Designing Your New California Garden: 10. Walkways, Seating Areas and Other Hardscape

This month and next we discuss hardscape – the non-living elements of the garden design. If you’re just joining the ‘Designing Your New California Garden’ series, we suggest you start at the beginning (July 2013 - http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/07/designing-your-new-california-garden-1.html) and work forward.  The monthly activities will help you design an attractive, functional, sustainable and water-wise garden.

 

Technically, the water management system is included in the hardscape plan.  Because the ‘New California Garden’ emphasizes water sustainability, we considered the management of rainwater (February 2014) and irrigation water (March 2014) separately.  You might want to review these posts before continuing.

 

Introduction

‘Hardscape’ includes all the non-plant parts of the garden design, from walls/fences, walkways and seating areas to water features and garden art.  Hardscape elements are often added to a garden over time, without an over-arching plan guiding their selection.  Designing a new garden – or remaking an old one – provides an opportunity to rethink the hardscape.  And that can have important implications for the overall appearance and functionality of the garden.

 

Next month (June 2014) we’ll consider garden design; this month we focus on the functional aspects of hardscape.  But it’s nearly impossible to divorce functionality from aesthetics.  As you consider hardscape options, look at examples in your neighborhood, in books and on the internet.  Visit the local building supply store and nursery to see what options are available.   Take pictures and notes about hardscape solutions you like.  These will be invaluable when you finalize the hardscape plans next month

 

You’ll notice that some materials and items appear formal while others have an informal or casual appearance.  Garden designs run the gamut from extremely formal to very informal; choosing the right hardscape depends in part on knowing where your garden falls along the continuum. Preference for formal or informal style is highly personal.  If you haven’t determined your family’s preference yet, now would be a good time to do so: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/01/designing-your-new-california-garden-8.html

 

This month we’ll just develop a rough map of hardscape features and their approximate locations in the garden.  Next month we’ll develop a final map and hardscape plan.  Don’t be surprised if it takes you several months to complete your hardscape plan.  Hardscape encompasses a number of elements – and there are functional and aesthetic considerations for each.  Take as long as you need to develop a plan that ‘feels right’. Remember, you are designing the framework for your garden and that takes time.   

 

This month’s exercise will involve a lot of thought and research.  So get out your Garden Notebook, several clean copies of your site map and a pencil to sketch in possible locations and make notations.  

  

Fences, Walls, Screens and Gates

Homes in Western Los Angeles County tend to have small yards.  Close neighbors, pets and less-than-optimal views mean that many local gardens use walls, fences, screens and hedges to keep living things in/out – or block objectionable views.  Your yard may already have a perimeter wall or fence (located on/near the boundary between two properties).  If so, you may need only to inspect and complete necessary repairs.

 

If you don’t have a perimeter wall/fence – or if you detest the current one – first determine whether you need one at all.  Perhaps your front yard no longer needs to be fenced for children or pets; or an aged hedge is past being functional or attractive.  If so, mark them for removal.   If a fence/wall is required, several functional issues should be considered:

 

·       How strong/durable will it need to be?

·       How long will it need to last?   Do you need a permanent fence, or just a temporary screen until shrubbery/hedge has grown to size?

 

·       Does it need to be solid or could it allow for air circulation (for example a hedge, lattice-work or other open-work fence)?

·       What municipal or county codes regulate height, setbacks and construction?

·       How much do you want to spend on the project?

·       What type of materials work best with your house design?  Your neighborhood?

·       Do you want to install it yourself or have it installed professionally?

 

·       How much maintenance will it require?  Costs?

 

·       Do you want your fence/wall to be hardscape only,   a planted hedge or some combination (shrubs in front of a fence or vines on a lattice fence)

 

·       Do you want your fence/wall to stand out or blend into the distance?    We’ll discuss how you can accomplish either goal, by using color, in next month’s installment.

 

In addition to the garden perimeter, walls/fences and hedges are useful as screens to block unsightly views.  For example, a screen of shrubs might be placed to hide views of a garden shed, trash barrels or the side of a neighbor’s garage.  

 

Hedges and screens can also be used to create outdoor rooms or to guide one through the garden.  As we’ll learn next month,  breaking a yard up into smaller ‘rooms’ can make even a small garden appear larger.  Look at your “Physical Features Map’ and ‘Use Areas Map’.   Are there areas that would benefit from a screen/hedge?    If so, pencil them in.

 

 Shown above are the final ‘Use Area/Bubble’ Map and the ‘Physical Features’ Maps for 112 Willow Street.   The yard has a 5 ft. tall perimeter fence in the backyard – in good condition – and 2 ft. tall block walls on either side of the front yard.  The homeowner is happy with these and chooses to retain them.

 

Because the ‘Maintenance’ and ‘Quiet Meditation’ areas are located near the front yard, the homeowners consider adding short fence/gates between the house/garage and the front walls for privacy and access.   They pencil them in, with a note to think about them over the next month.

 

  

Sheds, Storage Buildings and Containers

Many gardens require outdoor storage.  Here are some things you’ll want to consider when choosing a shed/storage building:

 

• How big will it need to be?  If you have the space, consider going a little bit larger than current needs require

• How tall?  Will it need to contain long-handled garden tools? Other tall equipment like umbrellas, ladders, etc.)?

