Plant of the Month (February) : California Poppy – Eschscholzia californica

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): Mother Nature's Garden of Health

One of the more impressive spring perennials is the California poppy (Eschscholzia californica).  With all the other spring-blooming treasures, we’ve yet to feature this native crowd-pleaser.  So we’ll remedy that this month.  The slightly tongue-tying scientific name is pronounced es-shuh-HOLES-ee-uh  cal-i-FOR-ni-cuh. The genus name honors Dr. Johann Friedrich Gustav von Eschscholtz (1793-1831), an Estonian surgeon and botanist with Russian expeditions to the California coast in the early 1800’s.

California poppy is the quintessential California plant; in fact, it’s the state flower.  It grows throughout much of the state, with the exception of the hottest deserts and high elevations.  It has always been an important player in plant communities all along the California coast.  Early explorers wrote of the ‘fields of gold’ on the coastal hillsides.   And California poppies, some started from seeds brought back long ago, brighten gardens throughout the world.

In Los Angeles County, California poppy grows on Catalina Island, in the Santa Monica Mountains, on the Palos Verdes peninsula, in the L.A. Basin (from the coast to the San Gabriel Mountains), in the San Gabriel Mountains and in the Antelope Valley. It was collected by Los Angeles County botanists as early as the 1850’s.   Specimens from all the major California plant collectors, from then to the present, reside in herbaria worldwide. 

California poppy is a member of a wide range of plant communities, from the higher elevation Yellow Pine, Red Fir and Lodgepole Forests, to the lower elevation Foothill Woodland, Chaparral, Valley Grassland, Northern Coastal Scrub and Coastal Prairie communities.  Although several regional sub-types have been proposed, all are currently lumped under the parent species. 

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): coastal form

The coastal form of the poppy – still sometimes called Eschscholzia californica ssp. californica or Eschscholzia californica ssp. maritima - is bright golden yellow with a yellow-orange center.  We still try to grow this form in our local gardens (and ruthlessly remove plants with ‘too orange’ flowers).  We encourage California gardeners to search out seed sources from their own area, to help keep the regional types from disappearing.

The more familiar ‘all orange’ form was originally found further inland in S. California.  Good examples of the inland form can be seen at the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve, west of Lancaster (Los Angeles County).   Check the wildflower hotline (http://theodorepayne.org/education/wildflower-hotline/) for what’s blooming, and where.

 

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): re-sprouting

California poppy is an herbaceous perennial, although it is grown as an annual wildflower in places with cold winters or very hot summers.  Locally, plants die back to a stout woody stem/root with hot weather, remaining dormant until the cool, moist weather of late fall/winter. A summer rainstorm (or a little summer water) will sometimes trick them into emerging early – if the temperatures are not too hot.  Individual plants can live many years; we know of one in our personal garden that is 35 years and going strong.

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): old plant

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): growth habit

 

Many readers will be familiar with the appearance of California poppy.  It’s a low-growing plant, the foliage never more than 12 inches (30 cm) tall and about as wide.  The overall shape is loosely mounded. The leaves are pale gray-green to medium green and are finely dissected (see photo below).  The plant has a delicate, refined appearance.  That’s probably one reason why gardeners like it.

 

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): leaves
 

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): flower bud

Many gardeners are also familiar with California poppy’s flowers, which are usually around 2 inches (5 cm.) wide on a slender stem.  The flowers are simple yet uniquely beautiful; a fitting symbol of our California natural heritage.  They have four delicate, fan-shaped petals.  The petals are rolled into a cylindrical bud (above) and unfurl as the flower emerges, forming an open, bowl-shaped flower.  Flowers open in the day and close-up at dusk (or on cloudy or windy days).  One Spanish name for this plant is ‘dormidera’ or ‘the sleepy one’ – perhaps in reference to the floral closure.

