California’s Fascinating Native Plants-persons

Interest in native plants is growing, as gardeners seek new ways to make their gardens more water-wise and life-friendly. Native plants connect us to the land and its people. And our knowledge of regional plants owes a huge debt to the native plants-persons – the early botanists, naturalists, plant collectors and nursery-persons – who first documented and described these plants. 

California is blessed with an abundance of interesting people connected to native plants. From the 1800’s to the present, these native plants-persons have shaped our knowledge, use and conservation of regional plants.  We’ve featured some of the more interesting in our ‘Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden’ lecture series over the years.  Many are little known, even to persons who work with native plants.

We learned many interesting stories in preparing these talks (they will probably be new to you as well).   And while the lives of some plants-persons are well documented, others required a bit of historical sleuthing and conjecture.  But all can serve as an inspiration and challenge to gardeners, landscape designers and life scientists.   What an amazing, curious and hardy group – may we live our lives half as fully as they!

·         Theodore Payne: the legacy of a CA native plantsman - http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/theodore-payne-2013

·         Lester Rowntree: legacy of an unusual California native plantswoman - https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/lester-rowntree-2014

·         Alice Eastwood: an unusual California botanist and her legacy - http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/alice-eastwood-2015

·         Mary Katharine Brandegee: an unique California botanist and her legacy - http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/katherine-brandegee-2016

·         Leroy Abrams and his Los Angeles flora: https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/leroy-abrams-2017

·         Beatrice F. Howitt and her life with wildflowers - https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/beatrice-f-howitt-talk  

·         S.B. Parish & W.F. Parish: amateur botanists in S. California - https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/parish-2018

To access slides from all of the 2009-2018 lectures in this series (covering a range of California native plant gardening topics) see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/out-of-wilds-and-into-your-garden-talks.html

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

Gardening for Health: 1. Go Hug a Tree for Health?

 

No doubt about it – these are challenging times!  Our cities are becoming crowded, sociopolitical alterations are happening all around us and the earth’s climate is changing faster than anyone thought possible.   This tension-producing mélange is served up to us, 24/7, in the news and on social media.  It’s no wonder we’re feeling a little stressed!   In fact, we’re in serious need of stress relievers – and our gardens, parks and local wildlands can play an important role.

Among the important changes (in the last 20 years) is the decreased amount of time spent outside.  Long work hours, longer commutes, urbanization and increased time spent on-line are partly to blame.  So, too, is the decreasing amount of readily available green space in S. California – from true wildlands to informal suburban ‘green spaces’ like vacant lots.   Even when we’re outdoors, we’re more likely to be in an urban setting, with our eyes glued to our mobile devices.

So, why worry about our lack of quality time spent out-of-doors?  Increasing evidence suggests that humans need certain types of outdoor exposures for their physical, mental, creative and spiritual well-being.  That shouldn’t surprise us: humans have spent most of their existence in places very different from modern cities.  Whether in the wilderness, on farms/ranches or in towns of the past, nature was always just a step away.   Connecting with nature was quick and easy.

For most of human history, people were outdoors much of the time: working, walking, playing, gardening, hunting, etc.   Human bodies became well-adapted to an active life out-of-doors.  It’s not surprising that the rapid switch to our modern, indoor life style makes it difficult for our bodies to cope.  The evidence is all around: increased rates of obesity, hypertension, Type 2 diabetes, anxiety, depression and much more.  Human bodies were meant to be active – and to be out-of-doors.

Some nations are way ahead of the U.S. in terms of understanding the importance of nature to urban life.  Some countries even encourage physicians and other healers to prescribe ‘nature activities’ for their patients.  There is a growing body of scientific evidence that supports the effectiveness of such practices.  And if they work, then why not try them here?  Nature activities certainly are more pleasant, less costly – and with fewer side effects - than most medicines.

Over the next few months we’ll be summarizing some of the evidence regarding nature exposure and human well-being.  We’ll also attempt to apply the evidence to the home garden, suggesting ways to make your garden more relaxing, sustaining and healthful.  We’ll also suggest ways that the whole family can interact with gardens, parks and wildlands to increase enjoyment and well-being.   We hope you’ll want to come along for the journey.

If you’re interested in the nature-health connection, we suggest two provocative books on the subject:

Louv, Richard: The Nature Principle: Reconnecting with Life in a Virtual Age. 2012. Algonquin Books of Chapel Hill.  ISBN: 978-1-61620-141-8.

