Sustainable Living: Foraging for Native Plant Foods in Your Own Backyard

Sustainable foraging for native dye plants in the garden

 

Interest in the edible, medicinal and other uses of native plants has grown dramatically in the past five years. Mother Nature’s Backyard has played a role in this. Our ‘California Gourmet’ and ‘Garden Crafts’ series specifically promote the use of California native plants.

Native plants play an important role in living sustainably.  They furnish habitat, create shade, improve the soil and provide edible and craft materials.   To put it simply, California natives are remarkable additions to the garden ecosystem. But it’s important to remember that these plants are also critical components of natural ecosystems.

The increased interest in edible and medicinal native plants creates several unintended consequences.   Most important is the overuse of natural stands of native plants growing in the wild.   This is not just a problem in California; over-collecting of native plants is a critical issue world-wide, leading to the extinction of entire plant species.

While some California native plants are still common, others are rare – even endangered - in the wild.  Humans have played a key role, primarily by destroying habitat (building houses, roads, etc.).  Global climate change is putting further pressures on wild plants and animal populations. 

To stress wild populations further by wild foraging is unsound.  In fact, there are legal, health/safety, practical and ethical/stewardship reasons to limit wildland foraging.  For a thoughtful article on this see: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/lisa-novick/forage-in-the-garden-not_b_10211746.html.  

We urge that you consider foraging in your own garden rather than in the wild.  A thoughtfully planned garden can supply many edibles and loads of materials for garden crafts.  In fact, you may have an excess.  Consider swapping ‘produce’ with others to increase the variety of materials available to you.  Get to know which weeds are edible or useful; knowing that a weed is edible can turn a chore into an interesting adventure.

There are many reasons to forage your own garden rather wild foraging.  Here are just a few:

 

Legal reasons

1. You own the resource. Collecting on private property or on protected government land can be risky business, particularly without the proper permits.   Trespassing and stealing can lead to fines – even jail time.   Safer to forage in your garden.
2. Rare species, purchased from reputable sources, are legal to own and plant in your garden. Wildland endangered/ threatened species are often legally protected.  They cannot be taken, removed, destroyed, collected etc. in the wild.  You can harvest (responsibly) the rare species you grow in your garden.  Just be sure to purchase plants from reputable sources only.  Don’t risk the legal consequences of planting a plant that’s been illegally harvested.

Health & safety reasons

1.    You know you are using the correct species. Field foraging can result in mistaking a toxic for a safe species.  Poisonings – even deaths – from eating wild foraged plants occur each year.  Purchase and clearly label garden plants, making sure that proper precautions are taken with hazardous species.   You wouldn’t want to feed your family something that might make them sick!

2.    You know how the resource has been managed. Pesticides, herbicides, pollution, etc. can affect the safety of plants ingested as food/medicines or used in craft projects.  You can manage these exposures in your garden; you have no clue about them when you wild forage.

Practical reasons

1. Ease of access. It’s so much easier (and sometimes safer) to harvest plant materials in the garden than the wild. 
2. You can pick edibles, medicinals and craft materials at the ‘peak of freshness’.   The taste, appearance and effectiveness of many materials varies with the season and the weather.   Grow source plants in your garden, where you can easily monitor them and harvest at the optimal time.
3. You can grow enough of the species you enjoy.  We all use our plants differently.  By planting just the species you use, you can make best use of your garden’s space.  A natural dyes enthusiast will plant different plants from someone with an interest in medicinal plants.    Choose plants for their useful properties in addition to their beauty.
4. Useful plants provide added value to your garden.  Berry bushes, vines and trees can provide habitat and shade in addition to food.  Dye plants and edibles can be pretty and water-wise.  Useful native plants can stabilize a slope and improve soil nutrients and physical properties.  Useful native plants provide these ‘added services’ in the wild; why not in your garden?
5. Harvesting home-grown materials gives purpose to your garden.  There’s nothing like the satisfaction of growing your own food and other useful products.  Working in a useful garden provides purpose to all who participate.  Gardening – and garden foraging – are good, wholesome family activities!     And they are often fun as well!

