Plant of the Month (November) : Clustered (California) Field Sedge – Carex praegracilis

Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis) - Mother Nature's Backyard

Few plants are blooming now in Mother Nature’s Backyard.  And those that are have already been featured as Plants of the Month.  But one of our favorite ground covers is perking up with the recent rains and cooler days.  So we’ve chosen Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis) as our Plant of the Month.  The species name is pronounced CARE-ex  pre-GRASS-ill-iss.

The sedges (genus Carex) are perennial, grass-like plants that grow in climates ranging from the tropics to the tundra; sub-Saharan Africa is the only continent with few species.    Most of the several thousand species grow in boggy, marshy places or near ponds and streams, but some are more drought tolerant. 

There are over one hundred and thirty Carex species native to California, the  vast majority growing solely or mostly in the Sierra Nevada Mountains or the mountains of N. California.  However, about 20-25 species are native to Los Angeles County or the S. Channel Islands. [2]   While most of them grow only in the San Gabriel Mountains, a few can be found in the lowlands as well.  Carex praegracilis is one of them.

 

Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis) - good example
 of California native sedge

 

The leaves of sedges are long, narrow and grass-like. In fact, many people mistake sedges for grasses. But sedges are actually close cousins, belonging to a different family entirely (the Cyperaceae) and having flowers quite different from those of the grasses. In fact, the flower stalks of the sedges are triangular in cross section.

The old saying 'sedges have edges, rushes are round, grasses have knees that bend to the ground' helps one remember a key difference between the grass-like plants.   Most sedges spread by rhizomes (underground stems), stolons (‘runners’) or roots, forming a lawn-like sod.  Sedges are used in some areas as a substitute for lawn grasses.

Clustered field sedge has a wide geographic range – from mid-western U.S. to the west coast.  In California, it grows in the California Floristic Province and desert mountain ranges, from sea level to about 7000 ft. (2500 m).  It once grew along the LA River, Ballona Creek and marshes, on Santa Catalina Island and in the Liebre, Tehachapi and San Gabriel Mountains. [3]  It likely was common, but unrecorded, in many other moist places in the lowlands of western Los Angeles County.  In S. California, it occurs in/near both freshwater and alkali wetlands, including those that are only seasonally wet.



Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis)

 

In the horticultural trade, Carex praegracilis is sometimes confused with (and sold as) Carex pansa, a shorter species native to several areas along California’s central and northern coast.  Both are similar in appearance and use in the garden.  But there are important differences between the two, including size: Carex pansa is only about 6-8 inches tall, while Carex praegracilis is slightly taller.  For a great discussion of the two species (and how to tell them apart) see reference 4, below.

 

Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis): fine-textured
 foliage

 

Clustered field sedge is a perennial with narrow, bright to medium green leaves typical of sedges. The leaves are slightly more narrow and longer than Carex pansa.   It grows about 1-2 ft. tall and looks superficially like a fine-bladed grass.  In fact, the species is commonly used as a grass substitute.  It spreads via stout, dark rhizomes (underground stems) to form a sod-like mat. 

 

 

Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis): spreads by
 rhizomes to create a sod-like mat

 

This species is a very useful addition to local gardens.  It tolerates full sun to part-shade.  We’ve found it looks best in part shade, and even have a nice stand growing north of a 10 ft. wall in Mother Nature’s Backyard (see below).  Carex praegracilis does fine in most local soils, from sandy to clay (we’ve grown it in both extremes).  It doesn’t mind the alkali soils found in some parts of our region.  

Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis): in shady
 position with Feltleaf everlasting

 

Clustered field sedge really needs no added fertilizer, though it probably wouldn’t harm it.  While young plants need regular water, established plants are quite drought tolerant. Carex praegracilis can get by with infrequent irrigation (deep watering several times a summer), though plants will go dormant.  To keep established plants green, water every 2-4 weeks, depending on soil type.  Taper off water in the fall, to give plants a bit of a rest.

Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis): naturally
 dormant under dry conditions

 

Like most Carex species, Carex praegracilis is best started as a purchased plant or as plugs.  In our experience, Clustered field sedge spreads more slowly than Carex pansa, taking several years to really establish in western Los Angeles County.  It may fill in more quickly in wetter regions (or with more irrigation than we give it).  If used as a lawn substitute, we suggest planting plugs 8-10 inches apart. 

