Pruning Common Native Plants Used in South Bay Gardens
| 
Plant
  Species | 
Pruning
   | 
| 
Trees and Large Shrubs | |
| 
Manzanita 
(Arctostaphylos species | 
Summer (after blooming/fruiting): Prune
  as little as possible; removing branches for health reasons only is best practice | 
| 
Coyote Bush 
(Baccharis pilularis) | 
Winter:
  prune to shape if needed.  Start in  first year with low-growing forms.  Thin entire branches (for shaping) or remove up
  to 1/3 of branch length to encourage new growth | 
| 
Mule Fat
  (Baccharis salicifolia) | 
Fall/winter (main pruning): Thin
  entire branches (for shaping) or remove up to 1/3 of branch length to
  encourage new growth | 
| 
California Lilac 
(Ceanothus species) | 
Spring: deadhead
  to improve appearance if desired 
Summer: Best
  time for selectively
  prune branches back to trunk for shaping (after blooming ceases).  Can also prune to shape in late fall. | 
| 
Toyon 
(Heteromeles arbutifolia) | 
Summer (after blooming): Selectively
  prune to open foliage; remove suckers | 
| 
Rhamnus
  species (Coffeeberry; Redberries) | 
Summer:
  selectively prune out entire branches to shape    (if
  desired) | 
| 
Rhus species
  (Lemonadeberry; Sugar Bush; Laurel Sumac) | 
Spring:
  hedge-shear (if hedging) during active growth after flowering/fruiting 
Summer:
  see spring 
Fall: prune
  to shape as needed.  | 
| 
Matilija Poppy 
(Romneya coulteri) | 
Winter: Prune back entire plant to
  4-6 in. tall just prior to re-growth season | 
| 
Smaller Shrubs & Vines | |
| 
California
  Sagebrush 
(Artemisia
  californica) | 
Fall: Remove top ½ of branch
  length; do not cut into old wood. 
  For  ‘Canyon Gray’ remove
  central upright branches as they appear. | 
| 
California Encelia 
(Encelia californica) 
Also Goldenbushes (Hazardia, Isocoma), Gum Plants (Grindelia) | 
Summer:
  remove old seed heads if unsightly after birds have eaten seeds 
Fall:
  cut back to about 6-8” in late fall (after flowering for the Goldenbushes) | 
| 
Bush Monkeyflowers (Diplacus
  species) | 
Spring: Deadhead to improve
  appearance, plant vigor 
Fall: Cut back to 4-6 in. above
  old wood (leave 4-6 buds) | 
| 
Native shrubby Backwheats (Eriogonum
  species) | 
Fall/winter: Remove
  spent flower stalks; if plants are  woody/ragged cutting back to 2-4 inches may
  rejuvenate – but may kill plant.  For Giant Buckwheat/St. Catherine’s Lace
  just trim off spent flower stalks. | 
| 
Island Snapdragon 
(Gambelia/Galvezia speciosa) | 
Spring:
  tip-prune (pinch growing tips) for fullness 
Spring/Summer: Deadhead as flowers fade; promotes prolonged
  bloom.   
Winter:
  Can be cut back to 6 inches in late winter to promote lush foliage | 
| 
Native Honeysuckles (Lonicera
  species) | 
Fall:
  prune to shape in late fall/winter | 
| 
Currants &
  Gooseberries (Ribes species)  | 
Fall:
  Prune out weak/crossing branches when dormant.  If desired, prune to shape by cutting back
  to a bud pointing the desired direction. | 
| 
Sages 
(Salvia species except Salvia apiana) | 
Summer:
  may cut back branches to 3-4 sets of leaves after flowering to encourage a
  second bloom 
Fall:
  cut back branches to 3-4 sets of new leaves if not so pruned in summer 
White Sage (S. apiana) - cut
  back spent flower stems only | 
| 
Native Grapes (Vitis
  species) | 
Fall:
  prune/train in late fall when leaves have fallen | 
| 
Lilac Verbena 
(Verbena lilacina) | 
Year-round:  deadhead to improve appearance | 
| 
Sub-Shrubs (half-woody plants) and Perennials | |
| 
Milkweeds (Ascepias species | 
Fall:
  cut back to 2-3 inches | 
| 
Heucheras/Coral Bells | 
Fall/winter: 
  remove spent leaves; if plants have gotten too big,  dig up parent plant; carefully divide and replant
  daughter plants. | 
| 
Mint family groundcovers  
(Hummingbird
  Sage; Woodmint (Stachys); Wild Mint) | 
Spring:
  tip-prune if desired for fullness 
Fall:
  cut back to 4 inches in late fall | 
| 
Dudleya
  species | 
Spring/Summer: Deadhead
  to improve appearance, or later to provide seed for birds 
Fall: cut
  back dead flower stalks (if not done before) | 
| 
California Fuschia 
(Epilobium species) | 
Spring:
  tip-prune if desired for fullness 
Fall/Winter: cut back to 4 inches after blooming ceases | 
| 
Penstemons | 
Summer:
  Deadhead as flowers fade; promotes prolonged bloom.   
Fall:
  Remove spent flower stalks to ground after seeds are gone | 
| 
Sunflower family groundcovers (Coast Aster, Yarrow, Mugwort) | 
Fall: Mow or cut back to 2-4
  inches | 
| 
Grasses/ Grass-like Plants; Native
  bulbs/corms | |
| 
Cool-season bunch grasses (Festuca;
  Nasella; Calamagrostis;
   Leymus; Melica) | 
Summer/fall: rake out old dead leaves 
Fall: rejuvenate
  every 2-4 years by cutting back to 4-5 inches; if desired, divide
  clumps, making sure each clump has a good root ball | 
| 
Warm-season bunch grasses (Deer Grass; Alkali Saccaton; Purple
  three-awn) | 
Spring: rake
  out old dead leaves; rejuvenate every 2-4 years by cutting back to 4-5 inches | 
| 
Rushes & Sedges | 
Fall/winter:
  rake/clip out old dead leaves; rejuvenate every 2-4 years by cutting back to
  4-5 inches; if desired, divide clumps, making sure each clump has a good
  root ball | 
| 
Bulbs & Corms | 
Fall: Dig up
  every 2-3 years; scatter small bulbs/corms or plant in pots | 
A
few general notes on pruning native plants:
·        
Always
use sharp, clean pruners, saws, etc.
·        
Prune
for safety and plant heath (disease) as needed, any time of year
·        
For
large shrubs/trees: never prune off more than ¼ to 1/3 of the foliage – more
will stress the plant 
·        
Don’t
prune during excessive heat or when a spell of wet weather is predicted
·        
Go
slowly – the goal is well-pruned plants, not warp-speed pruning
·        
When
in doubt, don’t prune.  Come back another
day & re-evaluate.
 
 
Thanks so much for this article! It's been very helpful in my flowerbeds already this year. Why is it not good to prune before a spell of wet weather? I would think that it would be good to get the plant where you want it before it rains so that it uses the rain for the healthiest part of the plant instead of the dead, dry foliage you prune off. Thoughts?
ReplyDeleteGrace | http://www.coastwidetreeservices.com.au/Services.html
The reason not to prune during wet weather, at least in S. California, is to prevent the spread of fungal diseases. This is particularly so when a wet period is followed by warm weather. Fungal spores, spread during wet weather, enter via fresh cuts. Then the warm weather provides the perfect conditions for fungi to grow.
DeleteSo much information! This will be helpful when I begin to prune my plants. Thank you
ReplyDeleteFabulous pruning guude for SoCal native plants--I like the MB botanical guide too. Thank you SO much for sharing this, it's really helpful.
ReplyDelete