Ethical/stewardship reasons

1. You don’t over-tax rare natural resources.  Even when we each take just a little, if there are many foragers, scarce wild plants can disappear.  Wild resources are the sacred heritage of us all; they are a gift to pass on to future generations.  Admire plants in the wild; observe them, photograph them and enjoy them.  But forage California natives in your own garden; it’s the responsible – and ethical – thing to do.
2. You can manage garden plants using sound ecological principles.  Since you control the resources, you can manage them wisely.  You can harvest just enough, at the right time, to sustain the plants. 
3. No need to waste time & gas getting there.  If you worry about scarce resources and air pollution, garden foraging is the most economical and earth-friendly option.
4. Passing along an ethic of sustainability to the next generation. The planet is getting more crowded – that’s obvious.  To adapt, we need to adopt and promote sustainable living practices.  Be an inspiration: live sustainably, grow sensible plants (like local natives) and forage in your own backyard.   Your children, grandchildren, students and others need to learn these skills.   Be a teacher of sustainable life skills – that’s important!

Wild greens foraged sustainably from Mother Nature's
 Backyard garden.

 

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

Garden Crafts: Making a Yarn-wrapped Vase or Bottle

 

Yarn-covered bottle using hand-dyed yarn (natural dye: Rabbitbush flowers)

Non-knitters often ask what they can make with the yarn they’ve dyed (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/10/solar-dyeing-with-native-plant-trimmings.html).  In fact, there are a number of crafts that use colored yarns.  Making a yarn-covered vase, bottle or container is one such craft.  We like it because it’s thrifty and sustainable; you recycle containers and left-over yarn into unique vases, boxes and jars.

This is a fairly easy craft; you may have actually done it in school.  It’s a great way to use up scraps of yarn, and is a wonderful rainy day activity.  It does take a little practice, but you’ll pick up the technique quickly.   Once you have some practice, you can introduce the craft to children (we suggest 4^th grade and up – and using rather thick yarn for a beginning attempt).

 

Materials

All that’s needed are:

• A bottle, jar or container to cover.  Start with smaller, straight-sided ones until you get the hang of it.  Glass and cardboard are a little easier to work with than plastic (at least in our hands). Plastic, wood or cardboard ones recommended for children. 
• White glue (Elmer’s or liquid school glue).  Use the kind that dries clear.
• Yarn of several colors – you’ll need 10-15 yards (meters) total, depending on the size of the bottle/jar/container.  Any yarn but the fancies and very thin yarns (which are too hard to work with) will do.    Wool, acrylic, hand- or commercially dyed – or a combination – can be used.  If doing this craft with children, use the thickest yarn you have.   Acrylic yarn may be easier to work with at first - it usually stretches less than wool.

We suggest choosing several colors of yarn that you like – 3-5 colors look nice for a typical bottle or jar (see above)

• Piece of bulky yarn or string (enough to go around the container once plus a little extra).   It’s best if the color is neutral (white, brown, gray or black) or complements the other yarns.

• Scissors to cut the yarn.
• Paper or a large trash bag (to protect the work surface in case of drips).
• Small piece of plastic wrap (or a plastic bag)
• Fixative (optional) – see step 8, below

 

Instructions

1. If using jars or bottles, remove paper labels (soak in warm soapy water overnight) and thoroughly wash the insides and outsides.  Be sure that the jar/bottle/container is completely dry before starting the project.
2. Spread out paper/trash bag on the work surface. 
3. Choose a selection of yarns that look nice together.  We suggest using yarns that are all the same thickness for your first project.  We also suggest choosing three or five colors, if possible.  Be sure that the yarns are straight, with no kinks or knots.

 

Foundation layer of household string

4. Make the foundation layer

• Spread a line of glue at the very bottom edge of the container.  Let it dry for about 1 minute.
•  Take the bulky yarn or string and place it over the glue (to glue it in place).  Cut off any excess length and be sure that both ends are well attached (use a little extra glue if needed). 
• Place the container right side up on the work surface.  Using the piece of plastic wrap, gently work the bulky yarn/string into place at the very bottom of the container (where the container meets the work surface).  Press the yarn/string in place, flattening it slightly against the container.  It’s important that the yarn/string is well-glued and even with the bottom of the container;  this will form the base for subsequent layers of yarn.
• Let the foundation layer dry completely before adding color layers.