 

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): flower unrolling

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): flower fully open

The sexual parts of the flower are conspicuous above the petals.  The female parts (pistil) are centrally located, with a stigma (top part) divided (see below).  The stamens are several to many, around the stigma.  After pollination, the sexual parts wither, and the developing ovary becomes more prominent (below). The petals ultimately fall off, leaving the seed pod.

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): floral parts

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): floral parts

 

The floral architecture is relatively unspecialized and typical of the Poppy family (Papaveraceae).   Flowers produce little nectar and are virtually unscented.  Their pollinators are a wide variety of insects, from beetles to pollinator flies, bees and others.  While there are beetles, we mostly see bees visiting the flowers in our gardens.  It’s fun to watch them – whether European Honey Bees or native species – scrambling around in the floral bowl.  The procedure’s a bit ungainly, but the bees seem to pick up (and distribute) plenty of pollen (below).



California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): bees

California poppies usually produce lots of seeds.  The seeds are small, rounded and brown when ripe.  You’ll know when the seeds are ripe: the dry pods spring open with explosive force, spreading the seeds.   If you want to collect seeds, wait until pods become a purple-brown, almost ready to open.  Snip off the pods and place them in a (well-closed) paper bag in a cool place. After they finish drying, separate the seeds from the dry pod pieces; then store seeds in a labeled glass jar or envelope in a cool, dark place.  

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica):
 seed pods

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): old pod sections

California poppies are good naturalizers, as long as a garden is not heavily mulched.   You can let the plants go to seed – or collect seeds and give them as gifts, if you’ve already got too many plants.  The seedlings are very distinctive (see below) and easy to pull up when young.  If happy, a few plants will produce offspring throughout a garden in a year or two.  If you need to pull up some young plants (below) you can always dry them for use medicinally.

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): seedlings

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): young plants

Eschscholzia californica can be grown in most soils – sandy to clay.  It does like sun (at least half-day) and either bare soil, thin leaf mulch or inorganic (gravel) mulch. A heavy layer of bark mulch will prevent seeds from sprouting (they need light). Sprinkle seeds out in garden beds with the fall rains (or in spring in colder climates). Seedlings are very susceptible to drying out (a good way to limit their spread).  But plants (even last year’s plants) are very drought tolerant.  California poppies have a stout orange taproot, allowing them to access deep water.  In a ‘normal’ year, they may need no supplemental water.  But in a dry California winter, plants need watering every 2-3 weeks, if rains don’t keep the soils moist. 

We like to let our plants gradually dry out after blooming slows down – usually about the end of April in our part of S. California.    Plants will die back to the ground.  After plants have gone to seed, cut the dead leaves and stems back for a neater appearance.  That’s really about all there is to it, since plants get along fine with little to no summer water and no fertilizer.

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): in garden

So why include California poppies in your garden?  A better question is ‘why not’? They are our state flower.   You can start them inexpensively from seed.  They make a good filler between plants or when a new garden is getting started. And they naturalize, making them an excellent investment over time.

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): good filler plant

They provide patches of golden accent, at a time when days may be gray and rainy.  They look absolutely glorious with annual wildflowers, grasses and perennials.  Since they are native to much of California, you can combine them with your own local native palette, creating a truly authentic regional garden.  And pollinators and seed-eating birds will thank you for your thoughtfulness.

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): with
 local native plants, Madrona Marsh Nature Center



California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): with
Arroyo lupine (Lupinus succulentus)

We love to pair the gold of poppies with the blues and purples of Lupines, Blue-eyed grass, the Gilias and Phacelias.  We get so many complements on these combinations; you may want to use them in your garden as well.  And, of course, you can always find a place for California poppy in your herb or medicinal garden. 

 



California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): in Mother Nature's
 Garden of Health

 

California poppy seeds can be used in any recipe calling for poppy seeds.  The entire plant has long been used medicinally as well.  Like all poppies, Eschscholzia californica produces chemicals with sedative properties.  In the California poppy, these chemicals are mild and apparently not habit-forming.  In old times, an infusion made from the whole plant was used to calm colicky babies and induce sleep in babies and children.  The juice was applied directly for toothache. 