 

• What materials should it be made of?  Wood looks nice but will need painting; metal is durable (in our climate); sturdy plastic sheds are inexpensive and low maintenance.

 

• Location: should be handy, but not where it’s an eyesore or impedes traffic flow

• Will it be custom-built or pre-fabricated/ready-to-assemble?

 

• Will you build/assemble it or will you hire a professional?

• Cost constraints?

 

The gardeners at 112 Willow St. are scaling back, replacing an old 8 x 10 ft metal shed with something smaller.  They’ve cleaned out the old shed, but  still need space for a reel mower (to cut the new lawn) long-handled garden tools (rakes/shovels, etc.), potting supplies (pots; soil), irrigation supplies, fertilizers, limited pesticides and the patio seat cushions (during the rainy season). 

 

Placement of the storage shed(s) is easy – it belongs in the Maintenance Area.  The best place appears to be along the back of the garage.   This area can accommodate a shed(s) up to 10 ft long (total), as wide as 3 ft and as tall as needed.  The gardeners do need to consider where the trash cans will go in the Maintenance Area.  There are three (garbage, recyclables and green waste – each 2.5 ft x 2.5 ft) and they may impact how much space is available for the shed(s).

 

 

After careful consideration, the homeowners realize that the green waste and trash containers could be stored along the perimeter wall near the garden; this would be handy for daily use and for trash day.  The recycle container could fit next to the new shed(s), leaving space for a 6-7 ft x 3 ft shed.  The gardeners also realize that the patio seat cushions might be stored on the patio – perhaps in a low storage container that doubles as a table.    They pencil in the rough location of containers and shed(s).

 

The storage sheds won’t need to be particularly attractive; for the most part they’re hidden from view.  The homeowners will need to decide how much they want to spend, the size needed and whether they want a pre-fab/ready-to-assemble or not.   They explore the possibilities on-line and at the local building supply stores.

  

Patios and Seating Areas

 

In S. California we’re fortunate to be able to ‘live outdoors’ much of the year.  As the climate becomes hotter, shady outdoor living areas will become more important.  We’ll likely be doing even more outdoor living.

 

112 Willow Street is fortunate to have a screened patio with a roof and concrete floor.  It’s shaded in summer and protected from rain in winter.  The family uses it for sitting, playing, parties and outdoor dining.  They won’t need to do anything to the patio.

 

If you don’t have a patio/seating area, you may want to build or create one.  In fact, it may already appear on your ‘Functional Area/Bubble’ map.   Here are some things to consider:

 

• What activities do you want to do there?  Placement, construction and furnishings will be different for a routinely-used al fresco dining area vs. an area used for occasional seating.

• What is the most convenient placement?  This is particularly important for regularly used areas.  An outdoor dining/entertaining area should be near the kitchen and living room if possible.  A sauna/hot tub area might be located off the master bedroom or bath.

• Will you need outdoor cooking facilities? electricity?  heaters for winter?  access to drinking or irrigation water?

• How will you provide shade?  A roof, ramada, retractable awning or a well-placed tree are all possibilities. More attractive shade options are coming on the market all the time. You can see an number of these on the internet.  Remember, it’s going to be hotter in the future – shade will be a must!

• How flat and firm must the surface be?   Dining areas and those with heavy foot travel usually require a hard, flat surface; other areas are fine with grass, crushed rock, decomposed granite or even mulch.

 

 

 

The new garden at 112 Willow St. has two informal seating areas: one designated the ‘Shady Seating Area’ under the tree and other in the ‘Quiet/Meditation’ area.  Neither of these are high foot travel areas; mulch, a low walk-on ground cover or crushed rock could be used in these places.  Both areas are already shady – that was part of the logic in locating them where they are.  The homeowners will think about the type of seating appropriate for each area and explore options on-line and at local public gardens.  

  

Planters, Raised Beds and Containers

 

Planters, raised beds and containers (pots; window boxes; etc.) can make a garden more attractive and emphasize a garden’s theme.  They can also improve functionality.  For example, planters can be used to create a level planting surface on gentle slopes or to provide better drainage.  Raised beds make garden tasks easier for young gardeners or those with physical limitations.

 

Most California gardeners are well acquainted with planters; they are common in local gardens.  Traditional planters made of brick or concrete are found in many older gardens and can still be a good idea.  In more natural gardens rocks, cut stone, ‘urbanite’ (chunks of concrete paving) or fabricated ‘stones’ make natural-looking planters and raised beds.  Planters – or even slightly raised, edged beds – can also provide a formal look if that is desired.

 

Raised beds make excellent sense in a vegetable garden.  They concentrate water and nutrients, keep vegetables clean and help dissuade slugs and snails.  They also make it easier to plant, weed, provide plant support and harvest the crops.  Raised beds can be made to a convenient height – even allow the gardener to work from a seat or wheelchair.   Raised beds are becoming popular in many parts of the country, including California.   You might want to consider them for vegetables or flowers.

 

The garden at 112 Willow St. will have a vegetable garden with raised beds. The area is 14 ft. by 24 ft.  In March we considered several layouts for the vegetable garden; the gardeners have settled on the one below. 