 

5. Add the color layers

• Choose the first color and lay out a straight piece that’s long enough to go around the container 3-5 times. 
• Squeeze out a wavy ribbon of glue (a bit wider than you want your first color layer – ¾ inch is fine) just above the foundation layer. 

 

Spreading glue - yarn-covered vase project

 

• Smooth the glue with your finger to make a thin, even coating.  Let the glue sit for about 45-60 seconds or until slightly tacky (time to wash your hands).

 

Wrapping yarn - yarn-covered vase project

 

• Lay the yarn in place, starting just above the foundation layer and continuing around the container.  If working with wool (or other stretchy yarn) be sure you don’t stretch the yarn.  Continue to lay the yarn on the glued surface, around and around, until you run out of yarn.  Be sure both ends are firmly glued (use a little extra glue if needed).

 

Smoothing yarn with piece of plastic wrap

 

• Using the piece of plastic wrap, gently push the yarn layers together (down) so there are no gaps where the container shows through.  Then flatten the yarn against the container surface so it adheres to the container.   You will have several minutes before the glue hardens, so take your time.  You can add a little more glue if needed. 
• We suggest letting each layer dry for at least 30 minutes before you add the next layer.   It’s much easier to add a new layer when the one below it is dry.

6. Continue adding color layers, following the steps above, until the container is covered.

 

Completed yarn-covered vase and bottle - yarn craft idea 

 

7. Let the piece dry thoroughly.

8.   Spray with a fixative (optional) to make the vase/bottle/container waterproof.  If using a fixative, we suggest one of the non-toxic varieties. 

 

Yarn-covered vase with dried flowers: yarn is hand-dyed with natural dyes from
California native plants

 

We hope you enjoy this craft and that your unique new vase, bottle or box gives you years of enjoyment.    We like to use our vases with dried flowers.  The vase above has dried seed heads from Giant buckwheat (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/08/plant-of-month-august-st-catherines.html) and flowers from Felt-leaf everlasting (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/09/plant-of-month-september-wrights.html).

 

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We welcome your comments, below.  If you have questions, please e- mail us at: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

Solar Dyeing with Native Plant Trimmings

Fall is pruning time for many Southern California native plants.  You can put your garden trimmings to use as mulch or compost;  or you can use them  to color yarn or fabric.   The easiest material to dye is wool yarn.  The physical/chemical structures of wool fibers allow them to bind natural dyes readily.  We’d like to introduce you to an easy way to dye wool/wool blend yarn using your garden trimmings.  But first, a little background that will help you dye with confidence.

Plant pigments & natural dyes    Plants make a number of colorful compounds called pigments.  People have used these pigments to dye fibers, yarn and cloth for thousands of years.   There are well known natural dye plants; for example, most people know that indigo dye comes from the ‘Indigo Plant’.  The dye potential of other plants – like some California native species – has not yet been fully explored.

Natural dyes can be made from most plant parts.  That being said, some native plants (and some plant parts) make more effective dyes than others.   Commonly used plant parts are leaves, branch tips (leaves and small stems), flowers, roots, bark and wood.  At this time of year, your garden may still have flowers from fall-blooming Sunflowers (Annual Sunflower; Goldenrod; Goldenbushes; Rabbitbush).  These flowers – and those of other yellow and orange ‘sunflowers’  like marigolds and Encelia – make wonderful yellow dyes.  But at this time of year, your best source of dye materials is leaf/stem trimmings.   

With a few exceptions, it’s difficult to predict the color of a dye from the color of the plant or flower.  At least two reasons explain this: 1) most plants make several pigments (only one of which may be obvious to the eye); 2) some pigments change color as they are heated, aged, or are exposed to other chemicals.   This unpredictability actually makes natural dyes more interesting – you are often surprised by the results!