Williams, Florence: The nature Fix: Why Nature Makes Us Happier, Healthier and More Creative. 2017. W.W. Norton Co.  ISBN: 978-0-393-24271-3

 

More posts in this series:

• http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2018/03/gardening-for-health-2-magic-of-scent.html 

• http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2018/04/gardening-for-health-3-time-and.html

 

 

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

Heat Waves, Shade and Your Health

We’ve experienced some dramatic heat waves this summer.  Temperature records continue to be broken, particularly in the far West.  And heat is not just uncomfortable, it can actually affect your health.  That’s why it’s time for Western gardeners to start taking the subject of shade seriously.

The Southern and Eastern coasts have their hurricanes and floods; the Midwest it’s tornadoes (and floods).  In the West we have our droughts, wildfires – and heat.  Each region experiences extreme weather that can make life miserable, destroy property and yes, kill.  So, we need to prepare for extreme weather.

And the situation isn’t likely to get any better.  In fact, we can expect to experience weather extremes more often in the future. We are already seeing these effects of climate change in every part of the globe, including California.   That’s why planning for extreme heat is important for gardeners throughout the West.  And the time to plan – and act – is NOW.



Native live oaks provide cool, dry shade

 

California’s natural areas can teach us valuable lessons about surviving heat. Visit a  nature preserve or forest on a hot, dry day to directly experience the dramatic difference between sunny areas and nearby shade under trees.  The temperature difference can be as great as 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit (5.5 to 8.3 degrees C.) between the two.  The shade beneath trees is often at least 5 degrees cooler than even the shade produced by man-made structures (porches; canopies).

Why is it cooler in the shade beneath trees? There are several processes at work.  First, the leaves in the tree canopy capture (and use) some of the energy arriving from the sun. Less of the energy is released as heat; and the heat is released from many leaves, some of which are high above the ground.  So less heat reaches the ground.

A porch provides shady seating.

 

In contrast, most man-made structures reflect some of the energy (particularly if coated with a reflective coating), but mostly absorb it and release it as heat.   You can often feel the heat radiating from a roof or wall on a hot day.  So a shady back porch, while cooler than in the sun, is less efficient at releasing heat than is a tree. 

 

Trees provide cooling shade in the Gardena Willows
 Wetland Preserve

 

A second, and more important reason involves a process known as evaporative cooling. On a hot day, plants release water (water vapor) into the surrounding air.  This increases the humidity around the plant, cooling the surrounding air on hot, dry days. Think of plants as Mother Nature’s mist machines – it’s the same principle.   Evaporative cooling is the main reason why you feel cool when sitting under a tree on a hot day.  Of course evaporative cooling works best when the air is dry.  On hot humid days, the effects (alas) are less.

Established trees provide maximum shade and cool.

 

The wisdom of shade trees was well known in past generations.  Native inhabitants took advantage of shady groves and forests during the hot months of summer and fall.  Early settlers and suburban ‘settlers’ planted shade trees among their first improvements.  Before the era of air conditioning, all Westerners knew the value of a good shade tree.  But in some neighborhoods, that wisdom seems to have been lost.

The take home message is clear: if you live in an area that experiences hot, dry conditions you need to invest in large plants, particularly shade trees.  Choose those that are water wise – you have lots to choose from, and many large trees require less water than you think. You might get some ideas here: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2015/09/sustainable-gardening-trees-for.html

 

Blue elderberry provide shady seating.

 

Choose a tree that gives you something to eat: a citrus tree, another garden fruit tree or a Blue elderberry or native cherry.  Or choose a tree/large shrub with other characteristics you like.  A tree can provide food, habitat and beauty in addition to shade.   Make the most of your space by choosing wisely.

Plant the tree next winter, when the ground is moist and a tree has the best chance of getting off to a good start.  Plant it where it will shade your house or provide shady outdoor seating; in our hemisphere, shade is to the north and east of trees.  Give your tree some extra water the first 3-4 years after planting.  It needs to grow and establish a good root system.   

Shade trees help cool a local home.

 

And then, in 4-5 years or perhaps a little more, you will experience the joys of shade in your own yard.  You’ll be thankful when you sit outside – or when the electricity goes out during a heat wave.  You have planned ahead for the inevitable – more hot days, in pretty much every month of the year, in S. California.

