We like to leave the annuals until most of the seeds have ripened.  At that point it’s easy to pull up the dry plants and use them as mulch.  

If possible, we also leave the seed pods and fruits on trees, shrubs and perennials, either until they are ready to collect or they drive us crazy – whichever comes first.  Seed and fruit-eating garden birds depend on our gardens, particularly in times of drought.  So hold back until most of the edibles are gone, then prune as appropriate.   For more tips on pruning native plants see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/11/pruning-common-native-plants.html.

Look over your trees and shrubs.  Are there broken branches?   Areas with disease? Crossing branches that are rubbing, causing damage?   These problems should be remedied any time you see them.  But the spring-summer transition is a good time to give your trees and shrubs a thorough review.

Pruning shrubs that have over-grown the sidewalk.
Garden of Dreams Discovery Garden, CSU Dominguez Hills
 
Some perennials may have grown exuberantly in spring, extending out over paths and walkways.  Now is a good time to prune these back as well.  Just give them a light pruning for human safety.  We like to feather the edges of shrubs along walkways, rather than hedge-pruning to a straight edge.  But whatever works with your garden’s style is fine.

Some shrubs and perennials are growing vigorously with the warm weather.  If you want to create a bushier plant, tip prune branches during times of late spring growth.    Catalina snapdragon (Gambelia speciosa), Lemonadeberry (Rhus integrifolia), the herbaceous mints (Mentha, Clinopodeum, Stachys) and California fuschia (Epilobium canum) all respond well to this treatment.
 

New mulch makes the garden look fresh & tidy.
Garden of Dreams Discovery Garden, CSU Dominguez Hills.
 
Checking, Fixing and Replenishing Mulch and other Hardscape

Late spring is also a good time to do routine hardscape maintenance.  If using irrigation (of any type), now’s the time to be sure that everything is in working order.  Replace broken or non-functional elements; test timers to see if they are functioning properly.   You’ll soon need your irrigation system in good working order.

Late spring is also a good time to reassess your garden watering system/strategy.  As native plants become established, they may need less water.  Perhaps it’s time to replace your drip or conventional irrigation system with something less intensive.  At the very least, move drip irrigation or soaker hoses to accommodate the growing root system of maturing plants. 
 
Gravel mulch would benefit from a good raking to
 remove dried plant material.
 
This is also a good time to see if mulch needs replenishing.  Organic mulches break down over the winter; you may need to add some new mulch atop the old.  New mulch also gives the garden a tidy appearance.  Even inorganic (gravel; rock) mulches may need occasional replenishment.  At the very least, rake the inorganic mulch and remove spent organic matter to give a neater look for summer.

Late spring is a fine time to critically evaluate your paths and walkways.  Are they safe? Functional?  In the right place?    Would additional paths make it easier for you to access the garden?   Now is a good time to make changes or repairs – before the heat of summer begins.

Inspect walls, fences, patios, sheds and other hardscape.  Make needed repairs.
 

Mother Nature's Backyard is ready for summer!
 
While the spring-summer transition involves some work, the results are so dramatic that you can’t help but appreciate them.  So get out in the garden, put in a little extra time now, and enjoy the results all summer long.


 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

Saturday, August 15, 2015

Preparing for (El Niño?) Winter Rains


 


Sustainable gardening in Southern California means coping with highly variable precipitation. This month, we’re continuing to manage the effects of an epic four-year drought.  And now scientists are cautiously predicting an El Niño winter, with higher than average amounts of rainfall.  Yup, that’s gardening in our capricious mediterranean climate!

The U.S. Weather Service has official precipitation records for the L.A. Civic Center going back to the 1877-78 season (the water year runs from July 1-June 30) [1].  Since then, the average yearly rainfall is 14.93 inches [1, 2].  During the 138 year period, extreme precipitation years (both high and low) have become more common. 
 
 
The graph above shows the number of years below and above the average for two 25-year periods: 1890-1915 and 1990-2015.  One thing is clear: there are more ‘extreme precipitation’ years (both below and above average) in the current period.   The last 25 years had 10 years with a deficit of at least 5 inches.  This compares to 6 such years in the earlier period.  But there were also 6 years with 5 or more inches over the average (compared to two from 1890-1915).  So we need to prepare not only for more ‘drought’ years, but also for more ‘wet’ ones.

We gave you some tips for surviving the drought (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2015/07/surviving-drought.html) and summer planning last month: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2015/07/summer-time-for-garden-planning.html.   This month we suggest ways to prepare for this winter’s rains - El Niño or not. 

First, a word of caution. Mother Nature’s Backyard is situated in the flat lowlands of the Los Angeles Basin.  Our advice is most applicable to gardeners in similar areas. If you live in the foothills, and particularly if you live along a creek, in areas below recent burns, or those prone to landslides, you may need to take additional precautions.  Consult your local municipality for advice on preparing for an El Niño winter.  Recent ocean temperatures indicate that this may be a very wet winter.  Prepare now if you live in a flood-prone area!