A cup of California poppy tea, made from dried plants and sweetened a bit, is a gentle sleep aid when taken half an hour before bed time (we know – we’ve tried it). It is reported to also help reduce anxiety, relieve headaches and calm tense muscles and nerves.  It may prove to be an important treatment plant for the young and elderly alike. But as with any herbal medicine, care should be taken when using Eschscholzia californica.  

Adequate clinical trials to assess dosing, safety and effectiveness of California poppy are not yet available. The only way to determine these important properties, in a wide range of people, is through carefully controlled and conducted medical studies.  Until we have clear, scientific-based evidence, California poppy should be taken with caution, and only after consulting a medical practitioner.  For more on the medicinal uses and cautions, see the references below.

In summary, California poppy is a plant that belongs in California gardens.  It’s our state flower and we’d love to see entire neighborhoods blanketed in yellow, as they were in times gone by. This plant is an important part of our natural heritage; an easy way to celebrate the place we call home.   And we welcome non-California gardeners to enjoy a bit of California gold in their own gardens.   We’re always happy to share the wealth!

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): with Blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium bellum)

 

For a gardening information sheet see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/gardening-sheet-eschscholzia-californica

For more pictures of this plant see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/eschscholzia-californica-web-show

For plant information sheets on other native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html

 

__________

1.       https://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-104-california%20poppy.aspx?activeingredientid=104&

2.       https://examine.com/supplements/eschscholzia-californica/

3.       http://www.herbal-supplements-guide.com/california-poppy-seed.html

4.       https://healthywildandfree.com/california-poppy-health-benefits/

5.       https://www.herbal-supplement-resource.com/california-poppy-herb.html

 

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

Plant of the Month (April) : Fendler’s meadow-rue – Thalictrum fendleri

Fendler's meadow-rue (Thalictrum fendleri): in Mother Nature's Garden of Health

 

We love the California spring, when local perennials complement the spring-blooming shrubs.  In fact, we wish more gardeners included herbaceous natives in their garden plans.  One of the more interesting, Fendler’s meadow-rue, is blooming right now in Mother Nature’s Garden of Health.  The scientific name for this species is pronounced thal-ICK-trum  FEND-ler-eye.

Fendler’s meadowrue is an herbaceous perennial in the family Ranunculaceae (the Buttercup family).  This family, which includes genera like Ranunculus, Delphinium, Clematis, Aquilegia, Anemone, Hellebore and Aconitum, contains mostly herbaceous perennials and annuals.  Many have lovely flowers and are well-known garden plants.  Many also produce chemicals toxic to humans and animals, some of which are used in small doses as medicinals.

The genus Thalictrum includes plants from temperate regions on every continent except Australia.  The Meadow-rues (also called Meadow rues or Meadowrues) usually grow in damp, shady places.  Species and cultivars are widely used in gardens, both for their leafy foliage and their interesting flowers. 

Four Thalictrum species are native to California; two (Thalictrum sparsiflorum and T. fendleri) are native to S. California.  Thalictrum sparsiflorum, the Sparse-flowered meadow-rue, is endemic the Sierras and the San Bernardino Mountains.  Thalictrum fendleri is more widespread, growing primarily in Yellow Pine, Red Fir, Lodgepole Pine and Subalpine Forests throughout the state.  

Fendler's meadow-rue (Thalictrum fendleri): young plant

The two varieties, Thalictrum fendleri var. fendleri and Thalictrum fendleri var. polycarpum, both grow in Los Angeles County.  T. fendleri var. fendleri can still be found in the San Gabriel Mountains, while var. polycarpum grows in both the San Gabriels and the Santa Monica Mountains.  You may have seen them on hikes, growing on shady slopes or along streams in riparian woodlands.  Variety fendleri, the more widespread variety, grows throughout the western U.S. from Montana and Wyoming to Texas and northern Mexico; var. polycarpum can also be found in Nevada, Oregon, Utah and Baja California, Mexico.