 

 

The gardeners explore plans for raised beds on-line and learn that 3 ft. is the best width to provide easy access.   There is room for four beds, each 3 ft. x 8 ft., with 2 ½ ft. walkways; there’s still space for water storage container(s) at the north end of the garden as planned.  

 

The gardeners have many choices of design and materials, ranging from fairly inexpensive, home-made models to more expensive purchased kits or custom-built raised beds.  Some kits are available locally – others will have to be ordered from gardener’s supply companies.  To learn more, there are extensive resources on-line.  Good how-to books are available at building supply stores and your local library.

  

Walkways, Paths and Driveways

 

Once the big hardscape elements (above) are located, the next step is planning the walkways, paths and driveways.  Most S. California homes already have a driveway, so you’ll likely not be changing its location.  However, you may want to consider making it more permeable.

 

 Walkways and paths are often updated when a garden is re-designed.  Whether you’re starting new or re-modeling an established garden, consider motor and foot traffic carefully.  In most small yards, motor vehicle traffic is confined to the driveway.  However families with boats or other parked vehicles – or jobs/hobbies needing vehicular access – require careful planning. 

 

Foot traffic also requires thoughtful deliberation.   Walkways in the wrong place, areas that are inaccessible and paths poorly constructed are not just annoying, they can be dangerous!   Look closely at your hardscape map.  What areas will receive the most foot traffic?  What is the easiest route?  Will you need to wheel garden equipment or trash cans from one place to another?  Will you need occasional access into planted areas for garden maintenance?   Do you want to direct foot traffic away from delicate plants or to a water feature or statue?

 

We suggest getting out in the garden and walking the possible pathways.  You can even locate major hardscape areas with string to make the exercise more real.  Remember, if you’re converting lawn areas to something planted, you’ll now need to provide access across those areas.  We sometimes forget how often we walk across our lawns!

 

Municipal or county codes usually cover the size and construction of major walkways, such as the walkway to the front door.  They may also specify requirements for other walkways and paths.  Neighborhood covenants sometimes also limit the materials and colors permissible.  Be sure that you – or your contractor – know and follow the regulations.

 

We’ve posted an article on ‘Harvesting Rain: Permeable Paths, Patios and Driveways’ (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/06/harvesting-rain-permeable-paths-patios.html ).   You might want to read it before you continue.

 

The garden at 112 Willow St. won’t need much in the way of new pathways.  The vegetable garden, utility area and driveway area will be covered in either mulch (vegetable garden) or crushed rock.  The crushed rock is a better choice than gravel for the Utility Area and driveway.  It can be compacted to provides a hard level surface for walking and rolling trash bins across.   The ‘New Lawn’ provides access to most of the backyard and the ‘Butterfly Garden’ is a narrow bed that can be accessed easily.

 

 

The area leading to the ‘Quiet/meditation Area’ will be planted, so some sort of pathway is needed.  This is will not be a highly traveled path, but the area may be damp in winter.  The gardeners plan to use large (2 or 2 ½ ft) pavers to create a semi-formal path.  They will visit their building or landscape supply store to see what options are available.

 

Arbors, Arches and Pergolas

 

Arches, arbors and pergolas are sometimes employed in S. California gardens.  They are not for every garden, but can be effective in certain situations.  An arch can be used as an entrance to the garden or to areas that are treated as separate garden ‘rooms’.  Arbors and pergolas provide shade and are a good place to grow grapes, native Honeysuckles and other fragrant vines.   They often include seating areas.

There are dozens of designs, plans and pictures of arbors, arches and pergolas on the internet.  If interested, we suggest you start there. These are strong design elements.  They may dominate the garden landscape and are often used to make a large garden seem smaller.  If you have a small yard – and still want to include these elements - we suggest you keep them small, darker colored and in proper scale for the size of your yard.

  

Trellises

Trellises are often used to provide support for vines and trailers, although lattice and other trellises are being used alone in contemporary gardens.  They can be used to create shade, cover a wall/fence or provide a visual screen.    They are particularly useful in narrow spaces or as stand-alone elements in the interior of the garden.   Things to consider when choosing a trellis:

 

• Strength: is it strong enough to provide support for a mature vine?

 

• Attachment: where/how will you attach it?  Will the attachment be strong enough

 

• Design : trellises can be a strong design element.  Choose design, materials and color to complement the garden design

 

• Materials : there are many choices; consider appearance, cost and maintenance

As discussed in previous episodes, the side of the neighbor’s garage is an eyesore in the 112 Willow garden.  It presents a design challenge for the Quiet/Meditation area, which is narrow and fairly shady.  After considering several options, the gardeners decide to grow a vine screen to block the view.  They can either erect a free-standing trellis or attach one to the existing wall.  Local building code specifies that fences/walls can be no taller than 6 ft.   But an open lattice trellis could be taller – perhaps 7-8 ft – and nicely block the view.  They pencil in a trellis that will conceal the neighbor’s garage.

 

 

 

 

For more inspiration on trellises, search the internet and visit well-stocked local garden stores.   Trellises can be beautiful and functional.  They have come back in style for a reason – they are useful in contemporary gardens.