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For further reading

http://www.latimes.com/local/cityhall/la-me-climate-health-20160223-story.html

https://weather.com/safety/heat/news/impact-heat-health-20120330

https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/climate-change-future-in-gardens-and-preserves-sierra-club-2017

http://research.atmos.ucla.edu/csrl/LA_project_summary.html

http://www.ucsusa.org/sites/default/files/legacy/assets/documents/global_warming/preparing-for-climate-change-impacts-in-los-angeles.pdf

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

California Gourmet: Homemade Applesauce – Yum!

Apples from an 'Anna' apple tree: home garden, Redondo Beach CA

If you follow our blog, you know that our garden specializes in native plants suitable for S. California gardens. So this topic may surprise you, particularly if you haven’t actually visited Mother Nature’s Backyard garden.  The one non-native plant we grow is an ‘Anna’ apple (Malus domestica), trained as an espalier along our cinderblock wall.  The apple tree demonstrates how native and non-native woody plants can be grown in very narrow spaces.   Since ‘Anna’ is a low-chill apple, it grows well – and produces apples – even in S. California.

'Anna' apple (Malus domestica): Mother Nature's Backyard

Our ‘Anna’ is relative young (6^th year) and most of our apples thus far have been picked by others (human or animal).  Fortunately, one of our members has a mature ‘Anna’ in her backyard – and a bumper crop of apples this year.  So this is a good time to talk about making homemade applesauce.  It’s easy, fun and we think the product is superior to the store-bought version, both in taste and nutrition.

Making applesauce is really simple.  Back in the day (1950’s and 60’s), girls learned to make applesauce in home economics class (too bad for the guys – they had to take wood shop!).  I suspect that many older readers learned to make this treat in school.  And if 7^th grade girls in the Pomona Unified School District managed to make applesauce, then you can too!  It’s a great way to use a bumper crop (or less-than-perfect) apples.  And applesauce that’s been properly preserved can be safely stored at room temperature for 1-2 years – another benefit.

Applesauce can be made from any type of apple.  You can purchase your favorite type – or use whatever apples you have available (you can even mix varieties).   You can also make your applesauce as sweet as you like, by adding the appropriate amount of sugar or other sweetener.  You can also add spices (cinnamon; ginger; etc.) or other fruits, if desired.  In short, you can tailor your applesauce to the needs and tastes of the applesauce eaters.  

Homemade applesauce is delish!

Here’s our homemade applesauce recipe, with some notes and tips below.

 

Ingredients

Apples (any amount, but at least 6-8 apples)

Water (to cover apples in pot)

Sugar or other sweetener (to taste)

Spices or other fruits (berries) – optional, to taste

Directions

1.   Thoroughly wash apples.  Cut out any damaged areas.   Quarter and remove stem and seeds (we leave the skins on for better flavor).  Slice the quarters into ¼ inch slices; place slices in heavy pot or saucepan (large enough to fit all the apple slices with about 2 inches to spare)*.

2.   Fill pot with water to barely cover the apple slices.

3.   Heat pot on medium-high heat on stove until water starts to boil.  Stir occasionally.  Turn down the heat and simmer until the apples are cooked (mushy texture)*.   Stir as needed to keep mixture from burning on the bottom.

4.   Remove from heat.  Mash the hot apple mixture through a sieve (use a spoon and be careful – it’s hot!).   An easier way is to process the apple mixture using a food mill.*    The texture will now be smooth and ‘applesauce-like’ (but a bit runny).

5.   Return the apple mixture to the pot.  Add sweetener and spices (and/or berries) to taste.  

6.   Heat over low heat, stirring regularly, until mixture is the consistency you like. Be sure that the mixture comes to a boil (to kill any microbes).

7.   If preserving, ladle hot mixture into sterilized jars, cap with two-part canning lids and process in boiling water bath (10 minutes for elevations below 1000 ft.; add 1 additional minute for each 1000 ft. above 1000 ft.)*.   Store preserved applesauce in a cool, dark place (room temperature) for up to 2 years.

8.   If not preserving, cool the applesauce, then store in a closed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks (if not gobbled up long before).  

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*Notes:

1.   Here’s what the sliced apples should look like.  They cook quickly if sliced.

3.   Here’s what the cooked apple ‘mush’ looks like at this point

Cooked apples ready to puree

4.   The food mill is a great piece of equipment if you do a lot of puree work. It’s a simple, old-fashioned tool and uses no electricity.  Food mills are made by a number of manufacturers and available in stores and online.  We use the Foley mill; it’s sturdy and lasts a lifetime.  Here’s what ours looks like.