In general, plants/flowers in the Sunflower family produce reliable green, yellow and gold dyes.  Flowers and fruits that are pink, purple or blue usually don’t make good, lasting dyes (the colors are weak and don’t hold up to washing and sun exposure).  Dyes made from yellow or orange flowers – or from leaves and stems/branches – tend to be more permanent.   In general, natural dyes produce softer, less intense colors than those produced by chemical (aniline) dyes.  They have a pretty, old-fashioned appearance that’s easy on the eye and complements human skin tones nicely.

 

Amount of plant material needed     Generally, the more plant material you use, the more intense the dye color.   A good rule of thumb for solar dyeing is about 1-2 gallon-size bags worth of trimmings per 3-4 oz (100 gram) of yarn.  If you are using dried material, you’ll need to use about 2-3 gallons of material to get a good color.   You may need to crush the dried plant material to get it to fit in your pot/jar.

 

Heat & dye release    Plant pigments are mostly contained within plant cells.  The cell walls must be broken down to release the pigment into the dye bath.  The easiest way to do this is to heat the plant material.   Another way is to let the plant material decompose a bit.  Both processes are at work in solar dyeing.  

Wool and wool-blend yarns do not like to be ‘shocked’ by sudden temperature changes.  So always put wool yarn into liquids of a similar temperature (e.g. cool wool into cool water; warm wool into warm dye bath).  When heating wool yarn, use medium heat (or heat from the sun) and simmer – don’t boil – the yarn.

 

A - Red Heart 'Shimmer' - color: Snow - 100% acrylic

B - Lion Brand 'Wool-ease' - color: Natural Healther-98 - 20% wool/80% acrylic

C - Loops & Threads 'Luxury Wool' - color: White - 50% wool/50% acrylic

D - Paton's 'Classic Wool' - color: Aran-00202 - 100% wool

E - KnitPicks 'Bare' - color: bare - 100% wool

E' - same as E, but not mordanted

 

Type of yarn    The type of yarn used greatly affects solar dye projects.  The photo above shows  a dye experiment using five different types of yarn.   Note that the brightest, truest colors come from the yarns with 100% wool content.   The dye uptake generally decreases as the proportion of wool in the yarn decreases.  The 100% acrylic yarn shows only a subtle effect of the dye. 

While 100% wool yarns produce the most predictable results, any yarn with at least 20% wool content will take up some dye.   Results using wool blends can, in fact, be spectacular!  So you may want to experiment with different yarns, including the ‘washable wools’.   

All yarns used in the dye experiment shown above (except yarn ‘E’) are available in local craft/yarn stores.   If you desire, you can order yarn specifically formulated for dying – at very reasonable prices – from KnitPicks (http://www.knitpicks.com/yarns/Dye_Your_Own_Knitting_Yarn__L300110.html.  KnitPicks ‘Bare’ yarns range from very thin (fingering weight) to bulky weight.   In addition to wool, KnitPicks also offers a limited selection of wool/silk blend yarns, wool ‘roving’ (prepared, unspun wool) and washable wool yarns.  The KnitPicks washable wool yarns produce nice bright colors with native plant dyes (see picture below).



Washable yarn: left dyed with Rabbitbush, right dyed with Toyon

 

Mordants   Traditional dyers discovered long ago that treating wool/yarn with certain substances increased the intensity and staying power of natural dyes.  These substances – called mordants – change the wool in subtle ways that make it hold the dye more strongly.   A common mordant used with wool is alum (potassium aluminum sulfate; ‘potassium alum’) or pickling/spice alum (ammonium aluminum sulfate). 

Potassium alum is available from chemical supply companies and on-line from natural dye supply companies like the Woolery (http://www.woolery.com/store/pc/Mordants-Surfactant-Soda-c501.htm).   Pickling alum (ammonium aluminum sulfate) is widely used in foods and other products.  You can sometimes find it in the spice aisle in local grocery stores (sometimes in the Mexican food spice section).   You can also order it on-line quite cheaply (just google ‘pickling alum’ or ‘alum’).   Alum is usually used with another readily available substance – cream of tartar (tartaric acid).  We get ours in a big container at Smart & Final.