Some taxonomists argue that T. fendleri var. polycarpum is better considered a separate species (Thalictrum polycarpum) [1, 2].   The specimen in our Garden of Health would then be that species; and some nurseries sell the plant under this name.  Whichever is correct, T. fendleri var. polycarpum tends to grow in slightly sunnier, drier locations, in Mixed Evergreen Forest and Oak Woodland communities.[3]     This variety can further be distinguished by its lack of foliage hairs and pink female flowers (those of var. fendleri are greenish white).

Fendler's meadow-rue (Thalictrum fendleri): plant

 

Fendler’s meadow-rue is an herbaceous perennial, with foliage mostly growing in a mounded clump 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) tall and 1-3 feet wide.  The flowering stalks are taller – 4 or 5 feet (1 meter or more) and have sparse foliage. The entire plant dies back (to the ground) in the dry days of late summer and fall, emerging again with the winter rains.

 

Meadow-rue’s foliage is one of its strong points, at least from a gardener’s perspective.   The foliage is quite similar to that of its close cousin, the Western columbine (Aquilegia Formosa; see above).  The leaves are medium-green to blue-green and have long, slender petioles (leaf stems).  The leaves are several-times compound, with rounded, irregularly dissected, terminal leaflets (see below).  The foliage is reminiscent of Maidenhair fern (but larger) or a delicate rendering of the Columbine.

Fendler's meadow-rue (Thalictrum fendleri): foliage

Fendler's meadow-rue (Thalictrum fendleri): young foliage

 

The young foliage is utterly enchanting to observe.  The young leaves, which are a bright yellow-green, emerge in spring fully formed but compacted.  As the petioles lengthen, the leaves unfurl to their final size.  The petioles often have a red-purple tinge, adding to the foliage spectacle.  Preformed leaves are found in some plants growing in cold climates. This trait protects delicate leaves but allows plants to leaf out quickly, once the weather warms up.   We wonder whether pre-formed leaves developed as a similar adaptation in our mountain-growing Meadow-rues.

Fendler's meadow-rue (Thalictrum fendleri): male flowers

Fendler’s meadow-rue is usually dioecious, with male and female flowers on separate plants.  Plants with some bisexual flowers sometimes also occur in this species. The flowers of both sexes grow on tall (3-6 feet; 1-2 meters), slender flowering stalks above the foliage. The only way to tell the plants apart is when they’re flowering.

Male flowers are the showier (above).  Neither male nor female flowers have petals (they do have small, green-white sepals).  But the male flowers have cascading yellow or purple stamens with prominent anthers (producing the yellow pollen).   The resulting flower cluster is unique and attractive.  When most gardeners describe Thalictrum fendleri’s unusual flowers, they are thinking of the male flowers.

Fendler's meadow-rue (Thalictrum fendleri): female flowers

 

Female flowers (above) also grow in clusters of 10-20 along a flowering stalk.  The female flowers are simple affairs, with a single, immature (green) fruit beneath the styles (female sex organs). Each fruit contains a single seed – an unusual situation in the plant world.  In T. fendleri var. polycarpum, the styles are medium to bright pink; in var. fendleri, they are green-white. 

Given the dangling anthers and simple flowers, it’s not surprising to learn that Thalictrum fendleri is a wind pollinated species [4].  The Meadow-rues are an interesting genus, with some members being insect pollinated and others wind-pollinated.

Why might separate male and female flowers – and wind pollination – have developed from the more common bisexual, animal pollinated condition of the Angiosperms (flowering plants)?  Those are questions that plant biologists are just beginning to seriously tackle.  And it’s genera like Thalictrum that can shed light on the genetic and environmental factors associated with the development of sexual differentiation and wind pollination.  For more on this exciting story see references 5-7, below.

Fendler's meadow-rue (Thalictrum fendleri): with other
shade-loving perennials.  Mother Nature's Garden of Health.