A food mill makes quick work of the puree step

7.   For more on preserving food see: http://nchfp.uga.edu/  and https://extension.psu.edu/food-safety-and-processing/home-food-safety/canning-and-freezing

 

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We encourage you to send us your questions, comments and recipes (either comment below or e-mail to us at : mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

Help! The Leaves on My Evergreen Toyon (Ceanothus, Coffeeberry, etc.) are Turning Yellow!

 

Yellowing leaves on California coffeeberry (Frangula californica)

It’s May, June or early July.  The days are warm and the garden’s transitioning from spring to summer.  Suddenly, you notice yellow leaves on your evergreen shrubs.  If the shrubs have been thriving all spring, the appearance of yellow leaves can be surprising and alarming.

Take a deep breath.  Then carefully examine your shrub.  Are the yellow leaves larger and older?  Lower on the branches (closer to the trunk)?  Are the yellow leaves scattered throughout the foliage (not concentrated on a single branch)?   Are healthy new leaves emerging?  If so, your shrub is likely exhibiting a normal seasonal process – summer leaf drop.
 

Note that the larger, older leaves are yellowing
 on this 'Ray Hartman' ceanothus

 

 Evergreen plants lose their leaves, just like deciduous plants.  But they lose them less frequently – and not all-at-once.  Shedding old leaves is but one way that woody plants conserve their resources.  Old leaves are often less productive. They are also more likely to be unhealthy.  In short, senescent leaves become a drain on the plant. They simply require more resources than they make, an unfavorable cost-benefit ratio.

And so, evergreen plants shed their old leaves, but not haphazardly.  They usually recycle mineral nutrients and plant chemicals before they jettison an old leaf.  The declining leaf then produces less green chlorophyll, becomes yellow (or orange) and ultimately separates from the branch at a special site called the abscission layer.  The process is relatively safe and painless for the plant; the abscission layer ‘walls off’ the leaf scar on the branch, preventing disease.   And the senescent leaf simply drops off – its work complete.

Older toyon leaf turning yellow & red.  Note disease.

 

Evergreen plants drop their old leaves at different times of the year. Some lose them, a little at a time, throughout the year.  But many large California native shrubs, particularly those from the chaparral, lose their leaves in late spring/early summer, before the dry season begins in earnest. This allows them to channel their energy into summer growth and drought avoidance.  So summer leaf drop is perfectly coordinated with our challenging mediterranean climate.

Coffeeberry leaves provide summer leaf color.

 

So what’s a gardener to do?  If you have a big garden event that requires an immaculate garden (a garden wedding?  a visit from the queen?) then gently remove the leaves just prior to the event.  This will improve the appearance and won’t harm the plant.  Otherwise, sit back and let nature take her course.

Enjoy a bit of ‘summer leaf color’.  Let the leaves fall naturally, creating a native leaf mulch to support your many soil creatures. Savor the yearly changes associated with our natural heritage.  Summer leaf drop is, after all, part of the cycle of seasons in a California native garden.

 

 

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

Growing California Native Plants in Containers

Hybrid Monkeyflower thrives on afternoon shade on our porch

Container growing has many practical advantages.  Containers permit gardening in tiny places – even those with no accessible earth. Growing plants in containers can be easier for those with physical or time constraints.  Container gardening allows the gardener to tailor-make the growth medium to the needs of the plant. It also makes it possible to grow plants with very different water needs side by side.

Container gardening also has aesthetic benefits.  Carefully chosen containers increase the beauty of many gardens.  A well-placed container can serve as an accent or focal point; it can also provide attractive aromas or attract favorite pollinators.  Groupings of container plants can soften a stark wall, entry way or awkward corner.     Well-planned containers can even provide a spot of color for most of the year.

 

Camas bulbs are lovely in containers

 

But the big question for native plant gardeners is: can I grow my native plants in containers?  The answer is an enthusiastic but qualified yes.  We’ve grown a number of California natives in containers – and learned a few things along the way.  Here are a few tips for those considering container gardening with native plants.

1.   Start with the easy ones. Some plants are made for containers. We suggest starting out with the easy ones, then graduating to those that require more skill, time and patience.   Annual wildflowers, perennials from bulbs and corms, ferns and grasses/grass-like plants (rushes, sedges, reeds, cattails) are a good place to start.   Next easiest are the herbaceous perennials.   The most challenging (and those that require more work) are the larger woody shrubs and small trees.

 

Plants that require summer water - like these wetland plants
 - are easy to grow in containers

 

2.   Plants that tolerate some (or regular) summer water are easier than those that like to be dry.   In nature, many California native plants have extensive root systems, allowing them to utilize both shallow and deep soil moisture.  In containers, it’s easy to over-water plants that normally require no summer irrigation.