Carex praegracilis is a cool season, sod-forming sedge, so it does most of its growth in winter and spring in lowland S. California.   It blooms in late spring or early summer.  The blooms, on stalks that are somewhat taller than the leaves, are pale green, fading to tan fruits with white tips. The flowers and fruits are not particularly noticeable, although characteristic of the species; we’ll get some photos next year.  For good photos see reference 5, below.

Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis): nice
natural groundcover

 

Clustered field sedge is worth considering when you want the appearance of ‘grass’ in an easy care, water-wise native.  It’s very low maintenance; all that’s needed is to cut back to remove the brown foliage (if any) in late fall.  If it spreads into areas where it’s not wanted, just pull out the young plantlets.

Clustered field sedge makes a good natural lawn substitute, and established plots can even be mowed (4-6 inches) several times during the growing season. Sedge lawns can be walked on, though probably not the best choice for heavy use.  The sod grasses are still the best option for playing fields and other heavy traffic areas.   But if you just need a water-wise, decorative green ‘lawn’, Carex praegracilis could be a good choice.

Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis): low maintenance

 

We like Clustered field sedge left un-mowed, allowing it to form a natural groundcover under and around trees/shrubs. It is a great natural groundcover for vegetated (infiltration) swales, and can be mixed with other groundcovers liking seasonal water.   It does well on slopes and can be very useful there.  If watered, it can be used as a fire-resistant buffer plant in fire-prone areas.   You can even grow it in a pot for spot of greenery on a shady porch.

Incredibly adaptable and drought-resistant, Carex praegracilis may be just the plant you need to create a ‘green oasis’ in your water-wise garden. It’s locally native, delicate of appearance, yet tough as nails.  It fills in between plants, providing needed contrast for other native plants.  We couldn’t garden without it!

Clustered field sedge (Carex praegracilis):  nice addition
 to many gardens

 

 

For a gardening information sheet see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/gardening-sheet-carex-praegracilis

For more pictures of this plant see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/carex-praegracilis-web-show

For plant information sheets on other native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html

 

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1.            http://www.greenleeandassociates.com/carex-pansa.html

2.            http://www.calflora.org/cgi-bin/specieslist.cgi?row_to_start=150&num_matches=172&tmpfile=cf158936&format=photos&next=next+22 

3.            http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/eflora/eflora_display.php?tid=17745           

4.            http://www.pacifichorticulture.org/articles/a-sedge-by-another-name/

5.            http://calphotos.berkeley.edu/cgi/img_query?where-genre=Plant&where-taxon=Carex+praegracilis

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

 

Plant of the Month (June): Western Yarrow – Achillea millefolia

The garden is glorious with clouds of Yarrow blossoms this month.  Yarrow can bloom anytime from spring to fall in our area, but it reaches its peak in summer.   There are many good reasons to include Yarrow in a garden.  We hope this essay will convince you to try this easy-to-grow native perennial.

Yarrow grows throughout California (and western U.S.)  from the coast to the mountains.   You’ll find it in numerous plant communities from the coastal strand, coastal prairie and coastal sage scrub to the chaparral and coniferous forest.   In the wild it often grows in meadows and grasslands along with native grasses, perennial herbs and bulbs.   It often forms a natural groundcover between/beneath taller plants.

Yarrow is a member of the Sunflower family (Asteraceae) which makes sense when you look closely at the flowers.  The dense, rather flat flowering clusters are composed of many tiny ‘sunflowers’ (see photo above).  The flower color is usually white, but there are pastel pink or purple variants which are the basis for several horticultural varieties (cultivars). 

We included the bright pink cultivar ‘Island Pink’ in Mother Nature’s Backyard to enhance our pinks/purples color scheme.  ‘Island Pink’,  a naturally pink variant from the northern Channel Islands, is available at many native plant nurseries (see page entitled ‘Where to Buy Native Plants’).   Plant breeders continue to develop cultivars with flower colors that range from red, rust and orange to gold and yellow.  Some of these are hybrids with European forms of Yarrow.