  

Mulch and Non-living Groundcovers

 

A mulch is simply a protective layer of materials placed over the soil, primarily to modify the effects of the local climate.  Mulching is an integral part of water-wise gardening; but mulches are used for a number of other purposes including heat regulation and aesthetics.

Like all other types of hardscape, mulch should be suited to the garden conditions.  These conditions certainly include the types of plants you plan to grow.  But the conditions also include aesthetic and even cultural considerations.  For example, many mulches are available in different colors and textures.  You need to consider which is best for the look of your garden.  For example, if your garden design has a Mediterranean/Italian influence, you may want to use an appropriate crushed gravel mulch – at least in part of the garden.  You may even want to use mulches in areas of your garden that have no plants at all!     On the other hand, a ‘natural’ garden with Coastal Sage Scrub plants will look best – and thrive with – a thin mulch of wood chippings.

We have written an extensive post on mulches in S. California gardens.  It describes the use of mulch, types of mulch and other considerations.  It discusses the use of mulch for different types of California native plants.  We suggest you read Understanding Mulches - http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/07/understanding-mulches_23.html

The best advice when considering mulches is to look at various materials on-line, then go to a local building supply source and see the materials first hand.  You may be able to take small samples of the materials how to see how you like them in the garden.

 

 

Water Features

 

Water features are decorative hardscape elements that feature the sight, sound and sometimes the feel of water.  Included in the category are decorative ponds and pools, waterfalls, constructed ‘streams’ with re-circulating water and fountains of all sizes and types.    Water features are treasured in hot climates because they give the illusion of coolness.   As our climate heats up, you may want to consider a small, water-wise water feature.

 

Solar-powered bubbler fountain - Mother Nature's Backyard

 

 

As with arches and pergolas, scale is important.  A large, ornate fountain or massive waterfall will look out of place in a small garden.  But even the tiniest garden can include a small fountain – even a miniature waterfall – to give as sense of cool.  In Mother Nature’s Backyard, we constructed a simple bubbler fountain from two large glazed pots.  The scale is right, the pump is solar powered, and the fountain is quite water-wise (requires re-filling with 1 gallon a week during the hottest weather).  People are instinctively drawn to the fountain.  Birds love to drink and bath in the splash; some even fly through the water in hot weather!

 

In S. California, large gardening/home improvement stores carry a selection of ready-made fountains;  most are ready to place, fill and plug in the pump.  Most re-circulating fountains require an electrical outlet; but solar-powered pumps and fountains are available on-line.  Local nurseries also stock fountains and can suggest local businesses that will create custom fountains, pools and other water features.   

 

Garden Art

 

Garden art is very personal.  Art is an important part of some gardens – in fact some gardens are built to house a treasured sculpture, mosaic or other piece of art.  Other gardens have no art at all.   The best gardens follow the old adage – less is more. 

 

Included in ‘garden art’ are statues, other sculpture, sundials, decorative birdbaths, mosaics and decorative tiles, pebble mosaics, decorative signage or light fixtures and more.  Garden art should reflect your taste; it may also reflect your cultural or family heritage.  Garden art can provide just the right accent to make a garden appear authentic, alive, unique.

 

Garden ‘art’ can include artful objects from nature: an attractive boulder, interestingly shaped log or branch, shells or pebbles, other found objects.  Japanese gardens are well known for their use of natural objects in gardens.

 

Garden art can be invaluable for difficult parts of the garden, such as areas of deep shade where nothing will grow.  A light-colored statue can be just the ticket – lovely, water-wise and low maintenance.

 

You needn’t have a specific piece in mind when you design the garden.  In fact, sometimes it’s best to wait and see what the garden itself requires.  Leave room for a sundial or small statue if you wish.  You’ll ultimately come across the perfect piece for the space.

 

 

 

 

We value your comments (below).    You can also contact us directly at mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com.

 

Mother Nature's Backyard Featured on South Bay Water-wise Garden Tour

Water-wise gardening is a good way to decrease water use and save money.  The fourth annual South Bay Water-Wise Garden Tour demonstrates just how unique and beautiful water-wise gardens can be.  This year’s tour is scheduled for Sunday, May 18^th from 10:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m.  Discover the beauty and pristine look of South Bay gardens that embrace the water wise gardening philosophy.  Learn how to lower your water bill, help the environment (by saving water), encourage wildlife and lower your maintenance efforts.    The self-guided tour features 10 gardens in El Segundo, Gardena, Hermosa Beach, Lomita, Manhattan Beach, Palos Verdes, Redondo Beach, and Torrance - you can visit as many or as few gardens as you want.    Mother Nature’s Backyard in the Gardena Willows Wetland Preserve is one of the featured gardens.  Tickets are $12.00 per person and are available at SunFlower Farms (310-527-8371) 17609 S. Western Ave. Gardena 90248  and other South Bay locations or on-line.  For more information see: http://www.southbaywaterwisegardentour.com/

Plant of the Month (May) : Elegant Clarkia - Clarkia unguiculata

Mother Nature's Backyard with pink Elegant clarkia (Clarkia unguiculata)

May is often a delightful month.  Depending on rainfall and temperature, most of the early-flowering plants like California poppy, Baby blue-eyes, Purple clarkia and the lupines have completed their flowering.  Now the later-blooming wildflowers like Yarrow, Globe gilia and several of the Clarkias come into their own.  Despite a bit of rain, the heat and dry winds of the past month have taken a toll on our coastal spring wildflowers.  Fortunately, a few dependable Clarkia unguiculata still add their color to Mother Nature’s Backyard.