Pots of spring-flowering annuals and native bulbs (which must be summer dry) can be stored in a cool dry place over summer.  Other summer-dry container plants, including many Dudleyas, can watered sparingly if plants are moved to a shadier location.  But some summer-dry species, like White Sage, are very difficult to grow in containers in S. California.   Avoid trees and shrubs with strict summer-dry requirements.

3.   Avoid plants with very deep taproots.   These woody plants survive summer drought by tapping into water reserves deep underground.  No container is deep enough to mimic these natural conditions; such plants are easy to over-water in containers.   Plants with shallower taproots (for example, perennials like the California poppy) can be successfully grown in deep pots.

 

Lilac verbena likes some afternoon shade

 

4.   Plants that tolerate part-shade or shade are easier than plants that require full sun.  Containers in full sun – and the planting medium they contain – get hotter than garden soil.  And excess heat stresses plant roots and can ultimately kill a plant. 

There are some work-arounds, if you need to container garden in full sun.  Light colored pots, larger pots, and those with thick walls remain cooler.  Probably the best solution is double-potting (cache-potting). Be sure that the inner pot (the one which contains the plant) has a diameter several inches smaller than that of the outer pot.  Fill the space between the pots with vermiculite – or those plastic packing ‘peanuts’ – to insulate the inner pot.  

But the easiest solution, in hot mediterranean climate gardens, is to locate pots in shadier places – or at least move pots to shadier locations in summer/early fall.  Fortunately, many California native plants do fine in part-shade or filtered sun.  These include many annual wildflowers, perennials from bulbs/corms, herbaceous perennials, ferns, woodland shrubs and many others.

We suggest you try moving pots to a slightly shadier location during the hot months.  You can always move a plant back to a sunnier spot if it starts to get leggy.

5.   Choose the right size plant for the space, usually based on growth rate and mature size.  This advice applies universally, but is particularly important when choosing a native plant for a small area.  It’s much easier – and better for the plant – to choose one that’s the appropriate size.  Fortunately, smaller cultivars of many native favorites are becoming available.  Ask the advice of your native plant nursery-person.  They may be able to suggest good alternatives

 

Many natives growing in pots are on display at Rancho
 Santa Ana Botanic Garden, Claremont, CA

 

6.   Choose the appropriate container based on root characteristics. Both the size and the shape of the container can be important for growing natives successfully.  Garden ‘bulbs’, annual wildflowers and some perennials (ferns; succulents; many herbaceous perennials) have relatively shallow roots, and can be grown in a wide variety of containers.  For S. California, we suggest choosing containers at least 10-12 inches in diameter and deep; smaller sizes are too difficult to keep watered in our increasingly dry, windy climate.

Native shrubs and trees – even the smaller ones – require more care in selecting an appropriate container.  Many of them have relatively deep roots, in addition to the net-like shallow roots.  For them, choose a pot that’s deep enough to allow the roots to grow.  A deeper pot will also allow you to water more appropriately.  You can let the surface layer dry out between waterings, better mimicking natural conditions.

Learn as much as you can about a plant’s root system before choosing a container.  Ask your local native plant nursery-person for advice.  They may be able to suggest specific pots for the plant you’ve chosen.  More container choices – including deep containers – are becoming available each year.

7.   Tailor the growth mix to plant requirements.  Being able to tailor the growing medium to a plant’s needs is a major advantage of growing plants in containers.  We like to start with a basic potting mix; in our area, Kellogg’s All Natural Potting Mix or Kellogg’s Native Smart Planting Mix are good choices.  You can then amend the medium as needed, for your plants particular needs. 

To create a quicker draining mix add perlite; for a moisture-retaining mixture add vermiculite.  A sandy mixture can be achieved by adding some sharp (builders) sand, crushed rock (like decomposed granite) or lava rock.  For an excellent review of soil amendments see reference 1, below.

A richer, lower-pH soil (appropriate for forest-floor plants like native Huckleberries) requires the careful addition of peat moss, pine or redwood bark fines (finely ground pieces) or humus.   We suggest testing the pH of the potting soil before and after adding ph-lowering amendments, to be sure your mixture is in the appropriate range.  Test kits or pH paper are readily available in nurseries or where pool supplies are sold.