The rest of us still have several months to make our gardens both more water-wise and more El Niño proof.   Some of the suggestions below may not be applicable.  But we hope you’ll adapt some for use in your garden – and get moving on making them happen.  The time is now to prepare for the winter rains.

1.   Consider decreasing the area covered with impervious materials. Traditional walkways, driveways, concrete or mortared patios all are impervious surfaces. Water runs off them and, very often, into the storm drains and out to the ocean.   That’s one reason why urban areas like the Los Angeles basin need such extensive storm drain systems.

El Niño years can be tricky.  Whether they bring deluges or persistent showers, excess water can become a challenge for local gardens.  Fortunately, you can take several steps to prevent/decrease the effects of running or standing water in your garden. 

One strategy is to increase the percentage of the yard that can infiltrate rain water.  This allows more water to infiltrate in place, rather than aggregate in ponds or rivulets.  We discuss several infiltration options below (see suggestions 2 & 3).  Another idea is to simply convert impermeable surfaces to permeable ones.  This helps control excess rain water and also increases the amount of irrigation water available to plants (by decreasing summer run-off).

Permeable walkways in Mother Nature's Backyard
 
There are many ways to make walkways, patios and driveways more permeable (see the links below).  Some, like replacing your driveway with permeable paving materials, require more time, skill and money.  Others, like converting an old concrete patio or walkway into something more pervious, can be done quite economically, if you’re able to do most of the work yourself.  For ideas on permeable surfaces see:


 



2.   Use the rainwater that falls on your roof.  Your roof is a large rain collector. Does the water from your roof end up in the storm drains?  Does it make a muddy mess around your house, threatening the health of your foundation? If so, now is the time to install gutters and harvest rain from your roof.  

A rain chain is another way to direct water from a gutter


The advantage of gutters is that they let you direct the water collected by your roof. You can then store the water (see #4, below) or direct it to places where it can be infiltrated into the ground (#3, below).   For more information on rain gutters see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/02/harvesting-rain-gutters-downspouts-and.html.  

3.   Infiltrate more water into the ground using a rain garden, dry well or dry swale. Water from impermeable surfaces must go somewhere. In the past, most of it has ended up in the ocean.  But each year, more California gardeners are installing simple infiltration ‘devices’ in their gardens. 

While getting rid of one problem (excess runoff), these devices also solve another: providing deep water resources for trees and shrubs.   They allow water to infiltrate into the ground, replenishing the ground water.  Trees, shrubs and other long-rooted plants can then access this ground water well into summer.

If you have an area where rain water puddles, you may want to consider a simple infiltration device like a dry well.  These take little space, are relatively easy to install, and often solve the puddling issue admirably.  They can be used in unplanted areas, making them a good option for patios and utility areas covered in gravel mulch.   See the links below for more information.

Rain garden - Mother Nature's Backyard garden
 
Rain gardens and infiltration swales are the perfect complement to rain gutters, infiltrating the water from a roof. While no two rain gardens or dry swales are the same, they all slow or store water briefly, allowing it to percolate into the ground.   They can be planted or not; they can be disguised as a natural-looking dry creek. Some are used as seating or play areas in the dry season.  And they allow you to use plants that like a little extra winter water, even if the rest of your garden is quite water-wise. 

Rain gardens, dry wells and dry (infiltration) swales are easy to incorporate when you are installing a new garden (or re-doing an old one).    Like all hardscape features, they’re easiest to install before a garden is planted.  If you’re removing your lawn, now is a good time to consider whether a dry well, rain garden or dry swale is right for your garden. Here are some good resources:



·        Plants for Rain Gardens and Vegetated Swales: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/rain-gardensswales

4.   Consider storing some water.  People in dry climates around the world store rainwater for use in dry periods.  The regulations on rain water collection/storage are changing, so check your local municipality to learn what is legal.  Nearly all S. California municipalities permit you to store water in rain barrels, to be used for watering your garden (not for drinking).



As rain water storage gains popularity, more options are available locally and on-line. Fifty gallon plastic rain barrels are sold at many hardware and do-it-yourself stores.   Some water companies give them away for free or at low cost.   And larger storage containers are also becoming more common. For more on rain water storage see:  http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/06/harvesting-rainwater-rain-barrels.html

As water becomes more scarce (and costly) it’s silly to not take full advantage of the rain that falls on your property. California law is now clear – you own that water!  Don’t let it slip away.   Act now to use your clean, free rain water this winter.