 

Being a woodland species, Fendler’s meadow-rue prefers part-shade to quite shady conditions.  It does well with morning sun or in the dappled shade under trees.  It’s not particular about soil texture; we’ve grown it in very sandy as well as clay soils.  It has a wide range of acceptable soil pH (5.0-8.0) and is fine with organic mulches.  As a woodland/riparian woodland species, it can also be grown in soils with higher organic content than many of our local natives prefer.

Fendler’s meadow-rue is actually quite drought tolerant, but will remain green well into summer with occasional to near-regular water.  Dress with a modest amount of organic mulch and plants will remain happy and disease-free.  The only problem we’ve had in our Garden of Health is wind damage to the delicate flowering stalks.  If you live in a windy area, you might want to consider a protected part of the garden. 

Fendler's meadow-rue (Thalictrum fendleri):
with Heuchera and native strawberries

 

Introduced into the horticultural trade by Theodore Payne [8], Fendler’s meadow-rue adds woodland charm to any shady garden.  It works well with the native ferns and other shade-adapted perennials like Western columbine, Solanum xanti, Douglas’ iris, wild strawberries and the Heucheras.  It’s often used under oaks, Blue elderberry and other trees. Other gardeners use it in moist places like rain gardens or shady swales.

 

This species makes a number of interesting chemicals, some of which are toxic to humans and animals.  No part of the plant should be ingested.  Native Californians made an infusion of the leaves that was wiped on the forehead for headaches.  A poultice of the foliage was applied for sprains.  In all areas where this plant grows, people were aware of its toxicity, and used it only sparingly – and always externally.

Fendler's meadow-rue (Thalictrum fendleri):
home garden, Redondo Beach CA.

 

In summary, Thalictrum fendleri is an interesting plant in an interesting genus.  While it produces toxic chemicals, so do many plants routinely included in gardens, including Delphiniums, Angel’s trumpet, Azaleas, Coral trees, Autumn crocus, Flowering tobacco and Hydrangea. Used with respect, this plant adds seasonal charm to local gardens.  If you’ve got a shady spot, it might be just the plant you need.

Fendler's meadow-rue (Thalictrum fendleri): Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden, Claremont, CA.

 

For a gardening information sheet see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/gardening-sheet-thalictrum-fendleri

For more pictures of this plant see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/thalictrum-fendleri-web-show

For plant information sheets on other native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html

_____________________________

1. http://www.smmflowers.org/mobile/PDF-species/Thalictrum_polycarpum_UCLA_SantaMonicas.pdf
2. http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=1&taxon_id=233501272
3. http://www.calflora.org/cgi-bin/species_query.cgi?where-taxon=Thalictrum+fendleri+var.+polycarpum
4. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1442-1984.2004.00103.x/full
5. http://www.botany.wisc.edu/waller/PDFs/Steven.Waller.2007.pdf
6. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2701749/
7. https://oup.silverchair-cdn.com/oup/backfile/Content_public/Journal/mbe/30/8/10.1093/molbev/mst101/3/mst101.pdf?Expires=1491660526&Signature=OjeXvZqCcW7H5Qz4NEKkckoTNDEYkz3Yw2iGHz9kMa0V4~6ng7oY-mGi-J4GsAgKhhy95vOBm4HI6My18vnbuGY78GR0PE6mUJjxo9fRBrIG7cPTy6tYS~tRUwk2d80FI2Hnp-yBe87DYBUJIVpOBsBB1u8dl0RWzX8FSAZjhB0Y0CEd5r4wBqpWn2cuJ1LGuki46zRAy~uvumZ1I9WiUaqhaF62cMqGWC8kGMpEXkLCm2iazH0Za41bxf2NBGqzDZilZPsDhFenysTIdR4cWzTbRiXu3E219D8nxIEVm8mxSrTVaX97enjeO-bDVByUoCJ~I1auoj8lPIp3Di36Cw__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAIUCZBIA4LVPAVW3Q
8. http://www.theodorepayne.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Thalictrum_fendleri_var._polycarpum