 

Native Wild rose (Rosa californica) likes regular summer
water  if grown in a containers

 

8.   Monitor soil moisture carefully, particularly in extremely wet and extremely dry conditions.  Plants in pots are more vulnerable to both extremes than plants grown in the ground.   If possible, move pots to a drier location if plants seem to be ‘drowning’ during periods of excess rain.  Keep close watch on your containers during hot, dry and windy conditions.  Even large pots can dry out in a hurry.  We sometimes water even large pots every other day – even daily – during the hottest times.

9.   Give container plants a little fertilizer.  The roots of plants grown in the ground continually reach out to obtain mineral nutrients.  Container-bound plants have no such option.  Even the least-hungry pot-grown native will need a little fertilizer sometimes.

Base your fertilizer regimen on the needs of individual plant species.  Those described as growing in ‘nutrient-poor soils’ won’t need much.  Start off with a once yearly dose of ½ strength liquid fertilizer.    You can always fertilize more often, if plants become nutrient deficient.

No need to buy unusual (or expensive) fertilizer (unless your plant requires a low-pH type).  We like the general purpose, liquid or water-soluble fertilizers; you can easily mix them with water to create a half-strength solution. Fertilize when the plant begins to actively grow – often in late winter or spring.

Plants that grow in leaf mulch on the forest floor, and those from riparian communities, like a richer soil.  You may want to try incorporating a time-released fertilizer into the potting soil each year.  We suggest starting with about half the recommended amount – you can always add more.  Just loosen the top few inches of soil and incorporate the fertilizer.  Alternatively, use the liquid fertilizer (half strength) several times during the growing season. 

 

Yerba mansa (Anemopsis californica) is a decorative
groundcover  that can be grown in a container

 

10.        Repot or replace container plants as needed.  If you’ve grown plants in containers, you probably recognize the signs that a plant needs repotting: the roots or plant are over-filling the pot, flowering decreases and the foliage may look a little less healthy.   You can often carefully lift a plant out of the pot to check if roots are becoming crowded.

Repotting a native is no different from repotting other plants.  Let the potting medium dry out a bit to ease removal.  Then carefully remove the plant, divide it (if appropriate) or replant in a larger container.  Plants that can be divided include native ‘bulbs’, grasses/grass-like perennials and those that reproduce via rhizomes or root sprouting.  Such perennials are frequently used as groundcover plants, but can also be grown in containers.  For more information on repotting perennials see ref. 2, below.

For more information on repotting native ‘bulbs’ see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html

When repotting woody natives into a larger pot, we suggest upgrading to a pot of at least 6 inches larger diameter.  That way you won’t need to repot as often. Loosen the soil around the roots, and remove as much old medium as can be easily removed.  Prune off any roots that encircle the pot, and loosen other roots.  Then use fresh potting medium when planting into the new pot.

If you need to repot a woody plant back into the same pot, you’ll need to prune/thin the roots. This is done in the same way for native or non-native species. For more on repotting techniques see references 3-5, below.

 

The informal shape of Euphorbia misera works well with
 a traditional Mediterranean-style container

 

11.        Choose container styles that complement the plants and your architectural/garden style.  Containers can provide unique and stylish accents – or just fade into the background, letting plants play the starring role. Choose containers that work with your style/design and either complement or highlight the plants they contain.   Consider foliage, flower color and growth characteristics of the plants when selecting containers.

Attractive containers are now available in all price ranges. Or unusual, recycled ‘containers’ may be just what your garden needs. Think about the role you’d like the containers to play before you purchase.   You’ll likely be living with your choices for a while.

12.        Choose plants with ‘added value’.  When choosing between plants, select the one that provides food, habitat, medicine, craft materials and/or scent over one that is simply pretty.  Make the most of your limited space; that’s smart, sustainable gardening at its best!

For more on growing native plants in containers see:

Planning a Pot: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/container-gardening-2014  

Captivating Containers:  http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/container-gardens-2015

Native Foods on the Small Side:   http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/container-gardens-edibles-2016-final

Beautiful Bowls: containers for color through the year:   http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/beautiful-bowls-2017f

 

 

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1. http://extension.umd.edu/sites/extension.umd.edu/files/_images/programs/hgic/Publications/HG42_Soil_Amendments_and_Fertilizers.pdf
2. https://www.todayshomeowner.com/how-to-repot-houseplants/
3. http://www.wikihow.com/Repot-a-Plant
4. http://www.finegardening.com/how-repot-container-plants
5. http://www.hgtv.com/design/outdoor-design/landscaping-and-hardscaping/repotting-an-overgrown-shrub

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com