Mordants are dissolved in water and then applied to the yarn or cloth.   There are many ways to do this.   We recommend mordanting your yarn before you dye it, to give good, even dye results with solar dyeing.   You can let the sun supply most of the energy and work of mordanting (see instructions below).  

Even though alum is a relatively safe mordant, you’ll want to handle mordants,  mordanted yarns/cloth  and dye materials/dye baths with rubber gloves.   You’ll also need to thoroughly wash all equipment used in the dye process after you’re finished.  If you continue do more than a little natural dyeing you will need a  dedicated set of pots/spoons, etc.  used just for dyeing.   Dye supplies and equipment should be stored away from cooking supplies/equipment.

 

Free movement insures even dye color    When using natural dyes it’s important that the yarn is able to float freely in the dye bath.  This allows all parts of the yarn to come in contact with the dye.   If necessary, add a little extra water to the dye bath to ensure that the yarn floats freely.

 

Disposal of used mordant, dye, rinse water and plant materials   All the spent (used) materials from this project are safe for disposal.  We recommend using the plant materials for mulch or compost.  The spent liquids are mostly water.  You can use them to water your garden plants (best option) or pour them down the drain.

 

Solar Dye Method  The solar dye method is a simple technique that uses a minimum of equipment and energy - and is fun to do.  You can try it with most  native plants commonly grown in local gardens.   You can even use non-native plants, garden vegetable plants and weeds.   Whatever plant you use, be sure to check (on-line is best) that the plant is non-toxic before you use it in solar dye projects.   One of the nice things about plants in the Sunflower family is that they not only are good dye plants but they also are safe to use.

 

Equipment/supplies

 

·         Large, clear glass/plastic jar (at least 24 oz ; gallon size is better) with a lid* - you may need a second, smaller (at least 16 oz.)  clear jar with lid for mordanting

·         Old cooking pot (equivalent or larger volume than the large jar; enamel or stainless steel is best – aluminum is fine)**

·         Old spoon or stick (sturdy; wood or stainless steel best)**

·         Sieve/colander

·         Plastic dishwashing tub or plastic bucket (for rinsing dyed yarn)

·         Kitchen scale or measuring spoons

·         Hot pads

·         Heat source (stove or burner); optional – see Instructions

·         Rubber household gloves

·         Small mesh lingerie washing bag or mesh paint straining cloth (optional); helpful for containing plant materials /straining the dye bath)

·         Wool or wool-blend yarn (natural color/white/un-dyed; at least 20% wool content– 50% or more is best) -  one or two 100-gram (3-4 oz) skeins/hanks).  

·         Native plant clippings (see below for suggestions***); enough to fill your jar about 2/3 full; woody stems  should be cut into 2-3 inch long pieces

 

·         Alum mordant (10% of the weight of the yarn;  for example, if dyeing a 4 oz skein of yarn, you’ll need 10% of the yarn’s weight (0.4 oz) of alum); or use a skimpy Tablespoon of alum per skein.

 

·         Cream of tartar (5% of the weight of the yarn; in the example, you’d need 0.2 oz of Cream of Tartar to mordant the skein of yarn);  or one level teaspoon of cream of tartar per skein.

 

* try Smart & Final                  ** try thrift stores as a good source if you don’t have these 

*** Anything in the Sunflower family (Encelia; Annual Sunflower; Rabbitbush; Coyote Bush; Mule Fat; Goldenbush; CA Sagebrush; Goldenrod; Telegraph Plant; Yarrow);

Black Sage; Toyon; Ceanothus

 

Instructions

 

Preparing the yarn  (can be done ahead of time or several days before the dye bath is ready). 

 

 

Most yarns purchased locally come in 3-4 oz (100 gm) balls.  You’ll need to rewind the yarn into loose skeins/hanks to insure even dyeing.   We find it’s easiest to wind skeins using the back of a chair (see above). 

Once the skein is created, tie the yarn ends together and then tie the skein loosely in three places.  We suggest using natural/white cotton string or crochet cotton - or short pieces of the yarn itself.  Place the tied skein in the plastic wash tub/bucket; soak it in lukewarm tap water while you prepare the mordant.  Be sure to squeeze the yarn to get out the air bubbles – yarn should be thoroughly soaked before it goes into the mordant solution or dye bath.  Most yarns should be soaked at least 30 minutes.