Elegant clarkia (also known as Mountain garland) is an annual wildflower that brightens California foothills and lowlands (below 5000 ft.). Finding it in the wild is always an unexpected treat! The species distribution ranges from Northern California into Baja California, Mexico;   locally it can be seen in the Santa Monica Mountains and on Santa Catalina Island. 

Like many of our annual wildflowers, Elegant clarkia grows in several different climatic zones including the coastal area, inland foothills and even some desert foothills.  Among the plant communities which include it are the Coastal Strand, Coastal Prairie, Valley Grassland, Oak Woodland and Chaparral.  It often grows on dry, open slopes but is also seen in the shade of trees and larger shrubs.  Its  ability to flower in partial shade makes Clarkia unguiculata particularly useful in the garden.

In form, Elegant clarkia is upright, many-branched and somewhat stiff-looking if planted in sun, slightly less so in shade.  Tip-pruning when the plants are small will increase branching, and some gardeners choose to do so.  The main stalk is often tinged with red or purple, particularly in a hot, dry spring.  The leaves are simple, lance-shaped to linear and sparsely spaced along the stems.  Both stems and leaves are hairless (glabrous).

Elegant clarkia is a mid- to late-spring bloomer in our area (coastal Southern California).  It may start flowering as early as the beginning of April or as late as June depending on temperature and rainfall.  Seeds may be serially planted, every two weeks, to extend the bloom season into summer.   If you’re willing to keep the seedlings watered, serial planting is a nice trick to provide brilliant color in the summer garden.

The flowers of Clarkia unguiculata are quite spectacular.  They range in color from white and pale pink through salmon orange, bright pink and magenta.  Local wild populations are either magenta-purple or white.   In local gardens, the color palette seems to change from year to year.  Whether this reflects differential drought tolerance – or differences in breeding success the year before – has yet to be determined for our area.   But the yearly variability is just one of the fascinating characteristics of this species;  you literally can’t predict the color scheme from year to year!

Like other Clarkias, the flowers of Elegant clarkia are in ‘parts of four’ reflecting their position in the family Onagraceae (Evening primrose or Willowherb family).  This family includes the popular native Evening primroses (Oenothera species), the fuschias, the Suncups (Camissonia species) and the Willowherbs (Epilobium species).   All of these are frequently used in local gardens.

Elegant clarkia (Clarkia unguiculata): flower buds and flower

Elegant clarkia’s flowers are large (to 1 inch) and solitary on short flowering stems that are most conspicuous before the buds open (above).  The four colorful petals have a unique diamond or spade-like shape with a narrow, claw-like base (see photo above).  In fact, the petals are so unique that the species name unguiculata describes them (it means ‘little red claw or nail’). Flowers have 8 stamens (four red-orange anthers; four white) and a fused stigma that’s usually longer than the anthers.   Flowers are pollinated by native bees but they also attract hummingbirds.

While the native form has four petals, plants from purchased seed sometimes exhibit double or even triple the usual number of flower parts (see above).  It’s unclear to us whether these ‘fancies’ represent hybrids with another Clarkia species or are due to genetic variability – even gene duplication – within the species.  Other Clarkias are known to form inter-species hybrids - as well as individuals with chromosomal duplications - so either explanation is possible.  We’ll have to await an answer to the mystery of the Elegant clarkia  ‘fancies’.

Elegant clarkia (Clarkia unguiculata): young seed capsules

The flowers open over the course of several weeks, beginning at the bottom of the stem and working upwards.  The period may be as short as several weeks to as long as 4-6 weeks with adequate moisture.  At end of season it’s not unusual to see ripe seed capsules and the final flowers on a single plant.   The seed pods (see above) are stout, grooved capsules that start green-red and are dry tan at maturity.  The sections of the dry mature pod open by curling back from the top, releasing hundreds of tiny seeds.   

Elegant Clarkia has been a garden favorite for hundreds of years.  Seeds were exported to England in the 1800’s and Elegant clarkia is still planted by European gardeners.  It is loved by California gardeners – and not just native plant gardeners – throughout the state.  Part of the popularity is due to the lovely flowers.  Unless one detests pink and purple, it’s difficult not to be captivated by them. 

 

Mixed wildflower planting: Madrona Marsh Nature Center, Torrance CA

 

Another reason is Clarkia unguiculata’s adaptability.  While local wild Clarkias grow in sandy, well-drained soils, this species does spectacularly in clays.  It has a wide pH tolerance (6.5-8.5) so can be grown in alkali soils.   It does well in full sun – but also flowers in the high shade of trees, on the east side of walls, etc.   It is particularly usefully for those challenging areas with a combination of full sun and shade; like Yarrow, it helps to bridge transitional zones with simplicity and grace.