The foliage of Yarrow is pretty in its own right.  The leaves are so finely dissected that they appear feathery or fern-like.  They add an interesting texture and medium green color to the summer garden.  Despite its delicate appearance, Yarrow is one tough plant.  It can survive drought, seasonal flooding, alkali soils, sandy or clay soils, seaside conditions – even people walking on it.   Now that’s our kind of plant!

Yarrow is a natural groundcover.  It spreads via roots and can literally fill an area.  This can be either good or bad, depending on your needs.  Yarrow makes a wonderful groundcover, particularly in those difficult areas under trees that range from quite sunny to quite shady.   It can be cut back – even mowed occasionally to 4-6 inches – to keep it as a non-flowering groundcover. Or you can mow some areas and leave others to flower.  If you don’t want Yarrow to spread, it does well in pots/containers and planters if you divide it every other year. 

Yarrow is an extremely adaptable garden perennial.  It can be grown in most soils and tolerates everything from full sun to part-shade.  You can even grow it in quite shady conditions, although it may not flower.  It is quite drought tolerant, though it  dies back to the ground under very dry conditions.  It will stay green from spring to fall with occasional water (Water Zone 2) or regular water (Zone 3). This makes it a good plant for transitions between regularly watered parts of the garden (like lawns) and drier areas.   We particularly like Yarrow as a filler plant in newly planted water-wise gardens.  It provides needed color while trees and large shrubs are growing.  It becomes a welcome, water-wise groundcover once the larger plants mature.

Both the straight species and Yarrow cultivars are available at most native plant nurseries.  You can also grow Yarrow quite easily – and inexpensively – from seed.  Seed can be ordered on-line from both Larner Seed and the Theodore Payne Foundation (see ‘Where to Buy Native Plants’).    Store your seed packet in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for better germination.  We suggest starting your seed in containers (washed, recycled nursery pots or plastic drinking cups with a hole poked in the bottom work fine), then transplanting the plants into the garden.  The seeds are small, so sprinkle them on the potting soil and lightly cover with additional potting soil. Water them in - then be sure to keep the soil moist until seedlings develop.  

We suggest planting the seeds in winter, when the rains can do some of the watering.  Seeds will begin to germinate when the days start to warm,  so don’t give up if your seeds don’t germinate right away.  The picture above shows newly germinated Yarrow seedlings.  They will soon develop leaves that look more Yarrow-like.  In about 2 months they will be ready to transplant into the garden.

There are many reasons to consider including Yarrow in the home garden.  The flowers are lovely in the summer garden and make nice cut flowers.   Yarrow is one of the best native plants for attracting beneficial insects and repelling ‘undesirables’.   This is one reason that Yarrow was routinely planted – or left as a natural plant – around vegetable gardens in the past.   Plant Yarrow near your vegetable garden and you’ll begin to see the benefits right away.  Yarrow is also said to intensify the flavors of herbs planted near it.

Yarrow has many traditional uses.  The flowers can be used to make an aromatic tea.  Young leaves can be included in a salad – they are tart, so use sparingly.  Yarrow has a long history of use as a medicinal plant.  The leaves are effective at stopping the bleeding from minor cuts and scratches.   The whole plant makes a variety of plant chemicals known to have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal qualities.   As with any herbal medicine, you should be sure to learn about the precautions associated with it and the safe ways to use it.  This plant should be used sparingly, as allergies can develop.   

The entire plant can be used as a natural dye plant, producing shades of yellows and greens.   The flowers, foliage and seeds can be including in fragrant potpourri and sachets.  They are said to repel moths, houseflies and ants.  

Yarrow is easy to grow.  We suggest that you taper off watering in fall, letting the plants die back a bit before winter.  Fall is a good time to cut back old flowering heads and remove plants that have spread too far.  If you wish, you can deadhead (remove spent flowering heads) or mow several times during the summer.   Be sure to set your mower height to high – 4-6 inches – so you don’t damage the plants. After a short winter dormant period, plants will begin to grow again in the spring.  This is another good time to dig out unwanted plants.  You can re-pot these and give them away as gifts or use them as suggested above.