 

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

 

Plant of the Month (March) : Wild hyacinth (Blue dicks) – Dichelostemma capitatum

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - Mother Nature's Backyard: Gardena, California

One of the true joys of spring is the unfolding of the spring ‘bulbs’.  We spoke of gardening with California native bulbs, corms and rhizomes last month: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html.  One of the earliest – and easiest – of the local species is the Wild hyacinth (Dichelostemma capitatum).   The scientific name is pronounced dick (dike)-el-AH-stem-uh (or dick-el-oh-STEM-uh) cap-ih-TAY-tum.

Dichelostemma capitatum is known by several common names including Wild hyacinth, Blue dicks, Bluedicks, Common Brodiaea, Purpleheads and School bells.  It is one of the more common corm-producing perennials in California, with a range that stretches from Oregon to Arizona and New Mexico, and south to Baja California and Sonora, Mexico.  Its elevation range is also quite unusual: from sea level to 7000 ft. (2,100 m.) in California.   In fact, it can be found growing in nearly all California counties. 

Currant taxonomy usually places the genus Dichelostemma in the family Themidaceae (the Brodiaea family), along with Bloomeria, Brodiaea, Muilla and Triteleia – all perennials from corms.  But some taxonomists still include this genus in the family Lilliaceae (the Lily family) (1).   The species has two accepted sub-species: the Sparse-flowered blue dicks (Dichelostemma capitatum ssp. pauciflorum) and the more common Dichelostemma capitatum ssp. capitatum.

The Sparse-flowered blue dicks grows in deserts and desert scrub of Central and Southern California, as well as in Utah, New Mexico and northern Mexico.  Dichelostemma capitatum ssp. capitatum, the widespread subspecies, is native to western Los Angeles County and the Channel Islands, as well as much of California. It grows in a wide variety of plant communities including coastal strand, coastal prairie, mixed evergreen forest, chaparral, valley grassland, coniferous forests, oak woodlands, redwood forests, montane scree and on the fringe of coastal salt marshes and vernal pools.  The plants are more common in sunny openings and after a disturbance (fire; landslide; etc.). 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - leaves

 

Wild hyacinth is a relatively small, herbaceous perennial with fleshy, strap-like leaves.  The foliage is low – perhaps 1 ft. tall or less – and leaves are usually sprawling and somewhat twisted.  The leaves of older corms may be nearly an inch (2-3 cm.) wide and a foot or more long.  Younger plants have leaves that are almost grass-like.  You can see leaves for a range of plant sizes in the photo above.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - plants

 

In warm-winter areas, the leaves begin to sprout in winter, after the rains begin in earnest.  We often see them first in December in our part of S. California. After rapidly growing, the leaves begin to yellow at their tips just before the plants begin to flower.  Flowering usually begins sometime in February (but may be as early as January or as late as March) in the lowlands of western S. California; it’s as late as May or even June in colder parts of the state.  Flowering often commences after a period of warm dry weather.

Unlike some native ‘bulbs’, everything about Dichelostemma capitatum is slightly twisted or wavy – from the leaves to the flower stalks.  In fact, that’s one characteristic that differentiates Dichelostemma from the Brodiaeas, which tend to have straight stalks.  The flower cluster is also tighter than that of most native Brodiaeas.

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -
leaves and flower stalks are often twisted or 'wavy'

 

The leaves of Blue dicks are the ‘power plants’ that produce food to be stored underground in the dry season.  That’s why it’s important to let the leaves shrivel and dry of their own accord – after flowering is done and the weather turns warm and dry.  The energy for next year’s growth is stored in an underground corm – a thickened part of the stalk whose function is food storage. 

The corm of Dichelostemma capitatum looks something like a garlic bulb.  We’ve grown this plant for years – can’t believe we’ve never photographed the corms.  For a good photo, see reference 2, below.  When you dig up the corm, there often are offsets (cormels or cormlets), which are immature corms.  These may be attached to the parent corm or loose.   These will become mature, flowering plants in 3-4 years.