Elegant clarkia seeds are best planted in late fall or early winter – right before a good rainstorm. In common with most annual wildflowers, Elegant clarkia needs good soil moisture during its growth period.  Seeds germinate after the winter rains commence and seedlings are vulnerable to dry soils.  Supplemental irrigation may be needed during prolonged winter dry spells.  Once plants begin to flower they are fairly drought tolerant. 

Like all wildflowers, plants need a dry period for proper seed development.  Start tapering off irrigation as seed pods begin to dry; then let the pods develop until they are dry and beginning to open.  You can either let plants reseed naturally or save seeds for next year.  The seeds are loved by birds, so we suggest you save some for next year’s planting.  Seed saving is simplicity itself.  Once the pods begin to open, uproot the plants and invert the whole plant into a large paper bag.  The pods will dry and open, releasing the seeds.   Store seeds in a paper envelop or glass jar in a cool place indoors.  That’s all there is to it!

 

Elegant clarkia (Clarkia unguiculata) adds color to the May garden:
'Garden of Dreams' Discovery Garden - CSU Dominguez Hills, Carson CA

 

Annual wildflowers like Elegant clarkia can be used in many ways in the garden.  While they are often combined with other native wildflowers, this is not the only possibility.  We heartily recommend Elegant clarkia as a filler plant in developing gardens.  The flowers add a spot of color and mask bare areas between the growing shrubs.   Just be sure to mulch lightly – or not at all – in the areas with wildflower seeds.  If you want to reserve areas for wildflowers, consider using a gravel mulch (see http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/07/understanding-mulches_23.html        for more on mulches).

 

Elegant clarkia (Clarkia unguiculata) with Birdseye-gila (Gilia tricolor; purple-white flowers),
California buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum; green foliage) and Catalina silverlace
 (Constancea nevinii; silver foliage) : Mother Nature's Backyard

We like combining Clarkias with Birds-eye and Globe gilias (see above).  The light-colored Birds-eye gilia often finishes blooming just as the other two are taking off.   Clarkia are excellent choices for the habitat garden, providing nectar and pollen (native bees & hummingbirds) and seeds for seed-eating birds like finches, sparrows and the like.   There’s nothing prettier than a container filled with Clarkias on a sunny or shady porch.   Consider them also for the vegetable garden.  They  attract pollinators and the seeds are edible, raw or parched.

Elegant clarkia makes a long-lasting cut flower and is often used in bouquets and floral arrangements.   It is wonderful massed – truly spectacular!    Don’t worry about thinning – the plants will do that themselves and massed plants will even out-compete the weeds.   If you let the plants re-seed they will naturalize where ever they find a compatible place.  They are easy to remove if inappropriate and you can even use both foliage and flowers for green and gold natural dyes.

We hope you’ve enjoyed the story and pictures – and will consider Elegant clarkia for your own garden.   It’s truly a California treasure!

 

For a gardening information sheet see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/gardening-sheet-clarkia-unguiculata

For more pictures of this plant see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/clarkia-unguiculata-web-show

 

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

Take a Child Outdoors for Earth Day

If you read this blog, you probably like being out-of-doors.  Chances are, your love of the natural world began early – when someone took you outside and shared their love of gardens, parks or wild places.  Childhood exposure to nature awakens something deep – our sense of connection with the earth and its creatures. 

A true sense of belonging - to a ecosystem greater than family or neighborhood - begins when we are young.  So does the feeling of serenity that many of us experience when out in nature.   Nature completes us, making us whole, centered, compassionate and more human.

So make a pledge this Earth Day: take a child outdoors in the next month.  It can be any child – your child/grandchild, niece or nephew, student, neighbor or some other child you know.  You don’t have to go far: your garden, a nearby park or natural area will do.  The place needn’t be large or fancy; it just needs to be outdoors.

Point out some interesting plants.  Watch birds or insects as they go about their day.   Explore the creatures that live in the soil or fallen leaves.  Watch clouds go by, rain fall or the sun shine.  Notice the patterns of the land.  Share a sense of wonder – of belonging to something bigger than ourselves.   Listen to the sound of the earth singing.

Earth Day reminds us each year to take time for the important things in life.   So, take a child outside for Earth Day.  It’s essential - they are the earth’s future.

Plant of the Month (April) : California coffeeberry - Frangula californica (Rhamnus californica)

California coffeeberry (Frangula californica): two year old plant in Mother Nature's Backyard

Most gardens, even those of modest size, need a shrub or two; and California natives can be a good choice.  Many are water-wise and most have interesting flowers, fruit or foliage.  Of importance to busy gardeners, many are also quite easy to maintain (once they’ve been coaxed to an attractive shape in adolescence).  Gardens in our area are continually enriched by their inclusion of native shrubs.

One point to be aware of is size.  Native shrubs come in all sizes – from small to very large.  Before choosing a shrub, seriously consider its mature size. Yes, it really will get that big – maybe even a little bigger.  And it will likely be difficult to keep it smaller.   Choose the right size shrub for your space; then you and your shrub will be happy for years to come.