5.   Use the ‘high’ and ‘low’ spots in the garden to best advantage.  Sandy soils dry out quickly in summer; clay soils tend to hold water, creating wet spots in winter.    Most gardens have areas that are ‘high and dry’ and others that are low and moist.  If not, it’s relatively easy to create a bit of garden topography with low berms (artful mounds) and shallow swales. 

Whether your soil drains quickly, slowly, or somewhere in between, creating modest garden topography has several advantages.  First, a planted berm is often an excellent way screen short, unsightly views (for example to block views of parked vehicles).  Berms and swales can also be used to direct and infiltrate rain water.  And they add interest to a flat garden.

Another benefit of berms and swales is that they allow you to grow plants with water requirements slightly different from those available in the rest of your garden.  For example, plants that hate wet feet can be grown at the top of a berm (driest place). Plants that like a little extra water often do well at the bottom of a slope or swale.  For more on creating garden topography see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/12/getting-to-know-your-gardens-soil.html.
 

Fresh organic mulch: Garden of Dreams, CSU Dominguez Hills

6.   Consider replenishing mulch a little early this year. Newly laid mulch is  more vulnerable to washing away.  If you use mulch, consider doing your fall mulching in late summer or early fall.  That will allow the mulch to compact a bit before the winter rains.  For more on mulches see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/07/understanding-mulches_23.html

7.   Use the weather forecast to plan fall pruning.  Fall pruning is best done after the fall heat waves but before the winter rains.  Predicting the best time to prune can be a challenge.  Consult the long term weather forecast when scheduling fall pruning.  Don’t forget to consider the birds and other creatures that rely on your garden for food.  For more on the topic of fall pruning see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/11/maintaining-your-new-california-garden_15.html

Fall pruning - Mother Nature's Backyard garden


8.   Choose trees, shrubs and vines that can take both drought and excess rain. Global climate change makes planning for the future a bit more challenging.  We’re already seeing some effects: hotter temperatures overall; more temperature and precipitation extremes; changes in the timing of the seasons.  The recent drought is just a taste of things to come.

Trees, vines and large shrubs are an excellent way to provide shade. In fact, all local gardeners should be planting now for future shade.  With planning and proper care, large shade plants can live for many years.  But choosing the best adapted plants is something we’re just beginning to grapple with. 

In Southern California, our best choices will need to withstand both the periodic droughts and periods of greater precipitation. Only certain plants are so adapted. California native trees and shrubs are better candidates than those from the tropics or other regions with plenty of precipitation.  But what native trees and shrubs will be able to take both the heat and the precipitation extremes?  We have some ideas and will discuss that topic next month (September, 2015).
 
Planting Mother Nature's Backyard garden


9.   Take advantage of winter rains for planting.  Winter is the easiest time to plant in lowland Southern California.  Soils are well-moistened and the temperatures cooler.  That’s why California native gardens are traditionally planted in late fall or winter.

Winter is not only the easiest time to plant, but it’s also the best for plant health.  California native plants are adapted to our seasonal weather patterns.  Many are dormant (or at least slow growing) by late summer or fall; they are primed to grow with the winter/spring rains.  Plant them in late fall/winter and they will establish themselves right on schedule. 

But plant California native plants in summer and they’ll be ‘seasonally confused’; the heat says ‘it’s time to go dormant’ while the irrigation water says ‘it’s time to grow’.  In fact, summer planting is difficult not only for the plants, but also for the gardener.   Planting with the rains is yet another example of working with Mother Nature.  Gardening elders have learned – often through painful experience - that working with Mother Nature is better than trying to work against her!

An El Niño year can be an excellent opportunity to start a new garden – or plant trees and large shrubs.  So do your summer planning now.  Figure out what plants you need.  Plan to buy required plants at the fall plant sales, and plant them with the winter rains.

Rainy day - Mother Nature's Backyard garden

10. Enjoy today’s weather, whatever it may be.  The news on climate change can be downright depressing.  The best antidote is to sit in your garden.  Enjoy the hot, dry days of late summer.  Watch the abundant life that enlivens California gardens this time of year.  Enjoy the balmy evenings – and vow to plant more silvery-colored shrubs to enhance your twilight garden.  

Look forward to the cool rains.  Sit out in your covered patio and smell the rain.  Listen to the sounds of a rainy day in your garden.  Watch the birds and other creatures – what are they doing on a rainy day?  Put your potted plants out to benefit from the good, pure water.

Those of us in California are blessed with a wonderful climate, with seasons that promise beauty and interest every month of the year (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/09/seasons-in-southern-california-garden.html).  But where ever you may garden, there’s something wonderful in your garden right now.  So, enjoy today’s weather – whatever it may be.



___________________

  1. http://www.laalmanac.com/weather/we13.htm
  2. http://www.wunderground.com/blog/weatherhistorian/show.html


 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your gardening questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com