Outdoor
water use accounts for 50-60% of most home water bills. That can add up in a hurry, especially in dry
years. One good way to economize is to apply
the principles of Water Zone Gardening - grouping plants by their water
needs and watering accordingly. This allows you to save water in
some areas of the garden (the dry zones) while giving each plant the water it
needs to thrive.
Our gardening philosophy here at Mother Nature’s Backyard
is a practical one: work with what you have.
It’s much easier to treat your garden’s characteristics as assets – positive
attributes - instead of
limitations. Your garden’s physical
assets (sun; shade; wind; soil characteristics; etc.) are the canvas on which
you paint your garden. Your garden’s
assets give your garden its character
and shape. They are also what keep our ‘excessive tendencies’’
in line (yes, we all have those tendencies – we’re human, after all)! So, view the need to reduce your garden’s
water use in a positive light. Water
Zone gardening can re-make your garden into a more interesting and inviting
place for your family (and many other creatures) to enjoy.
Water Zone
gardening involves conscious choices on how to ‘spend’ your water budget. For example, you may choose to spend more
water on your vegetable garden or fruit trees and less on your lawn. It also requires you to study and work with
the conditions in your yard. Water Zone gardening involves choosing the right
plants – and watering methods – for each Water Zone. Water Zone gardening is not difficult, but it
does require some thought.
We use three basic Water
Zones in Mother Nature’s Backyard. Each is
slightly different in appearance- each is interesting and beautiful.
Southern
California gardens have three basic Water
Zones. You will likely want to use
all three in your garden.
 |
| Typical Zone 1 planting - Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden |
Zone 1: Little/no irrigation.
|
Description:
Most water from rainwater. Many native plants, including shrubs, will be summer-dormant; ornamental
grasses turn golden-brown. Annual
wildflowers & bulbs disappear.
Examples: Non-planted areas (patios;
walkways); naturally dry areas or shady areas that remain moist for long
periods; areas planted with low-water ornamental grasses & wildflowers;
Watering: Plants mostly get by on rainwater; winter
irrigation only during prolonged dry spells (4 or more weeks with no rain). Established plants watered only 1-2 times
in summer.
Suitable plants: Many S. California native plants
from western L.A. county (once established) can be treated as Zone 1 or Zone
2 plants. Some examples would include native shrub species like Salvia, Artemisia, Encelia & Eriogonum as well as some large shrubs and trees. Also plants from desert areas.
Best watering methods: Easily
watered with garden hose; water deeply.
|
 |
| Western L.A. county native plants managed as Zone 2 plants 'Garden of Dreams' CSU Dominguez Hills |
Zone 2: Occasional water
|
Description: Plants receive occasional summer
water; winter watering in prolonged dry spells. Plants may be summer-dormant
or evergreen. Plants range from perennials to large shrubs & trees.
Examples: Water-wise groundcovers/lawns; many
water-wise gardens (including butterfly gardens, scent gardens, native plant
gardens); established trees and large shrubs (even non-native).
Suitable plants: Most plants labeled ‘water-wise’ including
many California natives (note: will likely need more water during first year
or two until plants are established). Local native plants (from western L.A.
county) are particularly well-suited. Popular native plants from local
foothills and the central & northern California coast also do well in
Zone 2. Examples would be species of Ceanothus, Manzanita, Baccharis, Ribes and
many others.
Best watering methods: Water using low-flow sprinklers,
soaker hose/soaker tape, micro-sprinklers, drip irrigation or garden hose.
Water early morning or late in the day.
|
 |
| Conventional home garden - Water Zone 3 |
Zone 3: Regular water
|
Description: Regular water; soils are moist/damp
year-round. Plants may be evergreen
or seasonal.
Examples: Sod lawns, rose gardens, vegetable gardens; plants around garden
ponds; rain garden plants (if kept wet year-round).
Watering: Plants are watered from spring (when soils dry out) to
fall (when rains saturate the soil).
Suitable plants: many common nursery plants – most
will be labeled as needing ‘regular water’. Also native plants from wet places: riparian, wetland and pond/lakeshore plants.
Best watering methods: Water with multi-stream rotator
sprinklers or shrub heads in the early morning.
|
Getting Started
The key to efficient water use is working with the conditions in your yard. Take a good close look your entire yard. Often the easiest place to start defining
Water Zones is with areas that are naturally dry. Are there places that seem to always dry out or
are difficult to water? Consider working with
Mother Nature by converting these areas to Water Zone 1 or 2. You can plant them with drought tolerant plants
and decrease your overall water use. You
may even discover areas that could require no water at all. For example, you might convert a
difficult-to-water area into a patio, sitting area or utility area. Use bricks set in sand or a gravel mulch as hardscape
and you now have an area that needs no water and infiltrates rainwater as well.
Do you like/have plants that require regular water? The next
easiest areas to define are those that require regular water (Water Zone 3
areas). You may have a rose garden or
other special plants that need water. Or
you may want to plant a vegetable garden.
By grouping plants you’ll be able
to provide Zone 3 plants with the water they need in an efficient manner. You can focus intensive watering efforts on
these areas – and choose an irrigation system that fits your needs. You
might consider planting Zone 3 plants next to a lawn, near a water feature or
at the bottom of a slope where they get a little extra water. Learn to work with Mother Nature! Use
naturally wet areas of the garden – like shady areas – to your advantage.
If possible, you’ll want to locate Zone 3 areas away from Zone 1
areas. The water needs of Zone 1 and 3 plants
are very different, so it’s best to separate them by areas of Zone 2 plants or
hardscape (non-planted areas). Water
Zone 2 is probably the most interesting Water Zone in most gardens. Many exotic,
fragrant and beautiful local native plants (from western L.A. county) can be treated as either Zone 1 or Zone 2. In
nature, these plants get by on rainwater alone.
In the garden, they look better with occasional summer water. Just be sure to let the soil dry out in Zone 2
areas between deep waterings. Many
plants from California’s central and northern coast are most comfortable in
Water Zone 2 or between Zones 2 and 3 (Zone 2-3). They
do well in transition areas between Water Zones 2 and 3.
Get to know your plants better. Many nurseries, including native
plant nurseries, provide information about water needs for individual plants (read
the labels carefully). Consider the
water needs of each plant before you purchase it. Visit water-wise and native plant gardens for
inspiration and information. Use the
Water Zone information on our garden’s plant signs to help you choose plants
that are right for your garden.
In
summary, the trick to saving water is to view your
yard as containing several different ‘gardens’, each with its own water
requirements. Using Water Zone principles
makes this possible. Creating areas that get ‘less than regular’ water allows you
to use plants that actually require
less water. You can spend your ‘water budget’ on the
plants that matter most to your family, save money and create a more interesting garden – all at the same time!
You can e-mail your Water Zone questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com
No comments:
Post a Comment