California coffeeberry (Frangula californica; formerly Rhamnus californica) is one of the better native shrubs for the home garden.  The species itself is large – to 8-12 ft tall and about as wide under favorable conditions.  This is big, although it can be hedge-pruned to somewhat smaller if you’re willing to do the work.   Fortunately, there are several smaller cultivars (discussed below) which may be just right for your space and garden design.

Coffeeberries are members of the Buckthorn family (Rhamnaceae) which includes the Ceanothus, the Redberries (genus Rhamnus) and other plants more common to the sub-tropics and tropics.  The plants are known for their flowers, which grow in parts of 5 (occasionally 4) and have a distinctive star-like shape. Many of the  California species are used as garden shrubs.

California coffeeberry is native from southern Oregon to Baja California, Mexico.  It grows in the Santa Monica and San Gabriel Mountains of Los Angeles County, and even occurs in the foothills of Nevada and Arizona.  It’s most often found at lower elevations (below about 3500 ft.) but extends to 5000 ft in some locations.  In the northern parts of its range, Coffeeberry usually grows on drier slopes.  In warmer regions like S. California, look for it on north-facing slopes and in shady canyons, often near streams. 

Coffeeberries grow in areas that experience periodic fires.  They have specially adapted root-crowns that contain dormant buds.  These buds sprout after a fire (or after the plant is coppiced (cut down nearly to the ground) allowing them to recover quickly after a fire.   The post-burn growth rate can be amazingly fast!

There are several subspecies of California coffeeberry, including three from Los Angeles County.  The more common Frangula californica ssp. californica  has a statewide distribution in western California (including the northern California coast) and is the most common type sold in native plant nurseries. It’s well-loved by gardeners for its shiny, evergreen, medium-green foliage.  Subspecies californica grows in a number of plant communities including Chaparral, Coastal Sage Scrub, Coastal Strand, Mixed-evergreen Forest, Northern Coastal Sage Scrub, Redwood Forest and Central Oak Woodland.

Frangula californica ssp. tomentella  is found occasionally in the Santa Monica, San Gabriel and Tehachipi mountains as well as in California’s Central/Northern coastal foothills and those of the western Sierras.   The leaf color in this subspecies is an  attractive, matt (not glossy) blue-green; the leaves are usually more elongated and the undersides are densely hairy.   This subspecies is often available in nurseries, though it’s less common than subspecies californica.

The less widely distributed Frangula californica ssp. cuspidata grows in desert chaparral, desert scrub and woodlands of the eastern Sierra, Tehachapi, San Jacinto and Transverse mountain ranges of Central and Southern California.    This desert-adapted species also has leaves with short dense hairs (primarily on the underside) and a gray-green appearance.  It is occasionally offered by local native plant nurseries, particularly those that cater to clients from desert areas.

California coffeeberry (Frangula californica) at one and two years after planting as a 1-gallon plant

In this posting we’ll focus on Frangula californica ssp. californica, as it is routinely available at native plant nurseries and we have two of them in our mixed hedgerow in Mother Nature’s Backyard.  California coffeeberry is a large shrub or occasionally a small tree.   Under favorable conditions it can grow fairly quickly to 4-6 ft tall and wide, then more slowly to 8-12 ft.  The photo above shows one of our Coffeeberries at one and two years after planting as a one-gallon plant.   As can be seen, it has already developed a nice, rounded shape with very little pruning.

The leaves of Frangula californica ssp. californica are evergreen, simple and pleasant to the eye.  Leaves are 1 ½ to 4 inches long, alternate, and shiny above, with edges that may be straight or slightly serrated.  The leaf margins roll under slightly when the plant is drought stressed.  As seen in the photo below, new leaves are a very light green; older leaves become darker.   This shrub makes a nice green backdrop for colorful flowers and plants with light colored foliage. 

Coffeeberry is many-branched, forming a dense rounded form, particularly when clipped occasionally (by wildlife or gardeners).  The young bark is usually red-brown, becoming gray with age.  The dense growth habit makes it an excellent candidate for a hedge/hedgerow shrub or foundation planting. Plants reach their maximum size in 15-20 years.  In the wilds, plants are often long-lived – to at least several hundred years old.

 

Coffeeberries bloom in spring over much of their range.  In our area, they bloom as early as March and can continue into May.   The flowers are inconspicuous.  In fact the first thing you may notice is a cloud of pollinators swarming around them!  Coffeeberry flowers are perfect (contain both male and female organs), small (~ ¼ inch) and pale yellow-green to white (see photo above).  The flowers are in parts of 5, typical for the Buckthorn family.

Coffeeberries, like the Ceanothus, are insect pollinated.  They attract a great number and range of pollinators including European honey bees, native bees (usually the smaller species), pollinator flies and others.   The pollinators are a joy to watch – and the show goes on for 3-4 weeks.  In our experience, the pollinators are so focused on the flowers they pretty much ignore passing – and even photo snapping - humans. 

While Coffeeberry flowers are inconspicuous, their fruits are anything but!  Coffeeberries produce rounded, berry-like drupes (fleshy fruits with a stony pit) that are ¼ to ½ inch in diameter.  Fruits are green in late spring, turning to yellow, red and almost black through summer/fall as they ripen.  Fruits of several colors at the same time are common, making for quite a show!  Fruits contain two hard-coated seeds which resemble coffee beans (hence the common name).    Contrary to their appearance, they don’t make a great coffee substitute.