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)
 flower cluster

 

Wild hyacinth has small, old-fashioned-looking flowers. Each plant sends up a single flowering stalk, with flowers in a ball-like cluster at the tip.  Since not all the flowers open at once, a single plant is usually in bloom for several weeks.  And if you have corms in areas with different amounts of light, those in the sunnier areas will often bloom first.     

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -
 close-up of flower

 

The flowers are ½ an inch across (or perhaps a little more), with six petals that form an open, bell-shaped flower. The petals spread wider as the flower matures over a week or so.  The usual flower color for our area is violet-purple, though the species may have white, pink or lavender flowers on occasion.   One unusual feature is the ring of pale, petal-like appendages that surround the six fertile stamens (see above).

Western Tiger Swallowtail on Wild Hyacinth
 (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

 

Umber Skipper butterfly on Wild Hyacinth
 (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

 

While the flowers have little scent (at least to us), they do attract hummingbirds and butterflies.  The latter range in size from Tiger Swallowtails and Monarchs to the early-flying Skippers (for more on these butterflies see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2016/07/insect-postings-mother-natures-backyard.html).  There’s something utterly enchanting about a butterfly nectaring on the delicate flowers!

After flowering, Bluedicks flowers produce a number of small, black, irregularly-shaped seeds.  You’ll know when the seeds are ready; the seed capsule becomes dry and papery and the seeds start to fall out, of their own accord.  Bluedicks are easy to grow from seed.  If you want them to naturalize, simply scatter the seed  and rough up the soil a bit.  If you’re really pressed for time, just let Mother Nature do the work.  You can also collect seed, store in a cool dry place, then plant it with the winter rains.  For more on growing corms from seed see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html.

Wild hyacinth also reproduces vegetatively, producing corm offsets (called cormlets or cormels).  You won’t see these unless you dig them up.  But they will produce new plants the next year.  New plants have grass-like leaves and don’t flower until about their 3^rd year.  We’ll get some good pictures of seeds and cormels this spring – guess we’ve just been lazy about photographing this common species.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -
 easy to grow in pots

 

Bluedicks is one of the easiest native ‘bulbs’ to grow.  In fact, we heartily recommend it - even to those who’ve never gardened with bulbs in their life.  This species can be grown in just about any soil – in the ground or in containers.   It likes sun, but does fine under winter-deciduous trees and shrubs.  It can even be grown in dappled or bright shade – though the plants will be somewhat leggy.

The only real trick is the watering.  Like all native ‘bulbs’, Bluedicks needs adequate water in winter and early spring.  In a very dry winter, you may need to supply it.  Once plants begin to flower, or if leaves begin to yellow, it’s time to taper off the water.  This process happens naturally in a ‘usual’ S. California spring. 

But ‘usual’ is rapidly become unusual, and we’re often forced to begin supplemental irrigation in spring.  So just mimic the old days, and water your Bluedicks progressively less as weather warms up.  Once flowering ceases, really taper off; then stop altogether for summer and fall.  Bluedicks can take very occasional summer water, but need a summer/fall rest.  Corms that get regular summer water will rot.

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -
Madrona Marsh Nature Center, Torrance CA

 

So, how to achieve summer dry conditions?  Easiest, perhaps, is to grow Dichelostemma in containers that can be stored in a cool, dry place during the dormant season.  If you have a dry area of the garden – perhaps where you grow annual wildflowers and native grasses – Bluedicks would do well there.  Under water-wise trees that are winter-deciduous is another possibility.  But anyplace in the garden that you can allow to dry out between deep waterings can support this garden bulb.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -
Garden of Dreams Discovery Garden, CSU Dominguez Hills

 

If you’re worried about drainage, plant your bulbs along a warm wall, pathway or around rocks or boulders.  Mother Nature’s Backyard has an abundance of ‘urbanite’ (recycled paving concrete chunks; Mother Nature’s Backyard was a former dump site for construction debris and paving from the old Carrell speedway, once located near the site).  We try to use these materials creatively in the garden.  Not only are they useful for bulb-growing, this ‘rubble’ reminds us that native plants can grow in even the most challenging of soils.  Trust us – the soil in Mother Nature’s Backyard contains more debris than we’ve ever seen in an urban garden soil!  Sobering – but encouraging!!!