Next, dissolve the alum and cream of tartar in 1 1/2 cups of very hot water (from the tap or heated).  Remember to wear gloves when handling mordant. Stir to completely dissolve, then cool to lukewarm.  Place solution in the either the cooking pot or the smaller jar.   Add the wet yarn and additional tap water (as needed) to cover the yarn.  Swirl yarn gently in the solution.   Cover the pan with plastic wrap (or put the cover on the jar).  Place in a hot, sunny spot for 2-3 days.

Remove the yarn and rinse well in tap water. Gently squeeze the skein to remove the rinse water.  Dry the yarn for later use or put it directly into the prepared dye bath.  You can dry the yarn over a plastic hanger in the bathtub.  Or hang it from a clothes line outside to complete the drying.   The dry, pre-mordanted yarn is good for up to a year; store in a labeled plastic bag until ready to use.

 

Preparing the dye bath

 

The plant material must be small enough to fit through the mouth of the jar.  If needed, cut branches/twigs into 2-3 inch pieces with your pruners.  You can either place the plant material directly into the water or place it first into a mesh lingerie washing bag.   It’s easier to remove the plant materials if you use the mesh bag – but the choice is yours.  The heat won’t affect most laundry bags – if unsure, test the bag in boiling water before using it.

After the plant materials are cut to size, you can proceed in one of two ways: 1) put the plant material in the jar, add tap water to cover and place  in a sunny place for dye extraction, or ; 2) heat the plant material for a short time on the stove/heat source prior to putting it in the jar.  Note: if you are preparing dye from Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia) , Laurel Sumac (Malosma laurina), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Sugarbush (Rhus ovata) or Lemonadeberry (Rhus integrifolia) you should use method 1 or heat the dye bath outdoors.   At high temperatures these plants produce cyanide fumes (smell like bitter almond) which are toxic.  

We recommend method 2 for most plant materials.  Although it uses a little energy, the dyes are more intense.  To pre-heat, put plant materials in the pot and cover them with tap water.   Bring the pot to a boil on high, then turn down the heat and simmer for 20 minutes or until the water shows some color.  Let the dye bath cool to lukewarm/cold and transfer it to the jar.  Cover with the lid (or plastic wrap).

 

 

For both methods,  place the covered jar in a warm/hot sunny place (a sunny window or patio works well).  Let the dye bath develop for 5 to 10 days.  Swirl the water every other day.  You’ll know the dye bath is ready when there’s no more change in color and the plant materials appear tan or pale.

Remove plant materials from the dye bath, then strain out small pieces using a strainer/colander or paint straining cloth.   You now have a prepared dye bath.

 

Dyeing the yarn

Pour the dye bath back into the jar.  If dry, soak the pre-mordanted yarn in lukewarm water for at least ½ hour.   Place wet yarn into the jar and check the liquid level.  If needed, add more water (so the yarn floats freely).  Place the capped jar back in the sun and let the sun’s rays work their magic!  Be sure to swirl the contents of the jar gently every other day.
 

 

In our experience it takes 5-14 days to complete the dye process.  In general, dye uptake is fastest in warm, sunny weather.  But some dyes just take longer.  You’ll know that dyeing is complete when the yarn remains the same color for several days.

Remove the yarn and gently rinse in cool tap water.  Grasp the yarn and rinse using an up-and-down motion.  This rinses and straightens the yarn.  Rinsing is complete when the rinse water remains clear.  Use the rinse water to water your plants.

Hang the dyed yarn up to dry in a dry, shaded place.  Fluff the yarn occasionally as it dries.   Re-wind the yarn into a nice ball.  And now you’re ready to use your newly dyed yarn for knitting, crochet or other craft projects.

 

 

You can access our brief instruction guide at:   http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/solar-dyeing-using-native-plant-trimmings-27255522

Learn more about native plants that can be used for dyes at: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/10/garden-crafts-colors-of-california-dyes.html

We hope you’ll enjoy solar dyeing as much as we do.  Feel free to send your  dyeing questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com .