Although occasionally eaten by Native Californians, the fruits have strong laxative properties are not really edible for humans.   But birds - even animals - eat them with gusto.  Birds are the primary seed dispersers and they do a good job; in the wild, few seedlings develop near parent plants.  Robins, Finches, Towhees, Mockingbirds and Jays all eat the fruit.  In fact, one of the reasons we included Coffeeberry in our hedgerow was to attract these bird species. Plants begin producing at 2-3 years of age, so you’ll have fruits within several years of planting. 

Coffeeberry is quite adaptable to garden conditions.   It thrives in most local soils, from sandy to clay, as long as it’s watered properly.  It can be grown in full sun to part-shade and is fairly drought tolerant once established.   Coffeeberries, including the cultivars, are good choices when a part-shade tolerant shrub or groundcover is needed; for example under tall trees or to the east or north of large trees or walls. In our warmer S. California gardens, Coffeeberry is often at its best under such conditions.

Mature California coffeeberry (Frangula californica): Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden, Claremont, California

In our area, Coffeeberries benefit from occasional deep watering during summer (Water Zone 2 is probably best; see http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/04/water-wise-gardening-tip-save-water.html ).  Be sure that the soil is dry at a depth of 4 inches before watering – and water during a cooler spell, in early morning or late in the day.   Coffeeberries like an organic mulch (see  http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/07/understanding-mulches_23.html for more on mulches). 

Coffeeberries have a nice natural shape and appear pruned even without any pruning.  They can be shaped for hedging – just a light trimming during the growing season to create a semi-formal hedge.  The more open cultivars – like ‘Bonita Linda’ – can even be trimmed up to make an interesting small tree.  Of course the most common use for Coffeeberry is as a background or accent shrub in water-wise gardens.  It is a good alternative to commonly used non-native shrubs like Carissa, Cotoneaster, Elaeagnus angustifolia (Russian olive), Myoporum laetum (ngaio tree);  Ligustrum, Myoporum, Oleander, Photinia, Pittosporum, Raphiolepis and Xylosma.

Coffeeberries can be combined with other native shrubs that share similar water requirements.  Some good companion shrubs/trees include Chaparral whitethorn (Ceanothus leucodermis), Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia), Sourberry (Rhus trilobata) and the Redberries (Rhamnus crocea).  The more drought-tolerant cultivars – and the species – can even be grown under native oaks like coast live oak (Quercus agrifolia).

 

Several excellent cultivars are available.  The smallest of these is Rhamnus californica ‘Little Sur’, a very dense, compact (dwarf) shrub that grows only 3-4 ft tall and wide.  This is probably the best choice for smaller hedges and for containers.   It is particularly well suited to coastal areas.  Cultivars ‘Seaview’ and ‘Seaview Improved’ are very low-growing (to about 2 ft.) and spreading.  They make an interesting groundcover shrub.

 

 

Several cultivars are only slightly smaller than the species – but enough so to make them good garden candidates. Rhamnus californica 'Eve Case' is widely available in California native plant nurseries.   ‘Eve Case’ grows more slowly than the species, becoming 6-8 ft. tall at maturity, but more commonly about 6 ft. tall and wide.  It is very drought tolerant, does well in coastal gardens and is probably the most commonly garden Coffeeberry.  It has all the good attributes of the species and has been used in gardens since the 1970’s.

Rhamnus californica 'Leatherleaf' is a 6-8 ft cultivar with very dark green leaves and a mounded growth habit, becoming broader with age. It takes a bit more water and likes a little shade in our area.  Rhamnus californica 'Mound San Bruno' also has a mounded shape.  It grows to 4-6 ft tall and 8-15 ft. wide; it makes a good tall groundcover under trees and on north-facing slopes.  Both of these cultivars are less frequently available in Southern California nurseries.

Rhamnus californica 'Bonita Linda' is a large cultivar (8-10 ft tall and wide) with a more open growth habit and gray-green foliage.  It is used like the species – for large background shrub or as a screen or hedge.  It is probably the best candidate for pruning up into a small tree.   It does well in S. California gardens and can be watered several times a month in summer if desired.  It is commonly available in S. California native plant nurseries.

Native Californians used a preparation from the bark of California coffeeberry as a laxative.  It is very powerful and requires careful preparation and use.   While not well known as a dye plant, the foliage can be used to make a golden dye, which is more intense when plant materials are collected in fall. 

In summary, California coffeeberry is a wonderful shrub with great habitat potential.  It looks like a garden shrub, is evergreen and water-wise.  In addition to the species, there are cultivars that range in size from small to large.   We hope you’re inspired to consider this wonderful native shrub in your garden.  And do take a look at ours when you come to the garden.

 

For a gardening information sheet see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/frangula-californica

For more pictures of this plant see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/frangula-californica-web-show

Coffeeberry in MNBY - 2014 (2 years old)

 

Coffeeberry in MNBY - 2016 (4 years old)

 

Five years growth in Mother Nature's Backyard
California coffeeberry - Frangula californica

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com