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)
 benefits from warm 'urbanite' - Mother Nature's Backyard

 

Like most native ‘bulbs’, wild hyacinth benefits from digging up the corms occasionally and thinning them (either by replanting or preparing a tasty delicacy – see below).  In the old days, wild animals and Native Californians dug up, scattered and replanted native ‘bulbs’ every few years. The digging also served to aerate the soil.  The disturbance helped the bulbs remain productive, and modern gardens benefit from similar practices (3).   Other than that, you don’t need to amend the soil – whatever you have will work just fine.   We add a layer of new potting mix atop our potted bulbs each fall.  Alternatively, give a dose of ½ strength fertilizer when the plants begin to grow.

Chicken wire protects native bulbs from hungry critters

 

If you have gophers, consider planting your bulbs inside a small ‘cage’ made of chicken wire.  This will keep the bulbs safe and won’t prevent them from growing normally.  If you grow bulbs in pots, we suggest making a chicken wire insert, cut to fit the pot, and laid atop the potting medium after planting.  You can cover the chicken wire with mulch if you like.  This will keep out squirrels, skunks and other pesky urban critters on the prowl for a tasty treat. 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)
with annual lupine: Madrona Marsh Native Plant Garden

 

Bluedicks is charming along walkways in spring, paired with annual lupines, California poppies and other native delights.  The purple flowers pair well with the yellows of Goldfields (Lasthena species) and Tidytips (Layia species).  Bulbs can be grown among the native bunchgrasses.  And they tuck in nicely around native shrubs.  We like to plant them close to pathways and seating areas – places where visitors can stop and admire them and their pollinators.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)
in spring garden: Madrona Marsh Native Plant Garden

 

The flowers are edible; use them raw as decoration in salads and on desserts.  But the most important edible portion is the corm.  Bluedicks corms were dug by the hundreds by native Californians.  In fact, bulb patches were managed as a food crop and revisited yearly; in some areas, particular patches were managed and harvested by individual families. These corms were an important source of starch in traditional diets.  Corms were usually harvested in the spring.

The corms can be eaten raw or cooked (4). They can be dried for storage or ground into flour to be used in baked goods or as a thicken agent.  They can be fried, boiled, roasted or baked.  Their flavor is mild and slightly sweet; the slower the cooking time, the sweeter the flavor. 

In summary, Dichelostemma capitatum is a great example of a California native geophyte (perennial plant with underground food storage organ).  It’s an easy choice for even the novice bulb gardener.  It comes back reliably, year after year; and it naturalizes, making it a good bargain as well.  The flowers are pretty and attract hummingbirds and butterflies. It’s a wonderful link to our natural heritage in many parts of California.  And the corms are an edible delicacy, worthy of the traditional and modern palette.  So, what are you waiting for?

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)
Mother Nature's Backyard

 

For a gardening information sheet see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/gardening-sheet-dichelostemma-capitatum

For more pictures of this plant see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/dichelostemma-capitatum-web-show

For plant information sheets on other native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html

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1. https://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=DICAC5
2. http://encinitasnatives.blogspot.com/2015_11_01_archive.html
3. MK Anderson, and DL Rowney, Edible Plant Dichelostemma capitatum: Its Vegetative Reproduction Response to Different Indigenous Harvesting Regimes in California: Restoration Ecology [Restor. Ecol.], vol. 7, no. 3, pp. 231-240
4. Charles W. Kane. Southern California Food Plants: Wild Edibles of the Valleys, Foothills, Coast, and Beyond. Lincoln Town Press,  2013.

 

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com